Approach
From Lake Italy, hike up the broad valley northwest of the lake, heading towards Gabbot Pass. If coming from Cox Col, descend from the pass heading directly for Mt. Gabb. Drop about 500ft to allow you to then more easily traverse around the upper end of the canyon. If you traverse too high, you will encounter cliffs on the west side of Mt. Dade. In the upper reaches of the canyon there are small tarns in a flat area about a quarter mile south of Gabbot Pass. This is a good place to get water, then head directly towards the South Face of Mt. Gabb over grassy benches and granite slabs.
Route Description
There are four distinct chutes on the South Face, though these are most evident from a distance (at Cox Col). The chutes are filled with loose sand/talus, though the quality improves in the upper half of the face. The ribs between the chutes are mostly class 3. Follow a chute or rib up depending on your preference. If difficulty increases beyond your comfort level, try climbing the chute or rib next door. The far right chute will end in class 5 rock and you will probably need to move to the next chute before making it to the summit. Following one of the chutes down is the quickest way off the summit. Be forwarned that this is difficult class 3 climbing - not on the easy end of the spectrum!
CPSLOKorny adds:
My friend almost slipped down the chute (the most southern one), he was lucky to catch a neigboring rock. I would recommend taking a rib, where the boulders are less likely to giveway under your feet. It was a tough Class 3 up. When leaving the summit head towards Mt. Hilgard and the climb is an easier Class 3.
Essential Gear
None necessary. Carry rock shoes if not completely comfortable on class 3 terrain.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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