I want to climb Alpamayo this summer, and I have two months off right before then. I'd like to leave for Peru in early July, so that means I have May and June to train. I'm hitting Ouray for a few days this coming March, but figured I need to do some stuff at altitude afterwards. Some thoughts I have:
- Move to Utah - Pros: I know some folks there, and I like the community. Cons: I can't seem to find a lot of technical Alpine Ice.
- Move to Seattle - Clim around the cascades and Mt. Baker. Get to play in summer Alpine Ice. I don't quite know anyone there though.
- Move to Colorado - Go climb some of the 14ers, get some rock climbing in between, get some ice exposure.
- Chamonix - Arcteryx is running their alpine academy on June 13-16, so maybe get there beforehand, and go from there.

Very much appreciate folks' help on this topic.

Thanking all of you!
Santiago

- Move to Utah - Pros: I know some folks there, and I like the community. Cons: I can't seem to find a lot of technical Alpine Ice.

There are a few alpine ice routes in Utah (such as the Grunge Couloir), but Salt Lake City is only five hours from the Tetons which have a lot more. The Wind Rivers are even closer. There is plenty of waterfall ice in Utah, when it is cold enough (the season won't last that much longer).

Move to Colorado - Go climb some of the 14ers, get some rock climbing in between, get some ice exposure.

Colorado has a few alpine ice routes and lots of waterfall ice, but the waterfall ice season won't last that much longer either. Even though Colorado has more alpine ice than Utah, at least if your in Northern Utah, Utah might be a better location because of the proximity to the Tetons and Wind Rivers.

Neither would be a bad location.

Obviously Washington has a lot more to offer when it comes to glaciated alpine terrain. Outside the summer season, the weather is a crap shoot though.

Move to New York City to acclimate yourself to the crowds - ? There will be a very well beaten path through the glacier and to the col by then, but if you're going down there your should have at least minimal glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills as well as ice climbing ability. A solid week in Ouray or elsewhere with total dedication will be plenty for that route; it is the equivalent of seven or eight pitches of WI2 with steps of 3 by the Normal Route. If you can lead solidly on WI3 you'll have a great time there

I never know what to make of threads like this one. It's kind of hard to say without knowing your experience level. Are you going privately or are being guided? Your possible itineraries make it look like you're more interested in acquiring technical skill vs. endurance, etc. If the former, why did you pick this particular peak rather than another one where you could build your skills?

For the record, I haven't done it, though I was supposed to go with a friend of mine who did, but I had to bail after accepting a new job position. He made it sound pretty straightforward, just lots of 50 degree ice for several pitches. But then he and I had a fair amount of experience: Rainer, lots of stuff in the Palisades, leading steep ice at Lee Vining and elsewhere over many seasons. Personally, I wouldn't sign on to do a big peak unless I was satisfied that my skills were sufficient to get me up and down competently. YMMV. Good luck.