Fiamma

Overview

Fiamma, Italian for 'Flame' is the photogenic summit needle of the Spazzacaldeira. Famous in the area its a real climber magnet but it's worthwhile to give it a try despite the crowds because of the exhilirating feeling of exposure you get while climbing it. Dropping away sharply on both sides into two different valleys, the view can be amazing on a good day. It can be reached by climbing any one of a number of routes that lead to the top of the Spazzacaldeira, the classic north east ridge being the most popular. The route is well bolted and a new line has recently been put up on it's northern side, details of which can be found in the Albigna hut.
Viewed from below the Fiamma looks as something that is destined to topple over sooner or later and the large crack that nearly circumscribes it near the top doesn't help. Probably just in the mind but you might want to get there sooner rather than later if this one is on your to-do list :-)

Getting There

The Fiamma can be reached from any number of routes that lead to the top of the Spazzacaldeira such as the aforementioned NE ridge. Whichever route you choose, make your way along a small path that runs underneath the Fiamma and its larger twin the Dente. At the end of the path some easy but at times exposed scrambling leads you to the base of the pinnacle. All in all it's a 10 minute walk/climb from the finish of the NE ridge.
Alternatively if you don't want to bother climbing any of the routes to reach the Fiamma and just want to add this popular highpoint to your logbook, you can scramble up to the Spazzacaldeira's top via the southern side which is also the descent route. It is easily reached from the Albigna dam by following the path that runs behind the house at the top of the dam and continues in the direction of the Spazzacaldeira's southern end. It's an easy scramble except for one very short section of II/III'd grade climbing. Do watch out for stonefall if there are parties descending this route, which there often are.

Route Description

The route starts at the little plateau at the base of the pinnacle, by the canister containing the summit register. Climb slightly to the right following the bolts and continue upwards on the northern side. Keeping mostly close to the lefthand side of the southern face of the Fiamma will see you on top after a short but challenging 5C+ length. It is well bolted but still feels exposed!
Sitting on the narrow top you can belay your second up from a solid anchor which is also the abseil point. Abseil down on the north side to just below the point where you started climbing. Scramble back down and return to the Albigna dam by downclimbing the south side of the Spazzacaldeira by an easily recognized path. The II/III'd grade section sports a bolt you can use to abseil if downclimbing is too tricky.

Essential Gear

The Fiamma is well bolted and anyway there isn't much room for placing your own gear so just bring a set of quickdraws and your standard kit of carabiners and such.

Images

View Fiamma Image Gallery - 7 Images