In September 2007 I climbed Maja Jezerces from Theth.
I want to thank the author for his south-route description, because he encouraged me to make a try. But having no guide, it
was very difficult to find the right way to the top.
Therefore I would like to give some route-additions for these-ones which are hazardous-minded enough to try it without a local guide :
From the summer camp of shepherds after Qafa-pejes-pass, M. Jezerces is in the north-east. You can see in the north of you an incision in the rocks to the right of Maja Malisores.
After climbing up for around one hour in northern direction towards this incision you reach the last green-grassy barrier and the stony area is beginning. At this point, M.Jezerces is by far more in the east than in the north of you. It means you do not continue straight further up to the north towards the incision, but now make a sharp turning to the right (east) in order to reach the south-western flank of M. Jezerces.
Some goat-pathes help you to find the way in this direction through some small stony valleys, leading gradually upwards. The south-west flank of M.Jezerces is towering steep to your left.
On the highest point of this small rocky valleys, ressembling a pass, you find some grassy spots, one is large enough to put up a small tent. On the other side of this small pass, there is the large bottom of a rocky valley down under and before you (to your east).
On the left hand (north) of this pass you see a steep stone-field which can be used to find your way into the south-west-flank of the mountain.
I put a small stone-pile here at the beginning, others which I found there already, are following.
Inside the flank you continue going up by heading to the east until you reach a "corner", which leads you to turn left. After this corner the south-face of M. Jezerces with its typical traversal lines appears before you. I advise you to put some additional stone-piles for your orientation on the way back, because in this chaotic system of rocks and caves in the west flank of M.Jezerces it is very easy to get lost in the case of fog or mist.
After reaching the south-face you will use the lower ledge which is grassy and quite comfortable. After a few hundred meters, you find a rocky couloir before you, which leads upwards. I did not try to to cross the couloir for changing to another ledge on the other side, but I followed the couloir upwards by easy scrambling, until to the west-ridge. From here you you can find your way through the rocks by heading upwards and to the left (means to the north). Not too far from the summit you find some red spots, apparently belonging to the northern route.
Generally: I would say, that this climb should only be attempted by experienced and orientational highly skilled mountaineers.
Technically it is relatively easy, I had to use my hands just a few times for a short moment. The problem is the orientation. Sudden weather-changes and the complete lack of marks after the Qafa-pejes-pass make it worse. I started at a cristal-clear day, at night happened a thunderstorm and the next day there were clouds and mist. Forget about doing it in one day. The difference in altitude is totally around 1900 mtrs, depending from where you stay in Theth.
I will be thankful for any comments or corrections of this addition.
afri - Sep 23, 2007 4:32 pm - Hasn't voted
hidden mountainIn September 2007 I climbed Maja Jezerces from Theth.
I want to thank the author for his south-route description, because he encouraged me to make a try. But having no guide, it
was very difficult to find the right way to the top.
Therefore I would like to give some route-additions for these-ones which are hazardous-minded enough to try it without a local guide :
From the summer camp of shepherds after Qafa-pejes-pass, M. Jezerces is in the north-east. You can see in the north of you an incision in the rocks to the right of Maja Malisores.
After climbing up for around one hour in northern direction towards this incision you reach the last green-grassy barrier and the stony area is beginning. At this point, M.Jezerces is by far more in the east than in the north of you. It means you do not continue straight further up to the north towards the incision, but now make a sharp turning to the right (east) in order to reach the south-western flank of M. Jezerces.
Some goat-pathes help you to find the way in this direction through some small stony valleys, leading gradually upwards. The south-west flank of M.Jezerces is towering steep to your left.
On the highest point of this small rocky valleys, ressembling a pass, you find some grassy spots, one is large enough to put up a small tent. On the other side of this small pass, there is the large bottom of a rocky valley down under and before you (to your east).
On the left hand (north) of this pass you see a steep stone-field which can be used to find your way into the south-west-flank of the mountain.
I put a small stone-pile here at the beginning, others which I found there already, are following.
Inside the flank you continue going up by heading to the east until you reach a "corner", which leads you to turn left. After this corner the south-face of M. Jezerces with its typical traversal lines appears before you. I advise you to put some additional stone-piles for your orientation on the way back, because in this chaotic system of rocks and caves in the west flank of M.Jezerces it is very easy to get lost in the case of fog or mist.
After reaching the south-face you will use the lower ledge which is grassy and quite comfortable. After a few hundred meters, you find a rocky couloir before you, which leads upwards. I did not try to to cross the couloir for changing to another ledge on the other side, but I followed the couloir upwards by easy scrambling, until to the west-ridge. From here you you can find your way through the rocks by heading upwards and to the left (means to the north). Not too far from the summit you find some red spots, apparently belonging to the northern route.
Generally: I would say, that this climb should only be attempted by experienced and orientational highly skilled mountaineers.
Technically it is relatively easy, I had to use my hands just a few times for a short moment. The problem is the orientation. Sudden weather-changes and the complete lack of marks after the Qafa-pejes-pass make it worse. I started at a cristal-clear day, at night happened a thunderstorm and the next day there were clouds and mist. Forget about doing it in one day. The difference in altitude is totally around 1900 mtrs, depending from where you stay in Theth.
I will be thankful for any comments or corrections of this addition.