Appears to be a couple more climbs (1997, 1999) listed on the Wikipedia page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasherbrum_IV which largely references Alpinist Newswire. The coordinates seem to be a little off too, at least vs. the Google base-map. The Gasherbrum I page appears to also need as per this page: "Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn't mean "shining wall". The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain."
Thanks!
Coordinates corrected. Info Source: High Asia 5700/500 list, by Jurgalski and de Ferranti. 35°45'45" 76°36'57" Converted to decimal.
The missing Korean ascents added.
I also changed the info on the GI page. I was one of those which believed Gasherbrum meant shining wall, but was later taught that wasn't the case. I had forgotten to change that on the GI page.
Thanks so much for the write up. One tad of history is that Voytek and Jarek did climb once more together after Gasherbrum IV. They and two talented youngsters (Artur Hazjer & Carlos Carsolio) attempted Manaslu in 1986, I believe it was, but up the mountain a little ways Voytek turned around due to the avalanche danger. That was when the final split between them occurred because since the two had climbed together last, Jurek had lost three partners, and Voytek sensed an unabated recklessness possessing the guy that hadn't been quite the case when they climbed together more consistently back then.
Damien Gildea - Mar 11, 2009 8:15 am - Hasn't voted
CorrectionsYou have Kurtyka/Schauer for "1994 & 1995" but they did their climb in 1985.
Bonatti 1958 route is NE ridge, not N.
Spanish 2008 did not go to main summit, as originally reported.
D
Corax - Mar 11, 2009 10:24 am - Hasn't voted
Re: CorrectionsThanks Damien. Corrected.
eza - Mar 17, 2009 6:42 am - Voted 10/10
Just a minor detail...the 2008 spanish climber name is Miguel Zabalza (not "Zabalaza") ;)
Corax - Mar 18, 2009 10:52 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Just a minor detail...Thanks for the info. I will change it right now!
Baarb - Nov 24, 2009 1:27 am - Voted 10/10
More ascent info?Appears to be a couple more climbs (1997, 1999) listed on the Wikipedia page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasherbrum_IV which largely references Alpinist Newswire. The coordinates seem to be a little off too, at least vs. the Google base-map. The Gasherbrum I page appears to also need as per this page: "Contrary to general belief Gasherbrum doesn't mean "shining wall". The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means mountain."
Corax - Nov 24, 2009 12:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: More ascent info?Thanks!
Coordinates corrected. Info Source: High Asia 5700/500 list, by Jurgalski and de Ferranti. 35°45'45" 76°36'57" Converted to decimal.
The missing Korean ascents added.
I also changed the info on the GI page. I was one of those which believed Gasherbrum meant shining wall, but was later taught that wasn't the case. I had forgotten to change that on the GI page.
Philat98 - Aug 21, 2018 11:57 am - Hasn't voted
Bonatti's account of climbing G4 in 1954Solferino have published a new book (2018) by Bonatti La Montagna Scintillante that tells the story of the ascent of G4 in 1958.
Corax - Aug 23, 2018 8:15 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Bonatti's account of climbing G4 in 1954Very interesting. Thanks for this info. I may looking for this book myself :)
Nicholas S - Jul 14, 2021 10:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Excellent infoThanks so much for the write up. One tad of history is that Voytek and Jarek did climb once more together after Gasherbrum IV. They and two talented youngsters (Artur Hazjer & Carlos Carsolio) attempted Manaslu in 1986, I believe it was, but up the mountain a little ways Voytek turned around due to the avalanche danger. That was when the final split between them occurred because since the two had climbed together last, Jurek had lost three partners, and Voytek sensed an unabated recklessness possessing the guy that hadn't been quite the case when they climbed together more consistently back then.