atavist - Aug 27, 2018 4:58 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2018

From ABC (aka helipad), one day up to 5100m camp. Second day over the Borodkin Spur 6100m and down to plateau camp at 5800m. Third day was stuck in tent as a foot of fresh powder dropped on the plateau. Fourth day was another rest day as I waited for powder to consolidate. Fifth day I traversed Dushanbe Peak and camped at 6900m. Sixth day was windy so another rest day. Seventh day was summit day and back to safety of 6900m camp. Eight day moved back to 5100m camp, but this time below the snow line. Ninth day was back to base camp well before lunch.

I started up the route at the end of a spectacular weather window. The tracks were so clear, climbers had nearly beaten the snow into a sidewalk. Some strong teams were getting up and down in 4 days. As I ascended, many people were coming down after summiting. Despite the good snow, people were still wrecked from the effort and altitude.

Once I got over the Borodkin, I was alone on the mountain. I spent 2 days on the plateau alone before a 6-man Polish team broke trail and caught up to me. I moved up alongside them and we submitted together.

The route is outstanding. Very exposed on the lower and upper ridge. Enjoy though beware of storms. They are rare but can be brutal if you are unprepared.

Lastly 5 people died while I was on the mountain. The helicopter which shuttles people to base camp crashed killing 2 pilots and 3 Russian climbers. Meanwhile, 4 cyclists were killed on the Pamir Highway, close to Dzhirgital while I was on the mountain (including 2 Americans).