This route, either via North Gully or North Rib or even the North Buttress of Tahquitz Rock to the Notch and up the ridge to the Lookout Tower can be a wonderful winter outing. If you decide to go via the North Rib or North Buttress you'll need a rope and pro, also ice axe and crampons, but the climbing is fairly easy and the ridgeline to the Lookout Tower is great. You can make the upper part (to the Lookout Tower) as easy or hard (scramble to easy 5th to about 5.9). The North Gully in winter also (usually) requires crampons and ice axe. Return via traversing the Tahquitz Peak's North Face (a bit of technical ice terrain), then down to the Saddle and via the Devil's Slide to Humber Park. Might be Alpine Grade III, mid 5th class the easiest technical way, about 7-9 hours in winter RT (if you know the way). See some photos in this post from our winter climb a few years ago. Cheers, Alois Smrz.
asmrz - Jan 19, 2011 2:49 pm - Voted 10/10
In WinterThis route, either via North Gully or North Rib or even the North Buttress of Tahquitz Rock to the Notch and up the ridge to the Lookout Tower can be a wonderful winter outing. If you decide to go via the North Rib or North Buttress you'll need a rope and pro, also ice axe and crampons, but the climbing is fairly easy and the ridgeline to the Lookout Tower is great. You can make the upper part (to the Lookout Tower) as easy or hard (scramble to easy 5th to about 5.9). The North Gully in winter also (usually) requires crampons and ice axe. Return via traversing the Tahquitz Peak's North Face (a bit of technical ice terrain), then down to the Saddle and via the Devil's Slide to Humber Park. Might be Alpine Grade III, mid 5th class the easiest technical way, about 7-9 hours in winter RT (if you know the way). See some photos in this post from our winter climb a few years ago. Cheers, Alois Smrz.