TC Pro
Product Description
The TC Pro is La Sportiva's new high-top edging / crack shoe, designed for all-day use and big walls. It is stiff and padded for cracks and standing in aiders.The La Sportiva North America website says the rubber is a new compound called "XS Edge", supposedly formulated for technical edging.
The shoe's last is PD55, slightly downturned and asymmetrical, similar to the Katana.
The name comes from Tommy Caldwell, according to this review from Rock & Ice.
Features
From the La Sportiva website :Upper: Suede leather, slip lasted
Lining: Pacific
Fit: Medium
Midsole: LaSpoFlex 1.1 mm only on the anterior of the shoe combined with the P3 system
Sole: Vibram® 4 mm
Sizes: 32 - 46 EU, including half sizes
Weight: 500g per pair
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Reviews
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WML - Jun 18, 2010 8:11 pm - Voted 5/5
Awesome shoes!
As Rob mentions, the break-in is significant, but once these are broken in, they are truly a wonder. Excellent for crack climbing and edging, the rubber will take some significant time to break in for good smearing. If I'm climbing slab in Tuolumne, I'm bringing my 5.10's but if I am doing any face work or jamming, these are the ticket for sure.
A bit long, I typically wear a 44 in Sportiva's mountaineering boots and hiking boots, I wear a 41 in these. I also have very wide hobbit feet.
5/5 on edging
5/5 on crack climbing
5/5 on comfort once broken in
3.5/5 on smearing, gotta learn to trust these guys, meh.
A bit long, I typically wear a 44 in Sportiva's mountaineering boots and hiking boots, I wear a 41 in these. I also have very wide hobbit feet.
5/5 on edging
5/5 on crack climbing
5/5 on comfort once broken in
3.5/5 on smearing, gotta learn to trust these guys, meh.
Brian C - Aug 6, 2013 9:00 am - Voted 5/5
The best
Disclaimer: I'm not the world's greatest climber and often say I live in the world of moderates.
These shoes are amazing. They are comfortable and have far superior precision than the Mythos. I have climbed up to 5.10 (I know, I suck) in the Flatirons and Eldo in these and have worn them all day on Fisher bigwall climbing. They've held up like a champ even after resoling. The only downside is that they are VERY expensive.
These shoes are amazing. They are comfortable and have far superior precision than the Mythos. I have climbed up to 5.10 (I know, I suck) in the Flatirons and Eldo in these and have worn them all day on Fisher bigwall climbing. They've held up like a champ even after resoling. The only downside is that they are VERY expensive.
Viewing: 1-3 of 3 |
rhyang - Oct 21, 2009 11:44 pm - Voted 4/5
Great crack shoeThese shoes make foot-jamming a joy, and offer ankle protection for wider cracks. They do seem to edge well.
The padding and stiffness makes them a bit less sensitive than some other shoes (such as the Katana). The toebox is also kind of large, so narrower cracks may take more finesse. Smearing is ok, but the lack of sensitivity takes some getting used to.
I'm not much of an aid climber, so I can't really comment on their suitability for big walls and aid stuff.
Sizing: My feet measure 9.5 US / 42.5 EU. Left foot is a little longer than the right, wide toes, narrow heels. I also wear Sportiva Katana's in size 40.5 EU (pretty tight on me), but sized up in the TC Pro's to 41. This seems to work well for crack climbing and longer climbs, but they still seem precise.