Hi all I'm going to attempt the west ridge of the Eiger early July. There isn't alot of information on the web about the west ridge.. Has anyone done it can offer any advise... What is the gradient is it similar to the goutier ridge on Mont Blanc most of the way up. Where can I buy a map of the area I have searched the net high and low. kind regards Matt

The West Ridge (Flank) of the Eiger is very similar in difficulty to the Hörnligrat on the Matterhorn, but the route finding is far more difficult -especially on the lower part of the route. There can be quite steep ice at the top.

The route is not comparable to the Gouter Route on Mt. Blanc at all (IMO).

If you send me an email or a PM with your email address, I will send you some scans of route descriptions and sketches of the route - in both German & English. I just did these for someone else and still have them in a file.

Hi Fred, yes that will be very much appreciated, this is brilliant this forum, i'm new to here. I have been trying for a while to contact someone for info and here we have it. Is the ice climb to the summit as steep as slopes off les bosses ridges. I am just trying to compare it to something that I'm familiar with. If you do it in one go what time did you set off? What time of year did you go? Is the route fairly busy? I imagine its very slow going. Would it be possible to split the route and bivi up? Any information is greatly recieved.. My email adress is matthew_venables@yahoo.co.uk

Have you asked over on UKClimbing.com? You might get more replies there. The route is considered very dangerous, with loose rock and, as Fred says, difficult routefinding and nothing like the Gouter.

Hi guys.

I'm planning a solo ascent via the West Flank in late July this year. Would you mind sharing the route details with me please?
Feel free to email me at L66SLD@yahoo.co.uk

Any help and advice would be greatfully received.

Cheers
Fatty

Fatty,
Assuming you know and have read up on the South-West Flank & West Ridge you know it's the "ordinary" route on the Eiger and the normal descent route. On active Eiger days be aware for climbers coming down and possibly dislodging rock. I've been on the route well over fifty times from descents, climbs and rescues but you always have to keep aware.

Four parts of the route that give virgin climbers the most difficulty are (ascending) 1.finding the couloir above the Rotstock, you can also climb the low limestone tiers to it's right. 2. knowing when to move left out of the couloir, after you get above the first cliff on the left. 3. in the ridge higher up (where you can see across the wall) starting your circular traverse to the right then back to the left to the ridge where the rock is steep and can be a little hard if snow covered. 4.turn the last vertical step to it's right then return to the ridge, above that point the angle continues steep to the summit crest.
I'll ad climbers have gone straight up the two steps on the ridge adding a bit of rock work to the ascent, this of course would lengthen you time which normally will be approx. 4 to 5 hours.

You should be able to easily find photo charts in Grindelwald of the route. If you are apprehensive in any way you would do well to contact any member of the Mountain Guides Association of Grindelwald when you get into town.

There is a good photo here on the site;
http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspac ... /14650.jpg
you can zoom in/out to see the parts I've mentioned.

Well Matt, did you get up the South-West Flank? Just curious, last week I took a party of 4 up it, relative beginners but with allot of small peak experience. Always enjoyable even at my age and going a bit slower than in years past!

Here is a complete report of a solo ascent of the west ridge : http://www.teamexpe.com/team-expe_019.htm

Fred Spicker wrote:The West Ridge (Flank) of the Eiger is very similar in difficulty to the Hörnligrat on the Matterhorn, but the route finding is far more difficult -especially on the lower part of the route. There can be quite steep ice at the top.

The route is not comparable to the Gouter Route on Mt. Blanc at all (IMO).

If you send me an email or a PM with your email address, I will send you some scans of route descriptions and sketches of the route - in both German & English. I just did these for someone else and still have them in a file.

Just dropped you an email