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8553 Hits
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74% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.60210°N / 11.75150°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Trad Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA II |
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Overview
This route is included in Dolomiten Die 100 schönsten Touren, Band 2, Westlicher Teil by Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin with Gaston Rébuffat. Actually as kind of a two for one – it is presented on the same pages as the Südwestrinne.The route was first climbed by Johann Santner on 3 October 1884. At the time this was considered quite a ground breaking climb as it was completed solo.
The climb is really very straight forward scrambling with the only the final 10 meter chimney rated at UIAA II.
It is the normal descent route on the peak.
Approach
From the west (Seceda). Kleine Fermeda & Grosse Fermeda blend together.From the Col Raiser (lift from St. Christina, see main section) follow the path to Sass Rigais as described in the main section to the base of the Kleine Fermeda S-face.
Looking at the south face, a long grass ridge is visible left (west) of the Kleine Fermeda. A small, grassy gully with a trail leads up left of an overhanging rock section to the top of that grass ridge and to the beginning of the W-ridge. Following this gully brings one to the base of the climb.
Another excellent approach for doing the climb in one day is to take the Furnes - Seceda lift from St. Ulrich. See the Seceda Website for excellent links and a great panorama map of the area. From the top of the lift it is a short hike with little elevation gain to the base of the climb.
Route Description
Kleine Fermeda West RidgeThe W-ridge starts with a steep rock step that is avoided via some easy scrambling on the north side to a small col where the short but interesting climbing starts.
Climb a short chimney and a small gully up to a region of grassy rock. Go up right to the West Ridge itself (the ridge is horizontal at this place). Follow the crest of the West Ridge up to a ledge on the south side of the ridge. Follow this ledge to another chimney (10 m high) that leads to the summit.
Essential Gear
Rope, runners, and a small rack.Credits
This page was originated by Stefan Weber aka kletterwebbi in 2003 and adopted by Fred & Moni Spicker in 2006.The information here is a compilation of our input and separate experiences on the route. Stefan did the route in ascent & descent. We did it only in descent.