Serpentine Ridge

Serpentine Ridge

Leading crux pitch of the Serpentine Ridge route (pitch 4 per description). Pretty sustained finger crack with an occasional flaring hand jam (stout .8). Nelson and Potterfield guidebook has a photo of a climber on the crack system just right of this one. Not sure if I was off route? Dihedral on left is formed by the "black tower" mentioned in Route Overview Photos section (July 24, 2005).
rpc
on Jul 25, 2005 6:58 pm
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 116654

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Viewing: 1-7 of 7
M and N Denyer

M and N Denyer - Jul 26, 2005 10:11 am - Voted 10/10

Looks interesting

Looks like an interesting piece there. Congrats. Only climbing with one rope?



=) Natasha

rpc

rpc - Jul 26, 2005 11:27 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Looks interesting

Thanks Natasha.

It's not really that good of a route - this pitch is as good as it gets.

Yeah, went with 1 60m 9.2 lead line......getting lazy :)

rpc

rpc - Jul 26, 2005 11:28 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Looks interesting

PS



Nice Coligula page :) (just saw it)

Looks like one fun adventure climb!

M and N Denyer

M and N Denyer - Jul 26, 2005 3:47 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Looks interesting

THANKS, Wolf Rock was definately interesting - not a route I want to repeat - easy enough climbing, but the 130' rountouts are just not worth it. Also, quite slow climbing, as you have to check each and every hold for portablility, especially when you think of that one little stopper a 100 below you.



Nice job on Dragontail.



Mark

rpc

rpc - Jul 26, 2005 4:35 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Looks interesting

Thanks Mark.



check each and every hold for portablility

heh, heh :) NICE (and if you don't like it, put it back down).



Do you think this was worse than S. Rabbit Ear?

M and N Denyer

M and N Denyer - Jul 26, 2005 8:05 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Looks interesting

Yes - much worse - yeah the climbing was much easier, but the runnout was horrible. S. Rabbit wasn't too bad, I have done that one twice and wouldn't mind doing it again - - - now Wolf - I have absolutely not desire to ever see that route again. - There wasn't any redeeming features of it, no cool pitches in the middle or views any better than from the top, just lots and lots of runout on really bad rock. Not only was there really no protection on any pitch that would have held, I doubt the belay anchors would have held either. Cool adventure climb to say you have done, but not one I would want to repeat.

schitthaedt

schitthaedt - Sep 3, 2007 1:14 pm - Hasn't voted

This crack

I climbed this crack too and was expecting something more straightforward for 5.8. I was surprised when I had to highstep to hit the next marginal jam.

Viewing: 1-7 of 7