Dow Williams - Oct 26, 2012 8:46 pm Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2012
Rabbit Ears
I like its nickname better, from the west, really does look like rabbit ears. Radek's page inspired me...did a video of my jump as well (he inserted a link to one)...will cherish the memory. Not bad really, but deserves a reputation...not a move any of us are use to doing, jumping over the abyss. Best advice, don't jump very hard...not as much energy needed as your heart thinks there is. The second pitch was really good. I thought the start of it was definitely in the 5.10 minus range as well...particulary off the deck like that. The rest is cruiser but fun. Make sure to ignore Bloom's directions in his new guidebook...we used his approach beta (circumvent the town to the east) thinking he knew something new about the neighborhood's stance on the climb...wrong....use Radek's much more direct approach for sure. Did Big Country Spire right after, that was the bushwhack from hell for a chossy climb. Not recommended. Bloom gives it two stars (out of three) in his new book, but got to wonder if he climbed it or just took the FAers word for it. It was not worth the cats claw or optional huge hike around up the wash to get to. Made for a long day doing both spires...they are not as close or easy to connect as you might think.
Shirley & I climbed it via standard route. The .9 section on P2 was hard for the grade (but hardness is short lived). Rest was fun. Jump across is something else...I stemmed & threw for a hold on the other side (I'm 6'7"...don't count on doing that if you're shorter).
Dow Williams - Oct 26, 2012 8:46 pm Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2012
Rabbit EarsI like its nickname better, from the west, really does look like rabbit ears. Radek's page inspired me...did a video of my jump as well (he inserted a link to one)...will cherish the memory. Not bad really, but deserves a reputation...not a move any of us are use to doing, jumping over the abyss. Best advice, don't jump very hard...not as much energy needed as your heart thinks there is. The second pitch was really good. I thought the start of it was definitely in the 5.10 minus range as well...particulary off the deck like that. The rest is cruiser but fun. Make sure to ignore Bloom's directions in his new guidebook...we used his approach beta (circumvent the town to the east) thinking he knew something new about the neighborhood's stance on the climb...wrong....use Radek's much more direct approach for sure. Did Big Country Spire right after, that was the bushwhack from hell for a chossy climb. Not recommended. Bloom gives it two stars (out of three) in his new book, but got to wonder if he climbed it or just took the FAers word for it. It was not worth the cats claw or optional huge hike around up the wash to get to. Made for a long day doing both spires...they are not as close or easy to connect as you might think.
rpc - Apr 11, 2007 5:28 pm
Fun.Shirley & I climbed it via standard route. The .9 section on P2 was hard for the grade (but hardness is short lived). Rest was fun. Jump across is something else...I stemmed & threw for a hold on the other side (I'm 6'7"...don't count on doing that if you're shorter).