So I'm planning to climb Zugspitze in late May and I was wondering what kind of conditions to expect on the Hollental route, specifically on the glacier. Should I need an ice axe and crampons that time of the year? I already know I need to get a harness and some ropes. How essential is a helmet on that route? Is there a significant danger of falling rock or whatnot? Where can I get a decent map of the area as well? I've looked online, but everything is in German and I dont know what the hell it says. If you guys could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

the crampons and ice axe might be something nice to have with you but the snow cover on the glacier should still be enough to where you won't have any blue ice to worry about. The Hollental route is the best one on the mountain I believe, by far...going up through the Hollentalklamm is amazing with the water and everything. Harness and rope...eeehhhh...well maybe. Nothing on the route REQUIRES harness and rope if you are comfortable with heights and scrambling but since you are looking at May there might be snow cover on the upper sections that would be a good idea to clip into the existing cabling. Helmet...again another maybe, not a lot of rockfall danger as the route is so well trafficked and the rock quality is not as bad that it is continuously peeling off. I really miss Europe...can't wait till the next tour that takes me back there. Other good ones in Germany include the Watzmann and my personal favorite Hochkalter.

May is relatively early for Zugspitze. So there should be snow in the route.
The glacier is not very steep and if there is enough snow you don´t need crampons. If there is blank ice crampons would make sense. For this 15 minutes on the glacier you should not need a an ice axe.
I also would recommend a via ferrata kit. If there is traffic at the route a helmet would make sense (I only would say for the first passage after the glacier).
The passage from the glacier to the top is nearly completely fixed with ropes so it should be possible to find the correct route even if there is snow.

The Hoellental-glacier will be dangerous in may. There are some big crevasses cross and lengthwise! The crevasses will be covered with less snow so you could be not able to find a safe way. In winter it is easy, there is so much snow that you can walk over the crevasses. In summer and autumn you can go around. It could be tricky in spring. Go in in group of two with a rope and there is no danger anymore. The rest is easy. I would take a via feratta kit, it could be slippery in the final section.

Take care! Have fun!
Sebastian

thanks for the input guys! what exactly is in a via ferrata kit anyways? I'm assuming a harness, runners, locking 'biners?

You could go climb it right now, the weather is amazing. Yes the Hoellentalklamm is closed but it's still passable if you don't mind a little via ferrata kind of activity.

Yes, you need a special kind of via ferrata sling for your harness (don't just use any old sling, it's worthless in an actual slip!), harness and helmet.

I did it on New Years Eve via Hoellental, it was awesome! Took the train down (lazy...).

mvs wrote:Yes, you need a special kind of via ferrata sling for your harness (don't just use any old sling, it's worthless in an actual slip!), harness and helmet.

I did it on New Years Eve via Hoellental, it was awesome! Took the train down (lazy...).

Where can I find said via ferrata sling? I checked REI, Campmor, & EMS but didn't get any results. Suggestions?

phaque3006 wrote:

mvs wrote:Yes, you need a special kind of via ferrata sling for your harness (don't just use any old sling, it's worthless in an actual slip!), harness and helmet.

I did it on New Years Eve via Hoellental, it was awesome! Took the train down (lazy...).

Where can I find said via ferrata sling? I checked REI, Campmor, & EMS but didn't get any results. Suggestions?

I strongly recommend the Petzl Zyper setup with two large nonlocking 'biners. The Zyper can take a shock load while plain slings cannot. Also, locking 'biners are not very useful on a via ferrata (throw one on your harness just in case). The large carabiners are handy when you are clipping into iron ladder rungs instead of a cable.

I found the Zephyr here: http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/shop/p ... cts_id=727

At the risk of stating something obvious, the reason you need a shock absorber is that the force of the fall you experience on a via ferrata is much greater that what you'd normally experience on a roped rock climb. In fact, the sling could blow out, the carabiner could break, etc. Plus the damage to your body in even a short fall would be high without any shock absorbing help.

Having said that I have broken the rule as well. If I'm on a rock climb which involves via ferrata on the approach or descent, I won't bring the special sling. I'll clip in rarely, and if I do clip in I know the only kind of fall that works is a gentle sagging onto the line.

Have fun!
--Michael

There is another link to the Mammut via ferrata kit:
http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp ... 4&tid=4004

sweet deal guys, thanks for the help. apparently via ferrata isnt a big thing in the US (i kinda knew that already) since I couldnt find the via ferrata slings at any US site.

phaque3006 wrote:sweet deal guys, thanks for the help. apparently via ferrata isnt a big thing in the US (i kinda knew that already) since I couldnt find the via ferrata slings at any US site.

So you could buy one in Garmisch-Partenkirchen when you come to climb Zugspitze - costs about 80 Euro. Are there via ferratas in the USA or is it special for Europe?

schmid_th wrote:

phaque3006 wrote:sweet deal guys, thanks for the help. apparently via ferrata isnt a big thing in the US (i kinda knew that already) since I couldnt find the via ferrata slings at any US site.

So you could buy one in Garmisch-Partenkirchen when you come to climb Zugspitze - costs about 80 Euro. Are there via ferratas in the USA or is it special for Europe?

I only know of one via ferrata, but I havent really gone looking for them until now. the only one in the US is still a walk up, (angels landing, http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150599/angels-landing.html) but I've done that one.

I can highly recommend the via ferrata kit "Austrialpin DB4 Stretch Y" (not the light version!)

very innovative and it has the jetlocks carabiners

thanks for all the input guys! Ill put up pics after the trip.