Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.20000°N / 13.65000°E |
Route Type:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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Walk-up and climbing |
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Approach
Starting point of the route is Koca v Krnici hut (1113m), which lies in Krnica valley.Hut is accessible from Kranjska Gora to Vrsic pass road. Junction towards the hut is some 2 kilometers behind Kranjska Gora, just at the bridge where main road crosses over Pisnica river to the right. From the bridge is 3 kilometers to V Klinu pasture where you have to park. From here is 20 more minutes to the hut. If you are on foot from Kranjska Gora you will need 1.30-2h
Route Description
From the hut path gradually ascends up the valley till it reaches the foothills of Razor’s impressive north wall. From here it becomes steeper. Path passes by a source. Valley is becoming narrower all the time till its completely closed by impressive Kriska Stena, rounded, 400 meters high wall. It feels like at the bottom of a well as you stand at the V Kotu, scree and rocky plateau at the end of a valley, which is strewn by huge boulders.Path turns left, ascending over scree slopes, which are usually under snow, till it reaches the cliffs. Face is climbed in many zigzags because path if following natural week passes. It is very exposed and not especially well secured so you have to be careful. Not for dizzy ones. After an hour of climbing you reach the edge of the face and step onto the ridge. Altitude is 2289m and views are wide.
To here comes one of the possibilities from Vrata valley.
Then on the top of Krsika stena you follow the signposts for Dolkova spica and Skrlatica. Path is now mostly traversing large rocky slopes, going to the left, around huge and deep basin at the foothills of Dolkova Spica (2591m), which is strewn with huge boulders. On the left side is the east face of Dovski Gamsovec.
For reaching the top you have more possibilities. One possibility goes somewhere in the middle of the wall trough the not very hard groove and the over the upper scree slopes to the top. The second possibility goes on the lowest part of the ridge between Rogljica and Dovski Gamsovec and then over the NE ridge to the top.
On both possibilities you must climb around UIAA II.
You descend by the same route.
The north face of Dovski Gamsovec from Krnica valley.