Might be better, I have the feeling that there's something else to be said. Have you been there?. We are thinking about a trip to Cordillera Blanca for next year. Any advice?
You got to this one merely a couple months before I am planning to climb it...and subsequently adopt the page! Nice job though...I am a little confused on the title though. I don't know it was called "Western Pisco" is it? I thought it was just Pisco
Hi Matt,
well, my best wishes for your climbing trip in Cordillera Blanca. It's a great area. I had some beautiful climbing adventures here during three different trips. Hope you'll enjoy your trip!
About Pisco, the misunderstanding comes from the habit of summiters to call simply Pisco the summit of Western Pisco. Really there are two different Pisco in Cordillera Blanca and two different summits: Pisco Oeste (Western) and Pisco Este (Eastern). W Pisco is very popular - the most climbed peak of Blanca - while E Pisco is very rarely climbed. Eastern Pisco has some technical ice routes, which can be approached starting from the same Base Camp of Western Pisco, while Eastern Pisco normal route has quite a different approach from Laguna Paron.
Feel free to contact me if you need some other info.
Alberto
Hi Alberto, thanks for the good info on Pisco! I'll be trekking in Cordillera Blanca in 2 weeks, and will be making an attempt on Pisco Oeste. I was wondering if you could answer a couple questions about your experience on the mountain?
Can you tell me what kind of temperatures you encountered on your summit night and day? I'm wondering if I need to bring my double boots, or if a single or super-gaiter boot would be fine given the expected weather.
Also, did you need your crampons all the way from Moraine Camp, or closer to the summit?
Hi friend, sorry if I'm answering to your message so late, but i can read it only now! Usually the temperatures during the day are mild enough, but during the night you may expect some degrees centigrades below 0. Anyhow climate isn't too severe. I climbed Pisco Oeste with my double boots, anyhow my companions used single boots with success and without suffering the cold.
From the Moraine Camp you start by walking on a scree, but after about a hour you're getting to the glacier and crampons are indispensable from this point.
Good luck!
Alberto
MY climbing partner and I are planning to climb Pisco Oeste without guides or porters; if we leave a pitched tent and some equipment at moraine camp would that be kissing our gear goodbye?
It's difficult to say, my friend!
When my pals and i climbed Pisco, we left our tents on the Moraine Camp, but we had a local guy who remained at the camp and watched our gear. On the contrary, when i climbed Toqqlaraju, i left all my gear at the Base Camp in Quebrada Ishinca without surveillance and without problems!
Good luck, Alberto.
max - Sep 27, 2003 4:02 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentHi Danthauvette,
you could improve this page by adding some details.
I will be happy to re-vote soon!
[Edited on 15.3.2004] Much more informative now
thomas.schmeidl - Mar 6, 2004 9:38 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentHi,
I recently adopted and extended the page. You are invited to tell me, if you miss any more information.
Thomas
eza - Nov 18, 2003 9:41 am - Voted 8/10
Untitled CommentMight be better, I have the feeling that there's something else to be said. Have you been there?. We are thinking about a trip to Cordillera Blanca for next year. Any advice?
thomas.schmeidl - Mar 6, 2004 9:38 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentHi,
I recently adopted and extended the page. You are invited to tell me if you miss any more information.
Thomas
Rafa Bartolome - Nov 18, 2003 12:48 pm - Voted 9/10
Untitled CommentI like this mountain, I wish to climb this mountain next year. Do you have more pictures?
Haliku - Feb 20, 2004 11:00 am - Voted 8/10
Untitled CommentMore information would be helpful. How about some info on getting around Huaraz, places to stay etc.
thomas.schmeidl - Mar 6, 2004 9:39 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentHi,
I recently adopted and extended the page. You are invited to tell me, if you miss any more information.
Thomas
Buz Groshong - Jul 17, 2007 9:33 am - Voted 10/10
Primary imageAlthough the primary image is very good, it is a picture of the Huandoys; it should really be a picture of Pisco.
Alberto Rampini - May 12, 2014 3:32 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Primary imageHi friend,
i agree! I recently remade the page, featuring another picture.
All the best.
Alberto
Matt Lemke - May 11, 2014 10:17 pm - Hasn't voted
sneaky sneaky...You got to this one merely a couple months before I am planning to climb it...and subsequently adopt the page! Nice job though...I am a little confused on the title though. I don't know it was called "Western Pisco" is it? I thought it was just Pisco
Alberto Rampini - May 12, 2014 3:26 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: sneaky sneaky...Hi Matt,
well, my best wishes for your climbing trip in Cordillera Blanca. It's a great area. I had some beautiful climbing adventures here during three different trips. Hope you'll enjoy your trip!
About Pisco, the misunderstanding comes from the habit of summiters to call simply Pisco the summit of Western Pisco. Really there are two different Pisco in Cordillera Blanca and two different summits: Pisco Oeste (Western) and Pisco Este (Eastern). W Pisco is very popular - the most climbed peak of Blanca - while E Pisco is very rarely climbed. Eastern Pisco has some technical ice routes, which can be approached starting from the same Base Camp of Western Pisco, while Eastern Pisco normal route has quite a different approach from Laguna Paron.
Feel free to contact me if you need some other info.
Alberto
Matt Lemke - May 12, 2014 3:44 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: sneaky sneaky...Sounds good...thanks for the reply. So I assume western Pisco is higher?
Alberto Rampini - May 12, 2014 4:08 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: sneaky sneaky...No, the higher is Eastern Pisco, even if for only 8 meters...
Matt Lemke - May 12, 2014 4:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: sneaky sneaky...oh wow! So virtually 100% of the people who claim to have climbed Pisco are liars! lol
InaLandFarAway - May 20, 2014 10:34 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: sneaky sneaky...Hi Alberto, thanks for the good info on Pisco! I'll be trekking in Cordillera Blanca in 2 weeks, and will be making an attempt on Pisco Oeste. I was wondering if you could answer a couple questions about your experience on the mountain?
Can you tell me what kind of temperatures you encountered on your summit night and day? I'm wondering if I need to bring my double boots, or if a single or super-gaiter boot would be fine given the expected weather.
Also, did you need your crampons all the way from Moraine Camp, or closer to the summit?
Thanks a lot!
-Sasha
Alberto Rampini - Jun 11, 2014 2:41 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: sneaky sneaky...Hi friend, sorry if I'm answering to your message so late, but i can read it only now! Usually the temperatures during the day are mild enough, but during the night you may expect some degrees centigrades below 0. Anyhow climate isn't too severe. I climbed Pisco Oeste with my double boots, anyhow my companions used single boots with success and without suffering the cold.
From the Moraine Camp you start by walking on a scree, but after about a hour you're getting to the glacier and crampons are indispensable from this point.
Good luck!
Alberto
peter.lacovara - Jun 9, 2014 7:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Theft at moraine camp?MY climbing partner and I are planning to climb Pisco Oeste without guides or porters; if we leave a pitched tent and some equipment at moraine camp would that be kissing our gear goodbye?
Alberto Rampini - Jun 11, 2014 2:57 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Theft at moraine camp?It's difficult to say, my friend!
When my pals and i climbed Pisco, we left our tents on the Moraine Camp, but we had a local guy who remained at the camp and watched our gear. On the contrary, when i climbed Toqqlaraju, i left all my gear at the Base Camp in Quebrada Ishinca without surveillance and without problems!
Good luck, Alberto.
JtheChemE - Jan 25, 2015 2:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Boot ChoiceDouble boot (Spantik) necessary, or can I get by with my Nepals?
Alberto Rampini - Jan 26, 2015 12:37 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Boot ChoicePlastic high mountain boot - as Koflack - are a good choice!
Good luck!