This route actually begins at a prominent flake a few yards to the right of the chimney. Going this way puts the full pitch at a little over 100' in length and introduces serious issues with rope drag (and it is 5.5 with a tricky start). This version also offers placements for larger cams such as a #5 C4. Starting at the chimney is a more direct variation (5.4). I haven't done it, as it was wet the day I did this route.
Caution: some of the flakes on this route sound hollow and feel rotten. Test the rock before you put something, especially a cam, in it.
Because of the rock quality and the drag issues, I do not think this a very good beginner lead despite the grade.
Bob Sihler - Nov 13, 2016 9:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Chimney is a variationThis route actually begins at a prominent flake a few yards to the right of the chimney. Going this way puts the full pitch at a little over 100' in length and introduces serious issues with rope drag (and it is 5.5 with a tricky start). This version also offers placements for larger cams such as a #5 C4. Starting at the chimney is a more direct variation (5.4). I haven't done it, as it was wet the day I did this route.
Caution: some of the flakes on this route sound hollow and feel rotten. Test the rock before you put something, especially a cam, in it.
Because of the rock quality and the drag issues, I do not think this a very good beginner lead despite the grade.