Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.99010°N / 11.81010°E |
Route Type:
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Glacier and rock climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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PD-/PD, UIAA II |
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Approach
SE flank - Normal route (3:45-4:30 h)You follow a well marked trail (Hoehenweg/Alta Via n°1) from Rifugio Porro (about 1:30 hours) and continue passing the easy eastern glacier named Oestlicher Nevesferner / Ghiacciaio Orientale di Neves. At about 3216 meters you overcome the snowy saddle separating the glacier already ascended and the Trattenbachkees (Vedretta di Dentro). ![On the glacier]()
The glacier
![The terminal crevasse...]()
![Bergschrund]()
From the SE-flank
The glacierRoute Description
From the SE-flankThe most interesting climb starts from the snowy saddle separating the Oestlicher Nevesferner / Ghiacciaio Orientale di Neves and the Trattenbachkees (Vedretta di Dentro). Descended few meters on the glacier on SE-side, you have to mantain the same altitude, walking below the terminal crevasse (bergschrund) since you arrive to the vertical-line connecting the glacier with the summit.
![SE-side]()
![The rocky side of the Normal...]()
In general you must descend into the crevasse and then to climb it in the most easy part (the width depends on the season, but it was not so difficult in advanced summer). Just get-out from the bergschrund you climb a short (15 meters about) snow slope (30°- 40°, depending on the snow condition). Ask to the owner of the Rifugio Porro about the bergschrund condition; every year it is different. From here you climb the rocky face (200 meters, UIAA II) up to the summit.
The descent is on the same route or along the south-face on the eastern Neves glacier climbed in the morning. It is suggested to start in early morning in order to minimize the risk of stone falling when you climb the crevasse and then the rocks.
Essential Gear
Crampons, ice-axe, rope (60 meters), harnesses, helmet are the essential gear to bring with you for this route in summer season.