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BOLTS ON AN ALPINE ROUTE?????

COME ON!!!!!!!

YA GOTTA BE KIDDING ME ...RIGHT?

THIS HAS TO BE A TROLL.

HOW FKN EURO!


If ya want Sport go to a Sport area. Don't ruin the pristiness and challenge of the Alpine World with artificial shit.



GTFOH!

Can't really help you there, but if this was PnP (and it will soon be), I'll call you "Ghe*"!

The Chief wrote:BOLTS ON AN ALPINE ROUTE?????

COME ON!!!!!!!

YA GOTTA BE KIDDING ME ...RIGHT?

THIS HAS TO BE A TROLL.

HOW FKN EURO!


If ya want Sport go to a Sport area. Don't ruin the pristiness and challenge of the Alpine World with artificial shit.



GTFOH!

Dude....

Join the local Alpine Club and get in with the Masters. They can teach ya stuff that will allow you to gain experience and knowledge so you can get out and play straight/tradly in the Alpine World.

sergio wrote:Try Patagonia. Cerro Torre, Compressor route. Plenty of bolts.

That has been CHOPPED....thank God!

The Chief wrote:BOLTS ON AN ALPINE ROUTE?????

COME ON!!!!!!!

YA GOTTA BE KIDDING ME ...RIGHT?

THIS HAS TO BE A TROLL.

HOW FKN EURO!


If ya want Sport go to a Sport area. Don't ruin the pristiness and challenge of the Alpine World with artificial shit.



GTFOH!

Hello Chief,

I normally respect your posts, but this is trolling.

I demand some degree of respect for European climbing ethics, which allow for both bolted and trad routes to coexist, whether you like it or not. Noone here is advocating retrobolting existing trad routes.

And of course it´s fucking euro (just like spelling out things...), it´s the euro forum after all.

Christian

edit: euro comment added

If you're ever in the Pacific Northwest there is a 11-pitch 5.9 bolted "alpine" climb near Mazama called Prime Rib of Goat. Despite being a "ghey" sport route it's pretty fun.

sjarelkwint wrote:On a nice alpine route in the alps?

Searching for a nice 500m wall for a first experience ... but I want it to be bolted, no trad climbing, just sport experience ...

Hello Sjarelkwint,

I´d be interested in the results of this query as well.

Planned to go to Grimsel last summer to do Septumania or one of the other 15-20 pitch routes, unfortunately that didn´t work out. There is plenty of bolted stuff in that area, have a look at Schweiz Plaisir West by Juerg van Kaenel (spelling?). What level of difficulty are you looking for?

Cheers,

Christian

I have my own opinion about Euro ethics (or lack thereof) but a couple of questions first for the thread author:

1) how hard do you climb?
2) why a 500 m wall for your first alpine outing? Seems like you're diving in the deep end for something that's new to you.

Hey Sjarelkwint,

I ain't done them (yet) but there's a bunch of climbs in the Veneon Valley, Oisans (Ecrins) that are equipped. It's an awesome area, look at Aiguille Dibona or Soreiller, there's loads more round there. Doigt de Dieu on le Meije has a final 200metres on rock- it's on my list. It's a proper mixed alpine climb, at a grade that isn't daunting, with 200metres below the summit that meets your needs, overall though, kind of exceeds your 500metre requirement but still doable in a long weekend and less technical than the above routes. There's stuff around chamonix and courmayeur too, but just because the gear is already there don't make it easy. Grand Capucin for example. There's just nothing in that area that is a cakewalk, and the routes are equipped because of their difficulty, not so that rookies like myself can learn on them.

Well, he may not know the alps but Chief is right about one thing. I'll definitely be joining my local Club Alpin. It might not look like it but you definitely have them in Belgium too!

http://www.clubalpin.be/club.html#sections

Sjarel,

Maybe it is an idea for you to go to the Ecrins in France and then go to the campingsite in Allefroide.
Get the topo for al the routes around you at the camping.
The campingsite is in the middle of everything.

I think that is challencing enough with your experience.
If you feel save there in all the routes, its maybe time to go to a big (bolted) wall.

By the way, did you ever climbed in Freyr, you might like the complete Al Legne route on the La Legne wall.
As you will know the highest wall in Belgium.

Succes.

Find a good partner for trad climbing and you'll learn quickly.

Read this and then let me know how ya all think.

Written by a EURO for EURO's. I guess he too was a TROLL!.

Murder of the Impossible

"Expansion bolts are taken for granted nowadays; they are kept to hand just in case some difficulty cannot be overcome by ordinary methods. Today's climber doesn't want to cut himself off from the possibility of retreat: he carries his courage in his rucksack, in the form of bolts and equipment. Rock faces are no longer overcome by climbing skill, but are humbled, pitch by pitch, by methodical manual labor; what isn't done today will be done tomorrow. Free-climbing routes are dangerous, so the are protected by pegs. Ambitions are no longer built on skill, but on equipment and the length of time available. The decisive factor isn't courage, but technique; an ascent may take days and days, and the pegs and bolts counted in the hundreds. Retreat has become dishonorable, because everyone knows now that a combination of bolts and singlemindedness will get you up anything, even the most repulsive-looking direttissima.

Times change, and with them concepts and values. Faith in equipment has replaced faith in oneself; a team is admired for the number of bivouacs it makes, while the courage of those who still climb "free" is derided as a manifestation of lack of conscientiousness.

Who has polluted the pure spring of mountaineering?

"Impossible": it doesn't exist anymore. The dragon is dead, poisoned, and the hero Siegfried is unemployed. Not anyone can work on a rock face, using tools to bend it to his own idea of possibility.

Anyone who doesn't play ball is laughed at for daring take a stand against current opinion. The plumbline generation has already consolidated itself and has thoughtlessly killed the ideal of the impossible. Anyone who doesn't oppose this makes himself an accomplice of the murderers."

FortMental wrote:If it were up to cranky old farts, we wouldn't have litered the moon, mars and other planets with footprints and spaceships, we wouldn't have created atomic energy, eradicated smallpox, or found America. We'd have just sat around whining that it was just too hard, impossible....

I'd rather be climbing half naked in the sun with just a couple of draws than living alone and bitter, in some cold, dark castle.

OH... that's a great reason to bolt the Wilderness. Lets just fkn it make so anyone can get up there. Let's just get rid to the challenge period.

Yur the kind of guy that would love to see the Reg Route on Fairview BOLTED!

UNBELIEVEABLE!

"Anyone who doesn't play ball is laughed at for daring take a stand against current opinion. The plumbline generation has already consolidated itself and has thoughtlessly killed the ideal of the impossible. Anyone who doesn't oppose this makes himself an accomplice of the murderers."
Reinhold Messner 1971

This was written 38 years ago. Written by the Man who to this day takes the stand. The Man that set the standard that few have been able to follow. And I choose to stand along side of him.

Bolted Alpine Routes = Via Ferratta.... NO THANKS!

Edit: Additions

FortMental wrote:I'd rather be climbing half naked in the sun with just a couple of draws than living alone and bitter, in some cold, dark castle.

If those are the only two options, I'm finding a different hobby.