Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.51733°N / 0.40677°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.10b (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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6 |
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First Ascension
J. Agulló & F. Durá (1973)Approach
From the Cabeçó d'Or parking, follow the forest road (500m) until we find a concrete slope where we take a path on the right-hand. In about 15 minutes, we have reach the base of the route. From the path, we can see the sport sector (photo)
Sport sectorRoute Description
1st pitch (IV+, 35m) Start to climb at the right-hand of the rib, looking for the arete.
The 1st pitch2nd pitch (V, 30m) Climb by the rib, and continue slightly to the left to a belay.
The 2nd pitch3rd pitch (V, 45m) Follow the logical line in the rib to a terrace full of shrubs.
4th pitch (IV+, 25m) We go back to the rib to a belay ledge
The 4th pitch5th pitch (IV+, 30m) It's possible to do this pitch together with the preceding. Climb up to headwall and traverse left to an uncomfortable and poor belay (a rusty spit & threads). It's advisable to complete the belay with a friend. (2006.06.24)
The 5th pitch
Belaying the 6th pitch6th pitch (6b - V+/A1, 35m) The crucial pitch. Climb along the crack slightly upwards to the obvious end of the route. Very few supports to the feet. To belay the second, we can do in a rock bridge at the end of the terrace . When I climb this route, we decided to free climb this pitch, and certainly, it was hard for me
The 6th pitch
The 6th pitch
The 6th pitchThe descent route is marked in blue in the main photo.
Essential Gear
Personal equipment (harness, helmet,...)10-12 quickdraw
Friends or cams
Nuts
Advisable two ropes
Large rings
Comfortable shoes for the descent
When to climb
In summer, it's necesary to start early to avoid the harder sun.In the rest of the seasons, there's no special problem, although in winter can be cold specially in the 6th pitch because of its orientation.