I've been climbing ice for a while now, but only recently did a buddy of mine get the idea to go out at night. It seemed like the logical solution to getting out when you have to work during the daylight hours. When I told another friend of mine we got some climbing in at night, he warned me that the ice is weaker and more prone to fracturing at night. I did notice some horizontal fractures a couple of times after sticking a tool (0 degrees F and a clear night), but I was under the impression that its freezing/growing/firming up at night, potentially making it stonger. Then again, the colder temperatures could be making the ice more brittle. Other than the obviously colder temperatures and reduced visibility/situational awareness, are there any reasons I shouldn't continue to climb at night? We had a blast and climbing during a full moon is wild! Thanks!

Visibility would be a much bigger concern to me than the temperature of the ice. Can you see that horizontal crack in the curtain above you, that giant cornice hanging over you, the loose bight of your rope that's stuck in a tree or dipping into a stream? Will you find your descent route? But a bright moonlit night is probably better visibility than snow showers in which we climb routinely, so assuming you have a little common sense about choosing your routes, I'm not particularly concerned.

Your other friend is technically right - on average, cold ice is less plastic, more brittle. But the difference isn't dramatic (except above 0 deg centigrade, of course). Given how much the brittleness of ice varies in ordinary conditions, you're probably already well experienced with brittle ice. Be careful when climbing thin curtains, and try not to rain debris onto your belayer, otherwise don't worry about it.

That's kinda what I thought. We chose our routes so we had a good easy walk off and low avalanche danger. Good training for longer alpine routes.

hepcat241 wrote:Good training for longer alpine routes.

Like it.

Seems that the particular night temp is more important than the nighttime itself. I've climbed on some pretty warm nights hoping it was cool enough to freeze what was mush earlier in the day. I admire and encourage you to do more--especially if you post pics for us New Mexicans.

I agree with the previous response--if visibility is good (and it can be surprisingly good on a clear night, especially with a decent headlamp that spreads the beam more than a spotlight) then you're all set. It makes easier ice climbs interesting to repeat if you do it in the dark.