Refugio Hermanos Carrel fully open (52 beds), since last year. $15/night for a bed, $30 with meals. Whymper Refugio partially open, café open during the day for visitors, the almost finished dormitory was opened for our group - it will have approx 24beds when completed.
Whymper Refugio only of use when Normal Route is safe (requires snow to minimise rockfall risk), otherwise Carrel Refugio is better for taking alternative route. Only 900m distance/200m elevation between the two Refugios, max 30minute walk for anyone acclimatised.
Both refugios are run by Andean Adventures. Was told no need to book in low season, but expect them to fill up in November/December/January.
Our summit bid (March 9th 2016) was ruined by a lightning storm :(
Completed a summit on May 25th of Chimborazo. There are really only two summits to Chimborazo: Ventimilla (6267m, 20562ft), and the Whymper summit (6310m, 20702ft). Most people only climb the Ventimilla because although the two summits are only a few hundred feet apart, altitude sickness and/or bad snows conditions between the two summits can make that additional very short trip take several extra hours.
As for how to climb the mountain, there are several guide companies to choose from. I am not endorsing any of them, I will just share my experience as kindly as I can.
I only got quotes from 4 companies:
American Alpine Institute ($2680 for a 10 day excursion, about $1300 to just climb Chimbo);
Ecuador Eco Adventures (guy named Wlady runs the company, ecuadorecoadventure@gmail.com and it was $760 for Carihuairazo and Chimbo);
Andean Adventures (Run by John, andeannadventures@gmail.com less than $400);
Tierra Zero Tours (Guillermo, tierrazerotours@hotmail.com
about $470).
I ended up using Ecuador Eco Adventures for the first attempt on May 14th. I will not bad mouth them, but they turned out to be a bad bet. Although I got mountain time, they are not run by an experienced mountaineer and did not understand the mountain conditions well enough to get you to the top and there is some sneaky stuff they did (but they gladly took my money anyways).
I was not deterred, and made the second attempt with Andean Adventures. Turns out in recent years of ice melt, the normal route has become extremely dangerous due to rock fall, especially in high wind, and so is only used rarely. There is an alternate route from the Carrel Refugio that takes a bit longer, but has a higher success rate and is safer. As a result of this alternate route, Whymper hut is not used as often, and Carrel Refugio is the main lodging. Andean Adventures is the company that runs the Refugios in country. They are very professional, and always have a guide on Chimborazo. As a result they understand the mountain better than any of the others from outside the area.
I got to Riobamba from Quito once using a rideshare taxi (works well if you know Spanish, costs $20 each way, takes 4.5hrs). The second time I got to Riobamba using the bus from Quitumbe, $4.70, and easy to do even if you dont speak spanish "AutoBus Directo Riobamba, Pronto!". Andean Adventures picked me up at the bus stop and took me to the Refugio (standard for guide companies to include). I did almost get mugged on the bus ride, so be diligent during all of the stops the bus makes.
Earthquake did not seriously effect mountain routes.
Acclimatize with one of the other glaciated volcanoes in the area. I recommend Pichincha Ruca (no guide needed, easy access from Quito), and then Cayambe (2hrs from Quito, just hire a guide when you get there).
I climbed Chimborazo with Andean Adventures on Jan 27-28, 2017. I cannot recommend them enough! The owner, John, is very professional and straight-forward about every detail. I enjoyed talking with him and felt comfortable that I was choosing the right company to climb with. Their office is in Riobamba.
This was one of the highlights of my trip. We got to the Veintimilla Summit at 4:45am, a little too early for the sunrise, but I was not complaining! I was just happy to make it to the top!
The mountain is beautiful. It is very big, and you realize this when you see it for the first time. If you are considering going to see this mountain (or make a summit attempt) I say go for it!
Andean Adventures is the best company to climb with. Why? For one, they operate the refuges on the mountain, and always have a guide above 4800M. They are the first response if an accident happens, so their guides know the mountain very well. It was the 421st time summitting for my guide when I did my hike.
All in all, a special place and really quite a sight to see.
January 2018 Summit Attempt: Snow too dangerous NOBODY got past 19,500 feet. Whymper Refuge is CLOSED
Some updates: Whymper Refuge is closed. The lower refuge was open and was the nicest climbing refuge we have ever stayed (indoor toilets, running water, electricity, comfortable beds, and much quieter than the Cotopaxi Refuge because the ceiling are lower). The food was great but there are no lockers. We attempted the summit on the night of January 11, 2018. No one got higher than around 19,500 feet because the snow was too dangerous. A couple days later, the snow was fine and people did summit. We used Andes Climbing, based in Machachi. This (and the other mountains we climbed) was a difficult mountain for me, who is not skilled in rock climbing (my son and husband are, and it was easier for them). Be sure to use a reputable guide. On Cotopaxi, we saw a very UNPROFESSIONAL guide taking a Korean man up. Thankfully, he was not hurt.
I'm planning a trip to Quito in late October. I would like to do both Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
I would spend a few days in Quito and then do Pichincha Ruca, then a rest day, then two days for Cotopaxi, a rest day, and then two days for Chimborazo.
Does that itinerary seem feasible? Is four days in Quito and Pichincha Ruca enough to acclimate for Cotopaxi and then Chimborazo?
Any recommendations for guides for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?
Hello!
I'm planning a similar trip with a friend of mine. We've hired a guide and are sort of in the discovery phase / beta gathering ourselves. We will be arriving in Quito on October 9th and have until the 18th though we plan on staying in Ecuador until the 25th. Our main goal is Chimborazo, but we also plan to attempt Cotopaxi. Our guide says that our itinerary will look something like this: https://cotopaxi-travel.com/ecuador-climb-cotopaxi-chimborazo-8days-trip.php feel free to message me if you have any questions or if you want to team up.
I'm curious what happened to the people in the posts from 2018. I wonder if they attempted and or summited these mountains. In any case, I did just summit these mountains. I did Cotopaxi Jan 19 then Chimborazo Jan. 23-24, 2021.
IMPORTANT: As of this post, both the Carrell and Whymper Refugios are CLOSED and you will not be able to sleep there. From what I gather from the guides, there's some sort of dispute with who owns or operates it. Conversely Refugio Jose Ribas on Cotopaxi is open. That, I was surprised about. I arrived in Ecuador with the assumption that refugio was closed.
Back on Chimborazo, on Saturdays it seems you can get some things from the kitchen inside the Carrell Refugio and the bathrooms were open the Saturday I was there. I spent most of the day Friday and until about 2 pm Saturday hanging around the Refugio. I had several odd experiences during that time and I camped to the right of the Carrell Refugio. Walk to the right of the building and you will see campsites ready for tents. I slept a lot and prepared for the climb the next day. The weather was terrible. Rain and sleet froze overnight and turned my tent into a chocolate-coated ice cream you get from Dairy Queen.
As far as climbing the mountain, on Saturday I went up to high camp at 17,350 or whatever and setup my tent until midnight and we made a 5-hour dash to the summit. It was cold as F the last 1,000 feet. Even with a new pair of insulated Black Diamond Gortex gloves (I had purchased after my hands froze on Cotopaxi) my hands froze.
We left camp too early then climbed pretty quickly. But the last 700 feet was slower and tough. We cruised the section past the rock cliffs before El Castillo comes up and joins the ridge. We blew past several of the parties who left about 15 minutes before us and never saw them again. Turns out they didn't make it much further. You can see who's climbed a mountain in technical mountaineering gear and who hasn't when it comes to these types of sections or on the descent. Anyways, we slowed down after that and the higher we got, the exponentially colder it became. At one point I took my gloves off my right hand and stuck it in my pants pocket. When I did that, I was able to regain some of the feeling and that told me that while my hand was damn cold and going toward frostbite, I had time and had caught it early enough and so far, was able to mitigate it.
I powered on and we still got to the summit too early. 5:15 in the morning. It was pitch black and the clouds were on us. Quickly figuring out we couldn't see anything and the sun wasn't coming up for another hour-plus, and not wanting a repeat of Cotopaxi, where we climbed through a storm, we decided not to hangout and we went back down.
The descent was uneventful and the storm never materialized. By the time I reached camp, my hands were tingling but heading the right direction. As as the other parties stumbled back, several of the guides commented on how the cold had come in so fiercely, while taking off their gloves to inspect their fingers. It turns out we got a cold weather front that rolled in for about three hours and the precipitation had held off. But the air was so wet that the cold was penetrating. That's what I learned the most. The weather and what to expect when you climb in Ecuador. That's what we had no real clue about before we arrived.
Stick to climbing during the midnight hours. On this route it makes even more sense to return during frozen conditions. I thought about the next time I climb it, we leave later, even as late as 4 am. Because the snow was so firm and crunchy on the approach to high camp at 3 pm the day before, it stood to reason the snow would be firm higher up, therefore safe to travel on throughout the day. But you don't want to move slow through the rock section. It takes a good 30-45 minutes for a competent rope team to get through it. It's not technical but you have to be able to walk on mixed rock and snow and scree with mountaineering boots and crampons efficiently and in the dark. It's not a friendly-looking place to be walking beneath if it's warm and melty. I guess this is why I am surprised at the posts immediately above this from 2018 where those guys were talking about this being their first real mountaineering experience, and curious how they ended up. I'm not sure this is a route on a mountain I would learn these skills on.
Contact Luis at Condor Trek if you are interested in a last-minute trip. He is pretty good with giving the info you need as far as if the refugios are open or closed and that stuff.
Red Tape
You'll have to figure out the red tape as you go and it's dependent on what you want to do and if you want to hire a guide. Basically you need to register at every park and they close at 2 pm. But you seem to be able to get out a bit later. But they will lock the gates on both Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. We just pitched a tent off the side of the parking lot on Chimborazo after we rolled in late Thursday night and went in the next morning. We used the day as a travel day then that night as an acclimation night because even the parking lot to the entrance is as high as the summit of Mt. Rainier.
Something else we did earlier in the trip, before Cotopaxi, was spend the night at the Refugio on Pichincha. That was also a bit of and adventure (we sort of had to break in) but the night at altitude is what we needed and we managed to get it and it helped us for Cotopaxi the next night.
Cotopaxi was more of a tailored experience. With the Refugio, the food and accommodations and facilities. it's different. It's like going skiing from a ski lodge. Because the refugios are closed, Chimborazo at this time was more like the experience you'd have climbing a Cascade volcano. You're more on your own with the mountain. But there's still support if you need it so it's not like climbing the Kautz Route on Mt. Rainier where you are self-sustained from as low as 3,600 feet on up. Chimborazo and Cotopaxi for that matter can each be climbed from the parking lots in a day. This is what I will do on Chimborazo next time.
As far as COVID goes, I don't know why I even mentioned it in the headline. I guess to time stamp this semi trip report. It was a non factor. I've gone on seven previous climbing trips to this one during COVID and it's always been the same. Climbers are all taking it seriously and we wear Buffs. That's about it.
I didn't really know what to expect before I went down to Ecuador. I had more questions than answers. But I had a plan and stuck to it and it worked (despite the off-road adventures, getting stuck and then returning the Renault Logan early due to a busted radiator). Now I know what to expect and can return anytime for a lot more climbing. The mountains are very accessible and the refugios are nice (not like the ratholes in Mexico). I will definitely be going back to do some technical climbing on Cayambe, El Atar and Illiniza Sur and I will take the family. Climbing in Ecuador is way better than Mexico. That's for sure.
Thanks for the updates JW. I incorporated the hut closure information onto the front page and credited you with the info. Since I haven't climbed the mountains since January 2007, if there are any other important updates you think should be on the front page, let me know.
Also, I think a lot of your text above can be added as a trip report if you are interesting in adding one. Recent trip reports can be very useful for people climbing the mountain.
The new standard route is through El Castillo. From December to January 8, few groups were able to summit due to avalanche conditions. We had very bad weather, humid and 35 km/hr wind speed. We were the only group that made the Whymper summit that day, 0 visibility, unfortunately.
As of November 2021, camping is no longer allowed outside of the refugios. We were told by our guide (Edgar of Lonely Summits) that since COVID, the park has become more strict around camping and climbers are only allowed to stay in the refugio. The only place to sleep currently is at the high camp. There are large multi-person tents that have been set up for climbers and guides. FYI this significantly adds to the price for a guided trip (approximately $450/person with us bringing our own gear). I will note we did not attempt this summit or even go to high camp due to dangerous snow conditions so this is second-hand information from multiple credible guides.
I summited two days ago, solo. And stayed a full week in the park
camping there, so I have all the fresh information.
Transport: Couldnt be easier. Any bus to Guaranda from the main Terminal in Riobamba, for 2,5$. They will happily drop you off exactly at the park entrance if you want them to. Busses are leaving frequently, especially in the mornings. 5:45, 6:00, 7:30, 8:00, 8:30 are available for sure, bit less around noon, and then more again in the afternoons. Afternoons though are too late to go, because the park entrance currently closes at 14:00, meaning someone will be there, but unless you show up with your guide will simply not let you in anymore! I also took a taxi once and that was 30$ one-way. Hitchhiking the way from the entrance to Refugio Carrell or down is extremely easy and I never paid anything for that. If you feel like walking its 400m/8km/90-120 minutes, and there is also a footpath if you want to cut some distance. If you show up with your own car there is a parking fee now ! Cant say how much though, because I only hitchhiked up. The same busses that take you to the park will also pick you up again when you leave. Just stand on the street and keep your eyes open, you might have to wait for an hour or two though. I seriously cannot imagine someone is being robbed there, it feels extremely safe.
Weather: seems to be notoriously difficult this season, from what all locals and guides told me. Lots and lots of snow, almost no clear days at all. There have been recent avalanche fatalities, at least from my own research. For the seven days before my summit attempt, success rate was 0% due to weather, despite many parties trying.
Camping: As of now, you are allowed to camp, but only on the official "campsite" (no facilities, except little stream for water) next to Refugio Carrel. The refugio itself is fully open currently and used by climbing parties. Refugio Whymper on the other hand is completely out of service still. Officially you need to apply for a kind of permit/authorization for camping or show a reservation for staying at Refugio Carrell. Officially you cannot show up at the park entrance and say "I want to camp there" or "I want to stay at Refugio Carrell" without an existing reservation.
Inofficially - except for the guys/girls at the park entrance - no one cares about anything. I do not recommend anything here, but I think its best to just tell them at the door that you want to do some day hiking. Seriously: if youre in, youre in. You have to register/check-in with your passport though in any case and they will also double check if its yours by asking you questions about it, which is ridiculous. Even more so when you realize that you have to check-in but never have to check out. Besides the official allowed campsite I would also recommend staying at the Laguna which is around the corner from the closed Refugio Whymper, or at the described El Castillo High Camp if your acclimatization is spot on. From conversations I had you can also show up at the official "High Camp" which is on the normal route at 5350m and sleep/eat there before your push.
Climbing: the former, shorter route is almost abandoned, but not completely. It should still be safe at night/when cloudy. Almost everybody is using the longer route on the ridge now though, and so did I. Currently there is plenty of snow down to Refugio Carrell, but the actual glacier starts at 5600. I climbed solo and without a guide, which is entirely possible, if someone else is considering that (definitely not recommended though). Dont worry about anyone even looking strange at you summiting without a guide. After me two parties successfully summited too and especially the guides were super laid-back and friendly. On the glacier stick to a line 10-20m left of the highest point of the ridge and keep your eyes open for crevasses, which are there, but easy to navigate. Its 600m of altitude to the first summit with a relatively steady incline of maybe 40-45°. Then just go straight towards the true summit (you have to descend maybe 30m or so though), then its done.
seancau - Mar 10, 2016 3:07 pm - Hasn't voted
March 2016 updateRefugio Hermanos Carrel fully open (52 beds), since last year. $15/night for a bed, $30 with meals. Whymper Refugio partially open, café open during the day for visitors, the almost finished dormitory was opened for our group - it will have approx 24beds when completed.
Whymper Refugio only of use when Normal Route is safe (requires snow to minimise rockfall risk), otherwise Carrel Refugio is better for taking alternative route. Only 900m distance/200m elevation between the two Refugios, max 30minute walk for anyone acclimatised.
Both refugios are run by Andean Adventures. Was told no need to book in low season, but expect them to fill up in November/December/January.
Our summit bid (March 9th 2016) was ruined by a lightning storm :(
climbhighest - Jun 1, 2016 2:18 pm - Hasn't voted
May 2016Completed a summit on May 25th of Chimborazo. There are really only two summits to Chimborazo: Ventimilla (6267m, 20562ft), and the Whymper summit (6310m, 20702ft). Most people only climb the Ventimilla because although the two summits are only a few hundred feet apart, altitude sickness and/or bad snows conditions between the two summits can make that additional very short trip take several extra hours.
As for how to climb the mountain, there are several guide companies to choose from. I am not endorsing any of them, I will just share my experience as kindly as I can.
I only got quotes from 4 companies:
American Alpine Institute ($2680 for a 10 day excursion, about $1300 to just climb Chimbo);
Ecuador Eco Adventures (guy named Wlady runs the company, ecuadorecoadventure@gmail.com and it was $760 for Carihuairazo and Chimbo);
Andean Adventures (Run by John, andeannadventures@gmail.com less than $400);
Tierra Zero Tours (Guillermo, tierrazerotours@hotmail.com
about $470).
I ended up using Ecuador Eco Adventures for the first attempt on May 14th. I will not bad mouth them, but they turned out to be a bad bet. Although I got mountain time, they are not run by an experienced mountaineer and did not understand the mountain conditions well enough to get you to the top and there is some sneaky stuff they did (but they gladly took my money anyways).
I was not deterred, and made the second attempt with Andean Adventures. Turns out in recent years of ice melt, the normal route has become extremely dangerous due to rock fall, especially in high wind, and so is only used rarely. There is an alternate route from the Carrel Refugio that takes a bit longer, but has a higher success rate and is safer. As a result of this alternate route, Whymper hut is not used as often, and Carrel Refugio is the main lodging. Andean Adventures is the company that runs the Refugios in country. They are very professional, and always have a guide on Chimborazo. As a result they understand the mountain better than any of the others from outside the area.
I got to Riobamba from Quito once using a rideshare taxi (works well if you know Spanish, costs $20 each way, takes 4.5hrs). The second time I got to Riobamba using the bus from Quitumbe, $4.70, and easy to do even if you dont speak spanish "AutoBus Directo Riobamba, Pronto!". Andean Adventures picked me up at the bus stop and took me to the Refugio (standard for guide companies to include). I did almost get mugged on the bus ride, so be diligent during all of the stops the bus makes.
Earthquake did not seriously effect mountain routes.
Acclimatize with one of the other glaciated volcanoes in the area. I recommend Pichincha Ruca (no guide needed, easy access from Quito), and then Cayambe (2hrs from Quito, just hire a guide when you get there).
the_avs_fan - Mar 11, 2017 9:14 pm - Voted 10/10
AmazingI climbed Chimborazo with Andean Adventures on Jan 27-28, 2017. I cannot recommend them enough! The owner, John, is very professional and straight-forward about every detail. I enjoyed talking with him and felt comfortable that I was choosing the right company to climb with. Their office is in Riobamba.
This was one of the highlights of my trip. We got to the Veintimilla Summit at 4:45am, a little too early for the sunrise, but I was not complaining! I was just happy to make it to the top!
The mountain is beautiful. It is very big, and you realize this when you see it for the first time. If you are considering going to see this mountain (or make a summit attempt) I say go for it!
Andean Adventures is the best company to climb with. Why? For one, they operate the refuges on the mountain, and always have a guide above 4800M. They are the first response if an accident happens, so their guides know the mountain very well. It was the 421st time summitting for my guide when I did my hike.
All in all, a special place and really quite a sight to see.
jeanpaulnoahrodney - Feb 7, 2018 6:13 pm - Hasn't voted
January 2018 Summit Attempt: Snow too dangerous NOBODY got past 19,500 feet. Whymper Refuge is CLOSEDSome updates: Whymper Refuge is closed. The lower refuge was open and was the nicest climbing refuge we have ever stayed (indoor toilets, running water, electricity, comfortable beds, and much quieter than the Cotopaxi Refuge because the ceiling are lower). The food was great but there are no lockers. We attempted the summit on the night of January 11, 2018. No one got higher than around 19,500 feet because the snow was too dangerous. A couple days later, the snow was fine and people did summit. We used Andes Climbing, based in Machachi. This (and the other mountains we climbed) was a difficult mountain for me, who is not skilled in rock climbing (my son and husband are, and it was easier for them). Be sure to use a reputable guide. On Cotopaxi, we saw a very UNPROFESSIONAL guide taking a Korean man up. Thankfully, he was not hurt.
robfrank - Mar 27, 2018 9:19 am - Hasn't voted
Looking for advice on climbing ChimborazoI'm planning a trip to Quito in late October. I would like to do both Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
I would spend a few days in Quito and then do Pichincha Ruca, then a rest day, then two days for Cotopaxi, a rest day, and then two days for Chimborazo.
Does that itinerary seem feasible? Is four days in Quito and Pichincha Ruca enough to acclimate for Cotopaxi and then Chimborazo?
Any recommendations for guides for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?
Thanks all for your help and comments.
fredsfo - Apr 10, 2018 12:54 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Looking for advice on climbing ChimborazoHello!
I'm planning a similar trip with a friend of mine. We've hired a guide and are sort of in the discovery phase / beta gathering ourselves. We will be arriving in Quito on October 9th and have until the 18th though we plan on staying in Ecuador until the 25th. Our main goal is Chimborazo, but we also plan to attempt Cotopaxi. Our guide says that our itinerary will look something like this: https://cotopaxi-travel.com/ecuador-climb-cotopaxi-chimborazo-8days-trip.php feel free to message me if you have any questions or if you want to team up.
JWBriggs - Feb 3, 2021 11:21 am - Hasn't voted
Climbing Chimborazo and Cotopaxi during COVIDI'm curious what happened to the people in the posts from 2018. I wonder if they attempted and or summited these mountains. In any case, I did just summit these mountains. I did Cotopaxi Jan 19 then Chimborazo Jan. 23-24, 2021.
IMPORTANT: As of this post, both the Carrell and Whymper Refugios are CLOSED and you will not be able to sleep there. From what I gather from the guides, there's some sort of dispute with who owns or operates it. Conversely Refugio Jose Ribas on Cotopaxi is open. That, I was surprised about. I arrived in Ecuador with the assumption that refugio was closed.
Back on Chimborazo, on Saturdays it seems you can get some things from the kitchen inside the Carrell Refugio and the bathrooms were open the Saturday I was there. I spent most of the day Friday and until about 2 pm Saturday hanging around the Refugio. I had several odd experiences during that time and I camped to the right of the Carrell Refugio. Walk to the right of the building and you will see campsites ready for tents. I slept a lot and prepared for the climb the next day. The weather was terrible. Rain and sleet froze overnight and turned my tent into a chocolate-coated ice cream you get from Dairy Queen.
As far as climbing the mountain, on Saturday I went up to high camp at 17,350 or whatever and setup my tent until midnight and we made a 5-hour dash to the summit. It was cold as F the last 1,000 feet. Even with a new pair of insulated Black Diamond Gortex gloves (I had purchased after my hands froze on Cotopaxi) my hands froze.
We left camp too early then climbed pretty quickly. But the last 700 feet was slower and tough. We cruised the section past the rock cliffs before El Castillo comes up and joins the ridge. We blew past several of the parties who left about 15 minutes before us and never saw them again. Turns out they didn't make it much further. You can see who's climbed a mountain in technical mountaineering gear and who hasn't when it comes to these types of sections or on the descent. Anyways, we slowed down after that and the higher we got, the exponentially colder it became. At one point I took my gloves off my right hand and stuck it in my pants pocket. When I did that, I was able to regain some of the feeling and that told me that while my hand was damn cold and going toward frostbite, I had time and had caught it early enough and so far, was able to mitigate it.
I powered on and we still got to the summit too early. 5:15 in the morning. It was pitch black and the clouds were on us. Quickly figuring out we couldn't see anything and the sun wasn't coming up for another hour-plus, and not wanting a repeat of Cotopaxi, where we climbed through a storm, we decided not to hangout and we went back down.
The descent was uneventful and the storm never materialized. By the time I reached camp, my hands were tingling but heading the right direction. As as the other parties stumbled back, several of the guides commented on how the cold had come in so fiercely, while taking off their gloves to inspect their fingers. It turns out we got a cold weather front that rolled in for about three hours and the precipitation had held off. But the air was so wet that the cold was penetrating. That's what I learned the most. The weather and what to expect when you climb in Ecuador. That's what we had no real clue about before we arrived.
Stick to climbing during the midnight hours. On this route it makes even more sense to return during frozen conditions. I thought about the next time I climb it, we leave later, even as late as 4 am. Because the snow was so firm and crunchy on the approach to high camp at 3 pm the day before, it stood to reason the snow would be firm higher up, therefore safe to travel on throughout the day. But you don't want to move slow through the rock section. It takes a good 30-45 minutes for a competent rope team to get through it. It's not technical but you have to be able to walk on mixed rock and snow and scree with mountaineering boots and crampons efficiently and in the dark. It's not a friendly-looking place to be walking beneath if it's warm and melty. I guess this is why I am surprised at the posts immediately above this from 2018 where those guys were talking about this being their first real mountaineering experience, and curious how they ended up. I'm not sure this is a route on a mountain I would learn these skills on.
Contact Luis at Condor Trek if you are interested in a last-minute trip. He is pretty good with giving the info you need as far as if the refugios are open or closed and that stuff.
Red Tape
You'll have to figure out the red tape as you go and it's dependent on what you want to do and if you want to hire a guide. Basically you need to register at every park and they close at 2 pm. But you seem to be able to get out a bit later. But they will lock the gates on both Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. We just pitched a tent off the side of the parking lot on Chimborazo after we rolled in late Thursday night and went in the next morning. We used the day as a travel day then that night as an acclimation night because even the parking lot to the entrance is as high as the summit of Mt. Rainier.
Something else we did earlier in the trip, before Cotopaxi, was spend the night at the Refugio on Pichincha. That was also a bit of and adventure (we sort of had to break in) but the night at altitude is what we needed and we managed to get it and it helped us for Cotopaxi the next night.
Cotopaxi was more of a tailored experience. With the Refugio, the food and accommodations and facilities. it's different. It's like going skiing from a ski lodge. Because the refugios are closed, Chimborazo at this time was more like the experience you'd have climbing a Cascade volcano. You're more on your own with the mountain. But there's still support if you need it so it's not like climbing the Kautz Route on Mt. Rainier where you are self-sustained from as low as 3,600 feet on up. Chimborazo and Cotopaxi for that matter can each be climbed from the parking lots in a day. This is what I will do on Chimborazo next time.
As far as COVID goes, I don't know why I even mentioned it in the headline. I guess to time stamp this semi trip report. It was a non factor. I've gone on seven previous climbing trips to this one during COVID and it's always been the same. Climbers are all taking it seriously and we wear Buffs. That's about it.
I didn't really know what to expect before I went down to Ecuador. I had more questions than answers. But I had a plan and stuck to it and it worked (despite the off-road adventures, getting stuck and then returning the Renault Logan early due to a busted radiator). Now I know what to expect and can return anytime for a lot more climbing. The mountains are very accessible and the refugios are nice (not like the ratholes in Mexico). I will definitely be going back to do some technical climbing on Cayambe, El Atar and Illiniza Sur and I will take the family. Climbing in Ecuador is way better than Mexico. That's for sure.
Scott - Mar 19, 2021 8:15 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Climbing Chimborazo and Cotopaxi during COVIDThanks for the updates JW. I incorporated the hut closure information onto the front page and credited you with the info. Since I haven't climbed the mountains since January 2007, if there are any other important updates you think should be on the front page, let me know.
Also, I think a lot of your text above can be added as a trip report if you are interesting in adding one. Recent trip reports can be very useful for people climbing the mountain.
Scott - Mar 19, 2021 8:25 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Climbing Chimborazo and Cotopaxi during COVIDUpdates on things like taxi fares, bus fares, etc. would be appreciated.
INAKI - Feb 16, 2021 12:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Chimborazo Whymper Summit 18 Jan 2021The new standard route is through El Castillo. From December to January 8, few groups were able to summit due to avalanche conditions. We had very bad weather, humid and 35 km/hr wind speed. We were the only group that made the Whymper summit that day, 0 visibility, unfortunately.
Dra125 - Nov 30, 2021 12:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Camping at Refugios Not AllowedAs of November 2021, camping is no longer allowed outside of the refugios. We were told by our guide (Edgar of Lonely Summits) that since COVID, the park has become more strict around camping and climbers are only allowed to stay in the refugio. The only place to sleep currently is at the high camp. There are large multi-person tents that have been set up for climbers and guides. FYI this significantly adds to the price for a guided trip (approximately $450/person with us bringing our own gear). I will note we did not attempt this summit or even go to high camp due to dangerous snow conditions so this is second-hand information from multiple credible guides.
heyfrederik - Jan 9, 2023 11:37 am - Voted 10/10
January 2023 UpdateI summited two days ago, solo. And stayed a full week in the park
camping there, so I have all the fresh information.
Transport: Couldnt be easier. Any bus to Guaranda from the main Terminal in Riobamba, for 2,5$. They will happily drop you off exactly at the park entrance if you want them to. Busses are leaving frequently, especially in the mornings. 5:45, 6:00, 7:30, 8:00, 8:30 are available for sure, bit less around noon, and then more again in the afternoons. Afternoons though are too late to go, because the park entrance currently closes at 14:00, meaning someone will be there, but unless you show up with your guide will simply not let you in anymore! I also took a taxi once and that was 30$ one-way. Hitchhiking the way from the entrance to Refugio Carrell or down is extremely easy and I never paid anything for that. If you feel like walking its 400m/8km/90-120 minutes, and there is also a footpath if you want to cut some distance. If you show up with your own car there is a parking fee now ! Cant say how much though, because I only hitchhiked up. The same busses that take you to the park will also pick you up again when you leave. Just stand on the street and keep your eyes open, you might have to wait for an hour or two though. I seriously cannot imagine someone is being robbed there, it feels extremely safe.
Weather: seems to be notoriously difficult this season, from what all locals and guides told me. Lots and lots of snow, almost no clear days at all. There have been recent avalanche fatalities, at least from my own research. For the seven days before my summit attempt, success rate was 0% due to weather, despite many parties trying.
Camping: As of now, you are allowed to camp, but only on the official "campsite" (no facilities, except little stream for water) next to Refugio Carrel. The refugio itself is fully open currently and used by climbing parties. Refugio Whymper on the other hand is completely out of service still. Officially you need to apply for a kind of permit/authorization for camping or show a reservation for staying at Refugio Carrell. Officially you cannot show up at the park entrance and say "I want to camp there" or "I want to stay at Refugio Carrell" without an existing reservation.
Inofficially - except for the guys/girls at the park entrance - no one cares about anything. I do not recommend anything here, but I think its best to just tell them at the door that you want to do some day hiking. Seriously: if youre in, youre in. You have to register/check-in with your passport though in any case and they will also double check if its yours by asking you questions about it, which is ridiculous. Even more so when you realize that you have to check-in but never have to check out. Besides the official allowed campsite I would also recommend staying at the Laguna which is around the corner from the closed Refugio Whymper, or at the described El Castillo High Camp if your acclimatization is spot on. From conversations I had you can also show up at the official "High Camp" which is on the normal route at 5350m and sleep/eat there before your push.
Climbing: the former, shorter route is almost abandoned, but not completely. It should still be safe at night/when cloudy. Almost everybody is using the longer route on the ridge now though, and so did I. Currently there is plenty of snow down to Refugio Carrell, but the actual glacier starts at 5600. I climbed solo and without a guide, which is entirely possible, if someone else is considering that (definitely not recommended though). Dont worry about anyone even looking strange at you summiting without a guide. After me two parties successfully summited too and especially the guides were super laid-back and friendly. On the glacier stick to a line 10-20m left of the highest point of the ridge and keep your eyes open for crevasses, which are there, but easy to navigate. Its 600m of altitude to the first summit with a relatively steady incline of maybe 40-45°. Then just go straight towards the true summit (you have to descend maybe 30m or so though), then its done.