Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.45063°N / 13.85376°E |
Route Type:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling, Skiing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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50° , UIAA III/II |
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Approach
From Mojstrana in Sava valley, you drive (or walk) into the beautiful Vrata valley. Half way into the valley there's Koca pri Pericniku (mountain hut) and on the right side of the road Pericnik waterfall itself (10 minutes walk).You proceed by the road and in the middle of the first steeper rise you will see a big scree (gravel), coming down from the right (from below Kukova spica on the left and Skrantarica on the right) ), like a river. This is called Cerlovec, in the upper part being a long ravine. There's a trailhead and also a parking place.
Route Description
You start by a big scree and on the right you see a path. If the water destroy the path here you will find it on the right a little bit higher. The path goes through a very nice forest in a big serpentine winding. This is not makred route but is often used so you haven`t got problems.Soon you come on the top of forest where our route turns left (on the right goes route to the Vrtasko Sleme) where you cross the ravine Veliki Cerlovec. Then route traverses the S slopes of Kukova spica and comes to the start of small valley Gulce. When you see a scree coming down you turn right and scramble this scree to the top. Then you have an easy small wall to climb ( UIAA I).
After that you have another scree and soon you see a ravine on the left which comes from Skrantarica`s E face. Just befor the last steep slope below the Gulce pass you turn left to the ravine.
The ravine is very steep. If you have in ravine snow 50° if it is not snow you must climbs three or four rocks (UIAA II).
When you come to the top of ravine on the right you see the small 5 meters high wall UIAAA III you climb it and you are on the top of Skrantarica.
The view from the top is breathtaking.
You descend at the same route. On the first wall you can drop by rope.
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Essential Gear
Ice pick, crampons, rope, helmet and other things for climbing.The ravine is in Winter until May, June possible for skiing!!!
Alpinistic descent!
Vid Pogachnik - Aug 8, 2004 4:25 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentBor, I heard that it is also possible not to go through the entire couloir, but to exit it somewhere in the middle and to climb to the top over rocks on the right (I-II). If it's true, this is a valuable information and could be mentioned too :-)
Bor - Aug 8, 2004 4:38 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentHm in the middle exit? I don`t belive it because you have steep wall on the both sides. But I know you can go round the first rock in the ravine and you come into the ravine from the right!
Vid Pogachnik - Aug 8, 2004 5:02 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI was looking at your pictures and it looks possible. My old guide (Mihelic & Co.: Julijske Alpe) says: You can avoid the rock step (the summit III grade) if in the middle of couloir you turn right and reach the summit in easy climbing...
Bor - Aug 8, 2004 5:08 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentAha yes maybe is possible but you must know where to go!
Tine Mihelic wrote some good guides about Julian Alps.