Is that a good one day climb?

Yeah. If you are in decent shape it is a great single day climb. It's a long day, but very reasonable.

jordansahls wrote:I found the crux to be the slabs below the ridge proper, that part took a bit of thought for me. I really like the climb, much more exciting and consistent than Serpentine arete accross the way.

My thoughts exactly. For the same technical grade and similar length, much more good climbing on it.

Vitaliy M. wrote:Is that a good one day climb?

We did it in 14 hours CTC, and that was after doing a hard fast 20 mile, 8,000 ft elevation gain/loss trail run the day before. I was 40 at the time, I suspect a young, strong guy like you could do it even faster.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote:Is that a good one day climb?

We did it in 14 hours CTC, and that was after doing a hard fast 20 mile, 8,000 ft elevation gain/loss trail run the day before. I was 40 at the time, I suspect a young, strong guy like you could do it even faster.

14 hrs CTC sounds about right. It took us 10 hours from the lake to the top, so around 15-17 hrs CTC (I don't exactly remember). However I did manage to f*#k things up with rope drag on multiple occasions so that added a couple of extra half pitches and probably a few hours to the route. Basically our time was leisurely. Also EB, thats a solid time for 40. Still, it seems all of the old school climbers I have climbed with are tough, fast bastards on route and the approach (not saying 40 is old, which it isn't. I'm going to shut up now).

jordansahls wrote:
14 hrs CTC sounds about right. It took us 10 hours from the lake to the top, so around 15-17 hrs CTC (I don't exactly remember). However I did manage to f*#k things up with rope drag on multiple occasions so that added a couple of extra half pitches and probably a few hours to the route. Basically our time was leisurely. Also EB, thats a solid time for 40. Still, it seems all of the old school climbers I have climbed with are tough, fast bastards on route and the approach (not saying 40 is old, which it isn't. I'm going to shut up now).

We had one route finding error, gaining the ridge too early then having to down climb to the 4th class ledge system. I think some route finding issues are par for the course on this route. I've heard more than one story of climbers rapping off after not finding a reasonable way up. Z-Man is fast, I was just trying to keep up with him.

Choosing the climbs for my vacation will be very tough. The weather will probably make the choosing easy though.
Thank you for suggesting some of the North Cascade climbs!

Another under-appreciated route I would like to mention is Green Butte ridge on Mt. Shasta. Although it does not require roping up, I think it is more exposed than Casaval ridge, and is a lot more scenic. One of the most enjoyable day trips I had on Shasta.

Vitaliy M. wrote:Another under-appreciated route I would like to mention is Green Butte ridge on Mt. Shasta. Although it does not require roping up, I think it is more exposed than Casaval ridge, and is a lot more scenic. One of the most enjoyable day trips I had on Shasta.

Thanks for the suggestion. I want to go back and do Shasta again. Did the Casaval and really enjoyed the mountain.

Yeah, it is a very enjoyable place overall. I like the scenery, and the energy (hope I do not sound like a nut) there. Eating at black bear diner or Billy Goat's (or w/e it is called).

Love Billy Goats Tavern. Shasta did have a 'special' feel. Maybe it was the dry climate and the oddly perfect cone shaped trees.

Vitaliy M. wrote:Mathes is a better traverse going North to south. I want to do it again actually. Tenaya peak though a full value climb? lol might as well include 1st pitch of jamcrack. Although jamcrack probably has a longer approach/and is more technical.

I think if one wants a good full value day, it is a great idea to link North Ridge of North peak, North ridge of Conness, and West Ridge of Conness. Can bail after completing any of them. Great rock. Great scenery all day. A lot of scrambling/climbing without huge approaches. Couple of friends and I did it last summer, and we had TONS of fun.

Tenaya NOT a great climb? It goes up 2,000' from the lake, the rock is perfect, there's little traffic, & the climbing is sustained. Amazing summit views. There's even a perfect .7ish hand crack to finish the climb (if one so desires). To compare it to Jamcrack is ludicrous. N ridge of Conness (from what I've heard) has 1 section of .6, & the rest is scrambling. To each his or her own, I suppose.

Tenaya NOT a great climb? It goes up 2,000' from the lake, the rock is perfect, there's little traffic, & the climbing is sustained. Amazing summit views. There's even a perfect .7ish hand crack to finish the climb (if one so desires). To compare it to Jamcrack is ludicrous. N ridge of Conness (from what I've heard) has 1 section of .6, & the rest is scrambling. To each his or her own, I suppose.

I did not say Tenaya is 'not a great climb.' I thought this thread was more about long, under-appreciated climbs. Tenaya is a high quality scramble with minimal approach. One of the MOST popular in Toulumne. It is included in Supertopo guide and on most good weekend days has about 4 parties on route at once. Comparison to jamcrack meant to be ludicrous, you know my sarcasm! : )

I said North Ridge of Conness if done with North Ridge of North peak and West ridge of Conness in a day. That is a ton of scrambling/climbing, and is rarely done in this combo!

Love Billy Goats Tavern. Shasta did have a 'special' feel. Maybe it was the dry climate and the oddly perfect cone shaped trees.

Not sure what it is, but I will not get tired of doing it maybe once a year or two. It's just super cool to have a mountain in the middle of everything mostly flat (especially in comparison). Some other little peaks around are dwarfed by it.

Vitaliy M. wrote:

mvs wrote: NE Arete of Sir Donald. I don't know our exact CTC time, but it was long. Lots of soloing or simul-climbing on that required for a day trip.

My friend wants to do that, I do too.

If you can pack really light, then a bivouac on the route makes it an unforgettable weekend trip, not especially hard but "just right."

So the views from high on the route are nice? I do not really enjoy to bivy, but some times it is worth it for the views IMO. Sucks to carry extra gear/food/water. I am sure there will be no snow up there to melt. Also, we will have 1 car, so unable to shuttle. Does that complicate things a lot?
How are temperatures/weather around that altitude in August? (i will check forecast when I will go, but what can I expect?)

There is also South Ridge of Mt. Gimli. If we can do Gimli, Slesse, and 3-5 climbs in Bugaboos I would be super happy. Will mostly depend on the weather.

Hey Vitaly, nice job on the Mithral winter climb! I enjoyed your partner's TR. Just to throw some monkey wrenches into your plans…
if you're gonna hike in all this way to Colchuck Lk., might as well consider the Backbone Ridge with Fin Dir. (that is if you like splendid alpine views and fun, cruiser climbing)…advertised as 14 pitch 5.9 but there's really only 1 or 2 5.9 pitches are they're casual:


on the scale of this thread, Gimli via s. ridge is about a 33%-er value wise. Easily doable c2c I'd imagine (drive to TH took us as long as the hike in…our car was overheating)


for your casual day, I'd head for WA Pass - minimum hiking & much climbing pleasure….additional suggestions for that place are the east side lines like E. face of Lexington (5.9), DEB of south early winters spire, or (slightly more adventurous) e. face of minuteman. the oatmeal of the lower 1/2 is well worth the splitters of the upper. all the bs about those is here on sp.



for a 75% day, head up into the wine spires (by WA pass) …so much good granite:


…anyway, have fun. seems SP will only let me participate in the forums only once a month or so it'll be a while before I'm allowed to respond LOL...back to my cell now.

rpc, wow, those cracks look amazing. Will research more of that! Less hiking more climbing is good for this vacation. : )

Washington Pass (Liberty Bell, Early Winter Spires, Wine Spires) have such short approaches locals call it alpine cragging and it is east of the crest and can have better weather.