astrange - May 2, 2016 9:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010
Classic
Huge Classic - Great route!
MtnMagic - Oct 7, 2013 4:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2013
Rebuffat
Superb climbing, well protected. Just plain fun.
Alberto Rampini - Sep 2, 2012 10:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1982
Rebuffat
A great route.
lavaka - Aug 1, 2012 2:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2012
Great route
With Garrett. Did the original/direct start and found this to be very hard; tried the crux several times, then aided it, and it felt like 6a (5.10a) *with* pulling on gear. In contrast, the "6a" pitches afterwards felt much, much easier (took me 50 min to lead the first pitch, about 8 minutes to lead the 2nd "crux" pitch).
Also for the direct start, this topo suggested you go straight up to the little pillar just below the crux. I looked at this, and it's doable, and you could take a small traverse left just below the pillar where it looked like you'd get gear. But turns out you can't get gear there; much better to go about 15 feet left, go up, and then traverse right to the pillar.
For the upper route, I made a little topo that shows how we did the upper section. There's a fantastic large crack/dihedral on basically the last pitch.
astrange - May 2, 2016 9:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010
ClassicHuge Classic - Great route!
MtnMagic - Oct 7, 2013 4:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2013
RebuffatSuperb climbing, well protected. Just plain fun.
Alberto Rampini - Sep 2, 2012 10:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1982
RebuffatA great route.
lavaka - Aug 1, 2012 2:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2012
Great routeWith Garrett. Did the original/direct start and found this to be very hard; tried the crux several times, then aided it, and it felt like 6a (5.10a) *with* pulling on gear. In contrast, the "6a" pitches afterwards felt much, much easier (took me 50 min to lead the first pitch, about 8 minutes to lead the 2nd "crux" pitch).
Also for the direct start, this topo suggested you go straight up to the little pillar just below the crux. I looked at this, and it's doable, and you could take a small traverse left just below the pillar where it looked like you'd get gear. But turns out you can't get gear there; much better to go about 15 feet left, go up, and then traverse right to the pillar.
For the upper route, I made a little topo that shows how we did the upper section. There's a fantastic large crack/dihedral on basically the last pitch.
PeteThompson - Aug 27, 2010 11:22 am
South Face, Rebuffat. Climbed July 1986Climbed with German guy as a warm up for the Gervasutti. Nice route.
pablo - Aug 23, 2010 3:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
South Face, Rebuffat2 ropes with Nico and Aure; and Francois, Florence and I got up in this thrilling, superb and demanding climb. Probably the best rock-climb ever !
granjero - Sep 9, 2009 9:51 pm
Awesome!France's version of Third Pillar, except with beer at the top!
Jeroen Vels - Jul 31, 2006 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006
Fun route!!!Climbed it on the first day I was in Chamonix. Hard work without proper acclimatisation ;-)