Base Camp at 4300 is fine, but you need to get up very early to reach the summit. You can also camp at waht is called Moraine Camp. At about 4800m , this will save some 2h00 of sleep. When we where there, a bunch of people, including a Peruvian guide, got their stuff stolen (sleeping bags, boots, etc). I recommend hiding you stuff before going up.
Only map available of 1997 (2ªed): IGN of Perú, Huari, serie J631, Sheet 1452 (19-i). 1:100.000. This map don't had the names of the main mountains, but the lines of level are O.K. (Vallunaraju or Ishinca don't appear with name in the map)
According to the official 2011 National Park pass, the fee for the Huascaran National Park is 65 Soles for 7 days. However, later a local mountain guide told me that it was in fact valid for a month, despite what the ticket said!
Also in 2011, officially it is not allowed anymore to climb without a guide unless you are a member of an alpine society. In fact, as I went to the National Park office to buy my 7-day park pass, they looked at my membership card and then asked me to fill out a form with my intended itinerary.
Along the road to the Llaca valley I encountered a park ranger who checked park passes and wanted the itinerary document.
However, on another trip to a different valley, the park ranger there had no clue as to what the itinerary document was for, so I could have entered without one. I guess that not all the park rangers know about this new rule and document.
The road must have improved a lot, because I 'only' paid 120 Soles for the taxi to drive me from Huaraz to the refuge (which, by the way, is currently closed for business as it is being upgraded).
On the way back, I hitched a ride in one of the several cars driving people in and out, and paid 50 Soles.
Now in 2017 the robberies are still there!!! They came up to the high camp at 4450m while we were on the summit! Take care and watch out! And don't leave your staff there unattended! I'm sure now, that there are some locals who spy the people while going up to the High Camp! Anyway....it's a beautiful mountain and a very good view!
intothewild - Jul 25, 2017 10:27 am - Hasn't voted
Comments and quick trip report
The summit elevation reported by the page is off by 100m. The correct summit elevation is more like 5680m.
I made the summit of Valluna on July 10, 2017, using a guide and porter. We camped at the moraine - 4945m - after a hike of about 2h from the trail head. Short, but very steep. The glacier is about 30'-45' of relatively easy rock scrambling from the moraine camp. We left the tent at 2 AM and reached summit at dawn (6-6:30AM). Spectacular weather and views. There are a couple of steep snow walls to climb on the way to the top - nothing dramatic. One is about 6m tall and we rappelled down on the way back (but it can be easily down-climbed). The road to the trail head is in dire conditions - big rocks and huge holes - but my driver made it (slowly) with a Toyota Corolla station wagon...
e_wire - Jul 25, 2003 9:58 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentBase Camp at 4300 is fine, but you need to get up very early to reach the summit. You can also camp at waht is called Moraine Camp. At about 4800m , this will save some 2h00 of sleep. When we where there, a bunch of people, including a Peruvian guide, got their stuff stolen (sleeping bags, boots, etc). I recommend hiding you stuff before going up.
Rafa Bartolome - Aug 25, 2004 2:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentOnly map available of 1997 (2ªed): IGN of Perú, Huari, serie J631, Sheet 1452 (19-i). 1:100.000. This map don't had the names of the main mountains, but the lines of level are O.K. (Vallunaraju or Ishinca don't appear with name in the map)
rgg - Jun 22, 2011 2:37 pm - Voted 10/10
Red TapeAlong the road to the Llaca valley I encountered a park ranger who checked park passes and wanted the itinerary document.
However, on another trip to a different valley, the park ranger there had no clue as to what the itinerary document was for, so I could have entered without one. I guess that not all the park rangers know about this new rule and document.
rgg - Jun 22, 2011 2:41 pm - Voted 10/10
Getting thereThe road must have improved a lot, because I 'only' paid 120 Soles for the taxi to drive me from Huaraz to the refuge (which, by the way, is currently closed for business as it is being upgraded).
On the way back, I hitched a ride in one of the several cars driving people in and out, and paid 50 Soles.
Boriss Andean - Jun 23, 2011 6:08 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Getting thereThank you Rob for the updates. I posted them already. I appreciate it!
Boriss...
Hörnli - Jun 15, 2017 11:51 am - Hasn't voted
RobberiesNow in 2017 the robberies are still there!!! They came up to the high camp at 4450m while we were on the summit! Take care and watch out! And don't leave your staff there unattended! I'm sure now, that there are some locals who spy the people while going up to the High Camp! Anyway....it's a beautiful mountain and a very good view!
intothewild - Jul 25, 2017 10:27 am - Hasn't voted
Comments and quick trip reportThe summit elevation reported by the page is off by 100m. The correct summit elevation is more like 5680m.
I made the summit of Valluna on July 10, 2017, using a guide and porter. We camped at the moraine - 4945m - after a hike of about 2h from the trail head. Short, but very steep. The glacier is about 30'-45' of relatively easy rock scrambling from the moraine camp. We left the tent at 2 AM and reached summit at dawn (6-6:30AM). Spectacular weather and views. There are a couple of steep snow walls to climb on the way to the top - nothing dramatic. One is about 6m tall and we rappelled down on the way back (but it can be easily down-climbed). The road to the trail head is in dire conditions - big rocks and huge holes - but my driver made it (slowly) with a Toyota Corolla station wagon...