markhyams - Jul 19, 2007 1:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2007
SW Chute
Loose, but worth the effort, plus camping in Palisade Basin was amazing. Pics here.
graham - Jul 14, 2007 3:12 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007
Traverse from Starlight
Marty and I did the T-bolt to North Pal traverse from South Lake TH; ~15 hrs CTC. Got pushed off of North Pal by lightening ~1pm; otherwise another great day in the Sierras with great company.
SkydiveKen - Jul 1, 2007 4:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2007
Summit for Someone
A four day trip with SMI as part of Summit for Someone fund raising climb. First night at third lake. Second night at Palisade glacier. AM start up the U notch. Crossed the Bergschrund on the far right. Snow turned to ice about half way up the notch where we were able to climb on the rocks. Managed some "old school" class 3 to the summit. Beautiful day with a bit of wind. Got back to high camp by 4PM. Hiked out on the forth day.
sierramtngoat - Jun 12, 2007 3:35 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007
Route Climbed: U-Notch + Clyde Variation
I climbed the U-notch from Palisade Glacier with my friend Dan after flying over the Sierra in his Cessna; what an experience! The bergschrund is passable on the right, but it's on ice, not snow; we placed some pro on the right and used the rock a little to get pass the steepest parts. Also, the "Clyde Variation" does not start 40-50 ft. below the U-Notch as described, it's more like 15; the beginning open book is not class 3, it's easily class 4. We debated if this was even the correct route at first because open book (more like a chimney) was not trivial; however, the remaining moves around the corner were fun class 3/4.
Dave S - Jun 1, 2007 2:35 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2007
Traverse from Starlight
Final stop of the day. Headed down the U-Notch back to camp. The Palisades are incredible!!!
MelbaToast - May 6, 2007 6:26 pm Date Climbed: May 5, 2007
Been A Long Time
It was a gorgeous weekend. Second Lake was about 60 percent frozen. I used to backpack here with my family when you could drive right up to the trailhead and drop folks off. Hasn't changed much but that was always summer. Right now it looks like fall even though it's supposed to be spring. Beautiful hike!
finally,
made it up the u-notch the year before, my second day on crampons, ever, didn't summit- slid a good hundred feet trying some dumb-ass, greenhorn stunt on descent- I learned how to self-arrest that day. Tried again the next year going up some west face thing but it got 'smoky' and we got lost and ... later that year we went up the west face to the chimney variation. I should have brought my diaper, I was afeared. But we survived, KB and I. We covted the Milk's Bottle of Starlight, but didn't have it in us that day, maybe tomorrow...
I hiked in from South Lake TH on Saturday morning and summitted Polemonium and North Pal. After descending back to camp below Thunderbolt Pass on Sat night, I attempted Thunderbolt on Sunday. I made it to the register but didn't feel up to free soloing the T-bolt summit block in boots with no rope. I made it back out to South Lake before dark and hitched a ride in to Bishop. I spent the rest of the evening in a major thunderstorm, first waiting for my friend to pick me up, then during the long drive back to LA.
Swesome climbing here! 4th classed down to the lookers right of the 5.2 chimneys. Not too bad but lured us into trying to 4th class Polemonium. I dpn't recommendt that.
"Hell Yeah, Baby!" I said with a whoop as I mantled onto the summit. Great well-worth-the-extra-push-to-get-there summit.
Mike N - Jul 9, 2006 9:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006
U-Notch
Phenomenal climb. Took 12 hours camp to camp! Getting over bergscrund was fine but it was starting to break up. Snow was good in UNotch in AM but was loose and slippery on the way down. Got to chimney around 10-10:30. 2 pitches of what I would call 5.6-5.7. Just a a few moves may be that way but it is definitely not 5.2 (ladder) as it has been called. Then was tricky trying to find the best route to traverse. We belayed from a little spot that overlooked the snowfield on the east face. Up over the slabs, around a tower, on the ridge, and then down on the 3rd-4th class slopes on the west side of the ridge. I would not describe this as a "bowl" but more like the top of a gully or couloir. Find the easiest way down to some sandy paths that will lead to the base of the summit block. You will be looking up at the summit from this point. Aim for the summit along 4th class blocks and small slabs. Up through a small chimney will get you on top of the summit block.
For the descent...From there about 25 feet to the west is a rap station that will get you to the bottom of the 4th class stuff. Walk a little further down, cross the sandy paths and retrace steps to top of chimney. 2 raps then to the Unotch. We rapped the Unotch because the snow was loose and slippery at this point. It took a lot of rappels with 1 rope! This seemed to take a long time. Careful over the bergschrund.
Rick Kent - Jul 5, 2006 11:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2006
U-Notch (Glacier Side) + Chimney
Climbed North Pal & Polemonium with Courtney P. Had fun leading the chimney and 3 pitches up to Polemonium (not the typical route apparently). No ice present in the couloir below the U-Notch -- just soft snow. After Polemonium we went on toward Sill and descended via Glacier Notch (a fairly long day).
The snowline on the approach hike is just below Sam Mack Meadow. You can hike snow from there to the glacier or find the trail on the ridge to the left (looking up). We camped on dry ground 30-40 minutes below the glacier. The U-Notch bergshrund was passable on the right by a ramp, but will not last much longer. We soloed soft snow steps in the couloir, then roped up for the fun, chimney pitches to the summit ridge, where we simul-climbed to the summit. Arrived at 10:45 AM. Our plans to traverse to Starlight Peak were hampered by a party of 3 ahead of us, so we descended to the notch and climbed Polemonium instead. Arrived back at camp at 6:00 PM and hiked out - whew! A great trip with perfect weather in the incomparable High Sierra.
Nice climb. Snow was a bit soft in the couloir. Chimney was fun. Fun scrambling to the highpoint. Did Polemonium Peak afterward. (June 06)
plume - Jun 27, 2006 1:41 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006
U-Notch
Honeymoon trip. Perfect weather, perfect climb.
mthilgard13 - Jun 1, 2006 3:55 am Date Climbed: May 28, 2006
Perfect Spring Climb
Calm day, with a foot of powder up the U Notch. Climbed to the top of the Chimney, but ran out of time...wow, that traverse needs time with snow. I would use protection with snow as well.
kevin trieu - May 19, 2006 10:27 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2006
North Palisade via N-Notch & Chimney
What a climb. 5/14 ended to be a 20 hour day starting at 4:00am at just behind the lake to the summit at 11:30am and back to the car at Midnight. yeah!!!
Second attempt on this one. Climbed it the year before with Matt G. and Dave D., only to get turned back by a sinus infection that reacted badly to altitude. Ouch. Camped high on the moraine and crossed the 'schrund of the U-notch to gain the rock wall on the right side. 3-4 pitches of 5.6 climbing put us on the slopes below the upper snow field. Awesome climb.
Downclimbed and rapped the route
Route Climbed: SW Couloir+Chimney Variation - Descended Clyde Variation Date Climbed: October 1, 2005
Fun climb, and the wind and blowing snow definitely made conditions more difficult than expected.
For those who want my want to try climbing the Chimney variation on a 30m rope - don't do it! Its not long enough unless you don't mind simul-climbing a lot.
Descending the Clyde Variation was very straightforward, even with no prior planning to use the route.
markhyams - Jul 19, 2007 1:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2007
SW ChuteLoose, but worth the effort, plus camping in Palisade Basin was amazing. Pics here.
graham - Jul 14, 2007 3:12 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007
Traverse from StarlightMarty and I did the T-bolt to North Pal traverse from South Lake TH; ~15 hrs CTC. Got pushed off of North Pal by lightening ~1pm; otherwise another great day in the Sierras with great company.
SkydiveKen - Jul 1, 2007 4:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2007
Summit for SomeoneA four day trip with SMI as part of Summit for Someone fund raising climb. First night at third lake. Second night at Palisade glacier. AM start up the U notch. Crossed the Bergschrund on the far right. Snow turned to ice about half way up the notch where we were able to climb on the rocks. Managed some "old school" class 3 to the summit. Beautiful day with a bit of wind. Got back to high camp by 4PM. Hiked out on the forth day.
summit for someone climb pictures
sierramtngoat - Jun 12, 2007 3:35 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007
Route Climbed: U-Notch + Clyde VariationI climbed the U-notch from Palisade Glacier with my friend Dan after flying over the Sierra in his Cessna; what an experience! The bergschrund is passable on the right, but it's on ice, not snow; we placed some pro on the right and used the rock a little to get pass the steepest parts. Also, the "Clyde Variation" does not start 40-50 ft. below the U-Notch as described, it's more like 15; the beginning open book is not class 3, it's easily class 4. We debated if this was even the correct route at first because open book (more like a chimney) was not trivial; however, the remaining moves around the corner were fun class 3/4.
Dave S - Jun 1, 2007 2:35 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2007
Traverse from StarlightFinal stop of the day. Headed down the U-Notch back to camp. The Palisades are incredible!!!
MelbaToast - May 6, 2007 6:26 pm Date Climbed: May 5, 2007
Been A Long TimeIt was a gorgeous weekend. Second Lake was about 60 percent frozen. I used to backpack here with my family when you could drive right up to the trailhead and drop folks off. Hasn't changed much but that was always summer. Right now it looks like fall even though it's supposed to be spring. Beautiful hike!
yaknjorgl - May 2, 2007 2:39 am
third time's a charmfinally,
made it up the u-notch the year before, my second day on crampons, ever, didn't summit- slid a good hundred feet trying some dumb-ass, greenhorn stunt on descent- I learned how to self-arrest that day. Tried again the next year going up some west face thing but it got 'smoky' and we got lost and ... later that year we went up the west face to the chimney variation. I should have brought my diaper, I was afeared. But we survived, KB and I. We covted the Milk's Bottle of Starlight, but didn't have it in us that day, maybe tomorrow...
atavist - Oct 1, 2006 10:44 pm
first palisade adventureI hiked in from South Lake TH on Saturday morning and summitted Polemonium and North Pal. After descending back to camp below Thunderbolt Pass on Sat night, I attempted Thunderbolt on Sunday. I made it to the register but didn't feel up to free soloing the T-bolt summit block in boots with no rope. I made it back out to South Lake before dark and hitched a ride in to Bishop. I spent the rest of the evening in a major thunderstorm, first waiting for my friend to pick me up, then during the long drive back to LA.
seth@LOKI - Jul 26, 2006 8:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2003
The Coolest Peak ever.Swesome climbing here! 4th classed down to the lookers right of the 5.2 chimneys. Not too bad but lured us into trying to 4th class Polemonium. I dpn't recommendt that.
mekwise - Jul 10, 2006 9:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006
U Notch-Chimney Var"Hell Yeah, Baby!" I said with a whoop as I mantled onto the summit. Great well-worth-the-extra-push-to-get-there summit.
Mike N - Jul 9, 2006 9:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006
U-NotchPhenomenal climb. Took 12 hours camp to camp! Getting over bergscrund was fine but it was starting to break up. Snow was good in UNotch in AM but was loose and slippery on the way down. Got to chimney around 10-10:30. 2 pitches of what I would call 5.6-5.7. Just a a few moves may be that way but it is definitely not 5.2 (ladder) as it has been called. Then was tricky trying to find the best route to traverse. We belayed from a little spot that overlooked the snowfield on the east face. Up over the slabs, around a tower, on the ridge, and then down on the 3rd-4th class slopes on the west side of the ridge. I would not describe this as a "bowl" but more like the top of a gully or couloir. Find the easiest way down to some sandy paths that will lead to the base of the summit block. You will be looking up at the summit from this point. Aim for the summit along 4th class blocks and small slabs. Up through a small chimney will get you on top of the summit block.
For the descent...From there about 25 feet to the west is a rap station that will get you to the bottom of the 4th class stuff. Walk a little further down, cross the sandy paths and retrace steps to top of chimney. 2 raps then to the Unotch. We rapped the Unotch because the snow was loose and slippery at this point. It took a lot of rappels with 1 rope! This seemed to take a long time. Careful over the bergschrund.
Rick Kent - Jul 5, 2006 11:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2006
U-Notch (Glacier Side) + ChimneyClimbed North Pal & Polemonium with Courtney P. Had fun leading the chimney and 3 pitches up to Polemonium (not the typical route apparently). No ice present in the couloir below the U-Notch -- just soft snow. After Polemonium we went on toward Sill and descended via Glacier Notch (a fairly long day).
ghoulwe2 - Jul 3, 2006 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006
North Palisade & Polemonium PeakThe snowline on the approach hike is just below Sam Mack Meadow. You can hike snow from there to the glacier or find the trail on the ridge to the left (looking up). We camped on dry ground 30-40 minutes below the glacier. The U-Notch bergshrund was passable on the right by a ramp, but will not last much longer. We soloed soft snow steps in the couloir, then roped up for the fun, chimney pitches to the summit ridge, where we simul-climbed to the summit. Arrived at 10:45 AM. Our plans to traverse to Starlight Peak were hampered by a party of 3 ahead of us, so we descended to the notch and climbed Polemonium instead. Arrived back at camp at 6:00 PM and hiked out - whew! A great trip with perfect weather in the incomparable High Sierra.
cp0915 - Jul 2, 2006 4:21 pm
U-Notch Couloir & Chimney VariationNice climb. Snow was a bit soft in the couloir. Chimney was fun. Fun scrambling to the highpoint. Did Polemonium Peak afterward. (June 06)
plume - Jun 27, 2006 1:41 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006
U-NotchHoneymoon trip. Perfect weather, perfect climb.
mthilgard13 - Jun 1, 2006 3:55 am Date Climbed: May 28, 2006
Perfect Spring ClimbCalm day, with a foot of powder up the U Notch. Climbed to the top of the Chimney, but ran out of time...wow, that traverse needs time with snow. I would use protection with snow as well.
kevin trieu - May 19, 2006 10:27 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2006
North Palisade via N-Notch & ChimneyWhat a climb. 5/14 ended to be a 20 hour day starting at 4:00am at just behind the lake to the summit at 11:30am and back to the car at Midnight. yeah!!!
bajaandy - Mar 9, 2006 4:21 pm
Route: Northeast Buttress, Grade II, 5.6Second attempt on this one. Climbed it the year before with Matt G. and Dave D., only to get turned back by a sinus infection that reacted badly to altitude. Ouch. Camped high on the moraine and crossed the 'schrund of the U-notch to gain the rock wall on the right side. 3-4 pitches of 5.6 climbing put us on the slopes below the upper snow field. Awesome climb.
Downclimbed and rapped the route
PellucidWombat - Dec 16, 2005 9:51 pm
Route Climbed: SW Couloir+Chimney Variation - Descended Clyde Variation Date Climbed: October 1, 2005Fun climb, and the wind and blowing snow definitely made conditions more difficult than expected.
For those who want my want to try climbing the Chimney variation on a 30m rope - don't do it! Its not long enough unless you don't mind simul-climbing a lot.
Descending the Clyde Variation was very straightforward, even with no prior planning to use the route.
tdoughty - Oct 16, 2005 2:02 pm
Route Climbed: Clyde Couloir Date Climbed: JUne 1976Climbed as a present to myself for graduating from High School. With Ray Barnett