Page Type: | Route |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 46.38330°N / 13.85000°E |
Route Type: | Hike, Rock Climbing, Basic Snow |
Time Required: | A few days |
Difficulty: | Walk-up to rock climbing |
This is probably the most beautiful Triglav approach. It is quite long and quite tough to go one way in one day, both ways impossible. The best way to do it is to sleep in of the huts along the way.
Section 1) Koca pri Savici hut - 7 Triglav Lakes hut – 3.30h
Section 2) 7 Triglav Lakes hut - Koca na Dolicu hut – 3.30h
Section 3) Koca na Dolicu hut - Dom Planika hut - 2h
Section 3a) Koca na Dolicu hut – Triglav 2.30h
Section 4) Dom Planika hut - Triglav - 2h
Total 11.00h
Starting point for this route is Koca pri Savici hut (653m), which stands in the glacial cirque, bellow Komarca cliffs, at the end of Bohinj lake valley. It is accessible by car from Bled, via Bohinj (36km). Parking is not free.
Before starting towards 7 Triglav lakes be sure not to miss 60m high Savica waterfall (20 minutes), source of Savica River, which is filling Bohinj Lake. Savica waterfall is thundering between the cliffs of Komarca and is one of well-known Slovenian tourist attractions.
At Koca pri Savici hut go right across the bridge over the Savica River. Wide path ascends through the beech forest, gradually at first. You reach the bottom of cliffs where huge waterfalls thunders when larger amounts of rain fall. From here it becomes really steep. Path ascends in numerous sharp bends between the cliffs of Komarca. Slope is very steep, sometimes turns into cliffs, but the path is comfortable, very well led. Where is necessary there are fixed ropes and pegs. Views are beautiful, Koca pri Savici hut is just bellow your feet, deeper and deeper. After 1.45h and 700m of vertical climb path flattens and enters spruce and beech forest. In few minutes you are at Crno jezero (1294m, Black lake). Lake has beautiful green colour and is pleasant for swimming in high summer.
Path goes around the lake on the right, above are cliffs of Stador. Behind the lake path enters a deep valley and gradually climbs through the forest till it reaches long cliff where you are surprised by a weak source. Path now climbs steeply to the right till it reaches flatter ground at the beginning of 7 Triglav Lakes Valley. Suddenly view opens on Dvojno Jezero (Double Lake, 1676m) and the hut behind it. Further behind is Veliko Spicje peak (2398m), while on the right is Ticarica peak (2071m). Path reaches the 7 Triglav Lakes hut going along the eastern shore of the lake.
Behind the hut, path heads forward along the eastern shore of a small Mocivec lake. For the next hour path has northern direction and climbs gradually, just bellow the cliffs of Ticarica (2091m), at first, then Kopica (2207m) and large scree slopes bellow them. You are now above forest line, view in front is occupied by Veliko Spicje peak and it’s ridge. Suddenly view on Veliko Jezero (Big Lake, 1831m) open is front of you. Now the cliffs of mighty Zelnarica are above us (2320m). Terrain is more and more bare limestone rock with some grass and dwarf pine. Path climbs over the few small steps and reaches shallow Zeleno Jezero (Green Lake, 1988m)
If you would like to see the upper 3 lakes, turn left here, towards Zavaska koca na Prehodavcih hut (2071m). First lake on the right is Rjavo jezero lake (2006m), than small Lake Mlaka vs Lastah (1994m), steep bellow the hut and finally Jezero pod Vrsacem (Lake under Vrsac, 1991m), which is placed below the mighty cliffs of Kanjavec (2568m) and is under snow and ice till mid July. After this tour of 3 lakes, return towards Zeleno jezero lake.
Our path turns right at Zeleno Jezero Lake and heads, gradually ascending, towards the steep rocky slope of Hribarice. In sharp bends it ascends between rocks, cliffs and over the scree slopes till it flattens at around 2300m. Cliffs of Vrsaki peaks are just above us and view back on upper part of 7 Triglav lakes valley is beautiful. In next 20 minutes path takes us across Hribarice plateau, bare rock land, where snow lasts long into summer. At the end of plateau is Cez Hribarice pass (2358m); Triglav gets into the view for the first time. It looks mighty, high and still quite far away. On the other side path descends steeply, either over the long lasting snow or scree in late summer, and goes to the left, around the Kanjavec peak till it reaches Dolic pass (2164m). From here Trzaska koca na Dolicu hut (2151m) is just in front of you.
From here you have an option to go directly to the summit of Triglav (than descent to Planika or Kredarica huts) or via Dom Planika hut.
From the Dolic pass path goes right cutting along steep rocky slopes above upper part of Velska dolina valley, going around rocky dome of Smarjetna glava peak (2358m). After a short flat section it ascends again over the bare rocky slopes, crossing section of cliffs under Rjavec peak (2568m), which is secured with fixed ropes and pegs. After this, steep scree section awaits us, path ascends in many bends till it reaches Dom Planika hut (2401m).
From the hut path descends little bit to the place where old hut stood and than turn’s right. It ascends in many sharp bends towards huge gradual slopes bellow Triglav. Long, gradual ascent over them takes us to the bottom of Triglav’s cliffs. On the left you can see the huge Morbegna ruins (2500m), Italian barracks from WW I. For decades it still resists destructive work of time quite well and can offer precious shelter in case of a sudden storm. Here we are joined by Bambergova pot trail from Aljazev Dom hut in Vrata valley. Path turns right and climbs over scree slopes bellow cliffs of Triglav. When we reach them path, secured with fixed ropes and pegs, climbs steeply to the right over the bottom of red couloir till it reaches Triglavska skrbina (2659m). Path than turns left and climbs southern Triglav’s ridge all the way to the top. Views are very wide all the time.
Behind the hut path quickly begins to climb, over the combination of rocky slopes and scree till it reaches the cliffs in some 25 minutes. It turns right through the couloir and than left, climbing steeply. Path is very well secured and has amazing views. Just bellow the Mali Triglav, after an hour, we join the path from Kredarica hut. View towards north literally explodes.
In front of us is notorious, razor sharp ridge, which was great obstacle for the first climbers of Triglav. Today fixed ropes very well secure this section and there is no need for riding the ridge, what first climbers had to do. After this flat section, path climbs steeply again till it reaches the summit, where Aljazev Stolp greets you.
Crampons and ice axe are necessary in winter and spring. In summer normal few days hiking gear.
Vid Pogachnik - Sep 13, 2002 12:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentAleksandar, krasno si to uradio!!!!
Ako imas vremena, mozda samo popravi - napisao si Zavaska koca, a trebalo bi Zasavska koca, i onda jos - Jezero vs Lastah, a trebalo bo v Lastah.
Pozdrav!
Vid
Vesa Pylvänäinen - Jul 10, 2023 11:21 pm - Hasn't voted
GPX routeHi, This route seems great and I appreciate the descriptions. Would this route or sections of it be available as GPX file so that I do not get totally lost. I have Garmin watch and could use that to orienteer. Thanks, Vesa