Fabio and I have spent several hours scratching our head at what route we actually took. It's clear we were on the same exact line until you belayed near the Barb Flake. We both took photos from right here (this was the start of our third roped pitch). However Fabio belayed at the top of this pitch quite a bit to the right of where you guys belayed near the Barbed Flake.
In this photo we thought that thing right above you was "the block" and I went around it on the right, I belayed from a spacious ledge above it. By doing this I think I avoided your hand traverse.
Now the confusing part, I am pretty sure I took a video clip (my pan of the Northeast Face) from the exact spot where you took this photo. However we never climbed anything even closely resembling an off-width crack to get there. Our route was more like a gentle ramp that gradually tapered and steepend until it ended on the Northeat Face (at least that's my recollection). It's from a point somewhere near where this photo was taken that we *began* our traverse across the Northeast Face. During this traverse we passed a fixed tri-cam, did you?
Anyway, it was a really fun route. One of these days we'll have to get out together. One of the problems is that you've already done a lot of the things I still want to do ;-) (i.e. this one, Blitzen Ridge, Ellingwood Arete, etc)
My current take is that we followed the alternate route for Pitch 7 described in Gillett's guidebook. Otherwise, we followed Roach's description. The final crack, which all of us did, is not in Roach's description, though. It looks like it can be avoided on the right. Besides, Roach says that there are 300 feet of scrambling from the end of the roped climbing to the summit, but from the top of the final crack there is significantly less.
lisae - Aug 1, 2006 8:13 pm - Voted 10/10
NiceI love the video. (and the ones on your other trip reports) They make me want to climb!
Andy - Aug 1, 2006 8:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: NiceThanks. I have a lot of fun making them :-)
Andy - Aug 2, 2006 7:37 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Knocking Them OutThanks Jared.
Fabio and I have spent several hours scratching our head at what route we actually took. It's clear we were on the same exact line until you belayed near the Barb Flake. We both took photos from right here (this was the start of our third roped pitch). However Fabio belayed at the top of this pitch quite a bit to the right of where you guys belayed near the Barbed Flake.
In this photo we thought that thing right above you was "the block" and I went around it on the right, I belayed from a spacious ledge above it. By doing this I think I avoided your hand traverse.
Now the confusing part, I am pretty sure I took a video clip (my pan of the Northeast Face) from the exact spot where you took this photo. However we never climbed anything even closely resembling an off-width crack to get there. Our route was more like a gentle ramp that gradually tapered and steepend until it ended on the Northeat Face (at least that's my recollection). It's from a point somewhere near where this photo was taken that we *began* our traverse across the Northeast Face. During this traverse we passed a fixed tri-cam, did you?
Anyway, it was a really fun route. One of these days we'll have to get out together. One of the problems is that you've already done a lot of the things I still want to do ;-) (i.e. this one, Blitzen Ridge, Ellingwood Arete, etc)
brenta - Aug 2, 2006 8:12 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Knocking Them OutMy current take is that we followed the alternate route for Pitch 7 described in Gillett's guidebook. Otherwise, we followed Roach's description. The final crack, which all of us did, is not in Roach's description, though. It looks like it can be avoided on the right. Besides, Roach says that there are 300 feet of scrambling from the end of the roped climbing to the summit, but from the top of the final crack there is significantly less.
Regardless of variations, it's an awesome climb.
Mountain Jim - Aug 2, 2006 3:40 pm - Voted 10/10
Good Job !!!It's one of the best alpine routes ever, for just having fun moving over the rock.
Haliku - Aug 4, 2006 3:39 pm - Voted 10/10
Congrats!Great job and write up! This route is high on my list...
sshankle - Aug 4, 2006 3:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Son of a B!Nice.
I am jealous...REALLY jealous.
alex_vega - Aug 4, 2006 5:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Great..trip report and fantastic video.Nice job!
Cheers, Alex
spectreman - Aug 20, 2008 10:34 pm - Voted 9/10
Good Jobvery nice! The Spearhead is one of my favorite pieces of granite anywhere.