Hi,

we (my wife and me) expect to climb the Sarektjakka (stortoppen) by the west ridge this summer (in the second half of july).

The informations I found about this route are very minimal. Would anyone be kind enough to tell me more about
- the glaciers (Alep Sarekjekna and/or Mikkajakna): can they be cracked? Can we be satisfied with lightweight crampons? Should we be roped?
- the ridge : Should we be roped?

Thanks in advance and my apologies for my bad english.

In July the glaciers are normally free of snow (June is often a very rainy month) so dangers should be visible. Are you approching from north or south?

1. Yes they can be cracked, especially Mikkajekna got som nasty cracks. On alep I´ve seen some very deep holes/"wells" that sometimes can be hidden. I should bring an 8mm glacier rope for safety and be roped in when crossing.

2. No, the ridge is pretty wide and there are only a few sections of scambling. If you want to continue to north peak I would rope in and repell first section as it is rather exposed.

I passed Skarja August last summer. The only thing possible to reach, according to my judgement, from Skarja at that time without using rope (crossing to much snow at Mihkajiegna) was west ridge of sydtoppen, but I dont know if it is allright to climb that route.