Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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46.33822°N / 9.63741°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.10a (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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6a+ |
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Number of Pitches:
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8 |
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Overview
1. Dente Par DenteThe route is eight pitches and about 200 meters long. It is an enjoyable rock climbing route with some interesting climbing passages. The route is rather steep and demands solid climbing at this difficulty. The hard passages and belays are equipped with bolts. The other sections must be equipped with rocks and friends, wich is not very difficult. Overall it is a beautiful rock climb on the best Bergell granite!
Don't forget to extend the route with the NE-ridge and the Fiamma. Combining this three routes gives you an unforgettable day of climbing!
2. Plaisir climbing
Dente par dente is a so called "plaisir route". Plaiser climbing means something like:
Plaisir routes are equipped very well with bolts so that hardly any additional cams/friends or rocks must be used. They lead through good rock and avoid objective dangers (falling rocks, etc.). And they move in the lower and/or middle difficulty grade.
Actually the "Plaisirclimber" has the same wishes as well as the extreme sport climber: It would like to be in nature and be happy at the aesthetic movements. It would like to gather experiences in the easier routes and improve its climbingskills, on that in the end more difficult routes can be taken, perhaps also more little well protected routes.
Fact is that such easier routes however often are badly protected; that falling in those routes is dangerous.
Source: Plaisir climbing
Getting There
See the excellent Spazzacaldeira site: Spazzacaldeira siteRoute Description
The route starts in a corner on the road from the cable car to the Albigna-Dam.
This is the route description:
Pitch 1: 5c
Pitch 2: 5c
Pitch 3: 6a
Pitch 4: 5b
Pitch 5: 5c
Pitch 6: 6a+
Pitch 7: 6a+
Pitch 8: 5c+
The route is very easy to find. Only the last pitch is a bit hard to find (don't go too far to the left).
See the picture on this page for a map of the route!
Essential Gear
Climbing gear-Rope 50m (at least, twin can be usefull)
-10 quickdraws
-about 3 friends
-rack of nuts
-helmet
-slinges
Orientation
-Map: Swiss 1:25000 #1276 'Val Bregaglia'
-Guidebook: Schweiz Plaisir Sud