Is this a good rope for extending top rope climbing anchors past the edge of the rock? As far as I understand, the specs seem correct: 11mm, static, it claims to have "superior" abrasion resistance. I do not see as many Google hits as I would expect, though, so maybe not. What else would you recommend (other than 1-inch tubular webbing)?

https://www.rei.com/product/472262/blue ... -716-x-150

Wouldn't webbing be cheaper and equally effective?

You tell me! I'm new to this. According to the specs, the webbing below would have about the same strength and weight when doubled up. But if doubled up, price per foot would also come up just about the same (just shy of $1), whether for two strands of webbing, or for the rope. Is webbing more abrasion-resistant compared to the same weight of rope? How many strands of webbing should I use to extend the anchor?

https://www.rei.com/product/752375/blue ... e-of-30-ft

Go get some cheap static line by the foot, like this one: https://www.rei.com/product/472013/pmi- ... tatic-rope

Not sure what the crags are like in your area, but 100' is plenty for me.

Sometimes that static line by the foot at REI is good stuff, but not always. The last 150' I bought immediately core shot and isn't durable. The sheath is weak. Other times I have not had that problem.

9mm static line would be more than durable enough. 11mm would be absolutely bomb proof. The anchors would rip out before the rope broke. If you are loading the anchor over a sharp edge, be sure to pad it with something, like an old closed cell foam sleeping pad. Use a prussic to connect the pad to the anchor material to keep it from moving.

Agreed, the 11mm in my link was just what happened to be available and affordable on the website I was already looking at.

Thanks! I was thinking a couple feet of 2-inch tubular webbing would make a nice protective collar around the double strands of the rope for extra peace of mind. Btw, any comments about what the guy in this video is doing? I was planning on doing the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqk3n6aEaBw

How are you going to get the tubular webbing to the right place on the rope?

re the video:

Using an extra length of static rope to rap past the lip is a neat idea. Obviously it involves some extra steps as you're switching to your climbing rope, with potential for fatal errors there. Balanced against that, it avoids a very scary moment (and potential for dynamic loading, 'biner movement, rope movement over the lip) when you first lean back over the lip, and it's extra useful when the top of the climb is obstructed or slopey and you need to hang your rope extra low to avoid friction at the top. I'd be interested to hear from folks who use this technique regularly; for me it's usually simpler to tie in to the climbing rope in the first place.

You could also rap off both your static end and your climbing line in parallel, but that's a lot of stuff hanging off your harness to deal with. I've done it in aforementioned low-hanging situations, and it's not very pretty.

I've always used two reversed locking biners, don't see why three non-locking would be any better.

If you're not using the end of the static line to help belay yourself over the lip, then it's slightly redundant to set up an equalized strongpoint just to run the static line from there. The static rope itself can do the job of equalizing. I like the method shown in the video, it's tidy and very quick, but it won't work on some of the crags I visit, where the only anchors are distant, widely-spaced trees. I bought a hundred feet of static line for a reason.

I like his chicken sling, I used a piece of 8mm for that purpose for years. Jebbus Crabst, that is a lot of work to set up a top rope anchor. He wanted the TR ascent, bad!

Get 100' of 11mm static line and you can set up almost anything and, as said above, it's virtually bombproof. Hell, I keep mine in the car at all times in case I have to tow someone out of a ditch.

If your approaches involve hikes of any length worth thinking about, go with 8mm cord. I have some 50' lengths. They have been bomber under falls and hangdogging. Keep two short sheaths of webbing on to protect against abrasion at the lip and it's all good.

Using just webbing for a TR anchor seems like a lot of hassle. I see people do it all the time, and it often seems a mess, with multiple points of possible failure. With 100' of cord, you can make a redundant anchor without all the fuss.

I agree with Bob Sihler.

Instead of using a piece of foam for the edge of the rock use a piece of surplus carpet. You can sew, by hand, a piece of webbing loop to the carpet and attach it to the anchor keeping it from falling over the edge.
If you drive around just about any neighborhood someone is throwing away an old carpet, or just buy a piece from the Home Depot.