Spillet (Band-e-Yakhchal)

Introduction to Tochal massif

Tochal massif or the mass of mountains covering north Tehran, actually compacted with the city, are a vast east-west sub range of the Alborz mountains which build one of the most south ridge lines of Central Alborz, including some distinct peaks with the highest point (3964m) called Tochal peak or Sar Tochal.
These mountains build a big wall at the north part of Tehran. Being a part of the city, giving a great site and view to the capital of Iran.

Bases to south faces of these mountains are one of the north Tehran regions like Velenjak, Darband, Darabad, Golabdarreh, Darakeh... the slopes rise up fairly steep from this regions with about 1800m altitude.

Tochal slopes are always full of people sometimes to much crowded, there is no record of the number of trekkers and climbers but I'm sure it's one of the most climbed and trekking mountains in the world.

Click for Introduction to Central Alborz Mountains
Click for Map of Central Alborz
Click for Nader's Tochal page
Click for Nader's map of Tochal massif
 

Security is granted by the police, there are two kind of polices in Iran the green ones and the blue ones, blue is only for traffic control, greens are for security and criminal matters.

Alcoholic drinks are forbidden in Iran, Christians won't be punished for carrying, anyway most people use drinks in their house and parties illegally and they have their own illegal alcohol suppliers who supply drinks from Iranian native drinks to Russian and western drinks, if you needed drinks you can easily find it illegally.

Tehran is like a slight slope for Tochal, the down town 1200m to the north 1800m, downtown ends to central desert planes so there is no high zones to dump Tochal's view that's why Tochal can be seen from miles away. Even the weather differs about 5~10 centigrades north Tehran to South Tehran, it might be snowing in Velenjack while raining in city center! the air is cooler and cleaner at north. The city area (buildings and roads) suddenly end at a 1800m~1900m border where the mountain slopes rise up steeply from there, this is the placement of the north Tehran fault which may causes dramatic earthquakes.

Tehran has four distinct seasons, summer is dry and hot 26~40 centigrades (almost clean air), autumn is moderate half dry half rainy (polluted air), winter is cold with snow falls specially heavy at north Tehran -10~10centigrades (almost clean air), spring is moderate and rainy (cleanest air).

Tehran is Secure, too much crowded, heavy traffic, people drive in a bad and madly mood, friendly to foreigners less friendly to Iranians ;) try to stay in north parts of the city.
60% of the water supply of Tehran is from the pure water sources of the northern mountains (too pure and poor of minerals), the water supply is pure and clean anyway use bottled mineral water.

One of the hobbies for people specially those who live in north Tehran, these days is trekking on the lower slopes of Tochal at night, Bame-Tehran is the trail from Velenjak st. to Tochal Telecabin's first station, there are some restaurants, coffee shops, a gym and a pain ball ground by the trail, lot's of boys, girls and old people trek the trail, anyway I'm not too proud seeing a gym and cars driving often in the mountain area  and a paint ball ground located at the base of a secret route I used to climb.

Darband-Sarband route to south/north face -> Amateur/ practise/ beginears / low rocks / Shervin, Band-e-Yakhchal wall:

The most obvious, simple and straight forward main starting point to Tochal, Kolakchal, Spillet and Lezoun peaks is Darband st - Sarband SQ.

Go to Tajrish SQ. at north Tehran, the north street from Tajrish SQ. reaches Sarband SQ. via Darband road (take a cab shouting "DARBAND DARBAND").
Hike to Pas-e-ghal-e village1900m or bypass the boring and crowded hike using the big elevator+chair lift (for 500tomans or about half a $).

North face:
At the end part of the village there is a 3way go in to the middle branch and reach Shirpala shelter2750m by the steep but guarded rocky route.
From Shirpala shelter looking to east you can see the rocky mass of Band-e-Yakhchal and Spillet(3120m), you should go through the valley between north face of Spillet and south face of the Tochal main ridge-line.

South face:
At the end part of the village there is a 3way go in to the very right  branch and keep right (you may see
people climbing the route to Shirpala shelter at the left side of the river).
You have to climb up a zigzag route by the trees on a hilly park looking zone. When you reach the top:

(Case 1)  you will see a plane full of huge blocks of black rocks and Band-e-Yakhchal solid wall shining in front of you, walk on the rocks with care. (this is the amateur zone)
The last part gets so steep on screes, then you will reach the base of the Band-e-Yakhchal  wall.

(Case 2) The easier route to Spillet summit is obvious at right, there is a thick short ridge, keep right and hike to the summit, the upper parts needs some scrambling.