Route Climbed: N slope from Red Lake Date Climbed: August 1998
Made it all the way to the Red Lake trailhead in my Bronco. Backpacked up the overgrown, unmaintained, miserable trail to Red Lake. Russ and Tony (speedclimb.com) passed me early in the day and came by on their descent shortly after I reached the lake. I spent the night there, then bagged the peak (first 14er) the following day. Hans passed me at the Split/Prater saddle. The N slope was pleasant firn, a nice alternative to what I gather is usually a scree/talus slog. Picked up my overnight pack on the way down and made it out to the trailhead in the mid afternoon. Nice peak, if I go back I'll probably opt for St. Jean's Coulior.
Route Climbed: St. Jean Couloir Date Climbed: August 2002
Boy, did I pick a bad time of the year to do this route. It looked nice from below but was filled with dirt, loose rock, wet remnants of snow and a patch of ice here and there. Climb took forever and I ended up getting back to the car around 6 a.m.
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: October 6, 2003
I was heading up St Jean Couloir, but a rescue was going on towards the top of it. No snow and a lot of rock fall. I opt for the North Ridge.
The only time I didn't bring a camera and I regret it!
I watched as the Army CH-47 helicopter fly up and down three times to evacuate the supplies and ground crew by hoist . It was very dramatic with it hovering between the peaks. Spent a lot of time watching the action and talking with a rescue guy. I guest someone reported me missing too.
I did the round-trip from trailhead under 8 hours. This was my third time up and third time completing all the Cal. fourteener's. YEA!
Oh, I made it to trailhead in a two-wheel drive truck from the campground. All you need to do is follow the pave/dirt road from the campground to the ranch. Go right to the end of the his fence, then left following the fence line, and another left at the top, and it runs into Red Lake Trailhead road. Road is very very bumpy.
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: October 5, 2003
Did a solo dayhike to the summit via the Red Lake trail. Damn that road sucks! Got to watch search and rescue team fly in with a chopper in an attempt to rescue a fallen climber. The climber had taken a fall in one of the steep couloirs the day before and had to spend the night up there while his buddies came down to call for help. The chopper made a number of trips back and forth from the valley to the mountain dropping off gear, supplies, and 4 or 5 crew. I arrived at the top of the couloir (via the North Ridge) at the same time the first search and rescue guy did. On my way down from the summit I talked more with the rescue guys and they said they would probably be spending the night up there with the injured climber. The climber had apparently sustained a broken leg and laceration to the arm. Hope no one got injured getting him out of there. He really was in an extremely difficult location to get to.
Route Climbed: North Slope via Red Lake Date Climbed: September 13, 2003
Day hiked the North Slope of Split via Red Lake with climbing buddies Mike and Alex. It took us just over 16 hours roundtrip. We had beautiful weather all day.
Route Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: 08/31/2003
Melissa and I reached the summit after a long trek from Red Lake trailhead. The endless boulderfield and talus was enough for one trip, one week, one lifetime. This particular summit completed my personal Grand Slam of climbing all 14ers in the lower 48 states, all CO 14ers, all CA 14ers and Mount Rainier. My trip report has a few more details.
Route Climbed: Northeast slope from Red Mt Lake Date Climbed: August 6th, 2003
Another successful peak bagged. Huffed it from just outside the ranch(car wouldn't make the drive) to basecamp at Red Mt Lake on Tuesday. Wednesday hit the trail at 7am, summited at 10am. Then hauled ass down to the car by 3pm. Would suggest taking a 4wd, so you don't have to hike the extra 3.5 miles!!! Weather was perfect though. Split Mt also needs a new register book. If you are heading up, please bring one with you.
Route Climbed: East Arete, South Summit IV 5.9 Date Climbed: July 1999
This could be the most awesome arete climb I've ever done. This could be the most terrifying route I've ever done. Put these two facts together and you've got a great route. Long and loose, Kenn Kenega and I are lucky to tell the tale after this climb. We got both summits on this one, walked back to camp in the dark.
Route Climbed: St Jean Couloir Date Climbed: October 24, 1998
I soloed the St Jean Couloir on good water ice in late October of 1998. The route in hard ice conditions, is propably the fastest way to get to the top of Split Mountain. Descended the North Ridge to Red Lake.
Route Climbed: Scrambled up the north face Date Climbed: June 1984
Miguel Carmona and I hiked up to Red Lake from McMurry Meadow Rd and the trailhead in 1984.. We were checking out the Central Couloir for later ascent. Since we had no Guide Book, we just scrambled up the face to the left of the Hobbs/Harrington line.
dankras - Jun 6, 2004 6:18 pm
Route Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: August 2002Great day; easy climb from Red Lake.
RSN473 - Mar 4, 2004 6:19 pm
Route Climbed: NW slope Date Climbed: July 1997solo trip to Upper Basin. Also climbed Mt. Prater on the way back to camp. Camp was raided by hungy ravens and I had to eat trout for 2 days - bummer
crag - Jan 23, 2004 12:43 pm
Route Climbed: N slope from Red Lake Date Climbed: August 1998Made it all the way to the Red Lake trailhead in my Bronco. Backpacked up the overgrown, unmaintained, miserable trail to Red Lake. Russ and Tony (speedclimb.com) passed me early in the day and came by on their descent shortly after I reached the lake. I spent the night there, then bagged the peak (first 14er) the following day. Hans passed me at the Split/Prater saddle. The N slope was pleasant firn, a nice alternative to what I gather is usually a scree/talus slog. Picked up my overnight pack on the way down and made it out to the trailhead in the mid afternoon. Nice peak, if I go back I'll probably opt for St. Jean's Coulior.
Dr. Mishuginuh - Nov 12, 2003 12:03 pm
Route Climbed: St. Jean's Couloir Date Climbed: October 2, 2003Needed crampons and ice ax for 45-60 degree ice at base of couloir.
From 11,500 to 13,500 found sttep and loose dirt and rock.
Much rock fall, helmet essential.
I was th eobject of the rescue effort noted in other reports.
200 feet from topping out on St. Jean's I took a free climb detour up the north wall. Don't ask me why!
Fell 20 feet onto a loose ledge...Thank G_d not the rest of the 2000 ft. down St. Jean's
Broken rigth ankle and deep laceration to left arm.
Climbing partner left for help.
One night alone on ledge - cold but no snow.
Inyo County Search and Rescue was incredible.
Brought water and sleeping bag.
Moved me to litter on the third day and airlifted out by Army National Guard Chinook from Pendleton Oregon.
Won't be doing that again for a while.
Maybe will return in spring to use North Ridge route when snow and ice cover much of the scree fields.
No weight bearing until mid-December!!
Doctoes orders!
Andinistaloco - Oct 28, 2003 5:36 pm
Route Climbed: St. Jean Couloir Date Climbed: August 2002Boy, did I pick a bad time of the year to do this route. It looked nice from below but was filled with dirt, loose rock, wet remnants of snow and a patch of ice here and there. Climb took forever and I ended up getting back to the car around 6 a.m.
egwade - Oct 27, 2003 10:18 am
Route Climbed: None Date Climbed: October 27Just a note to support a photo added showing the Oregon National Guard Chinook Helicopter on the rescue meission mentioned by climbers in this log.
Guilty - Oct 7, 2003 7:51 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: October 6, 2003I was heading up St Jean Couloir, but a rescue was going on towards the top of it. No snow and a lot of rock fall. I opt for the North Ridge.
The only time I didn't bring a camera and I regret it!
I watched as the Army CH-47 helicopter fly up and down three times to evacuate the supplies and ground crew by hoist . It was very dramatic with it hovering between the peaks. Spent a lot of time watching the action and talking with a rescue guy. I guest someone reported me missing too.
I did the round-trip from trailhead under 8 hours. This was my third time up and third time completing all the Cal. fourteener's. YEA!
Oh, I made it to trailhead in a two-wheel drive truck from the campground. All you need to do is follow the pave/dirt road from the campground to the ranch. Go right to the end of the his fence, then left following the fence line, and another left at the top, and it runs into Red Lake Trailhead road. Road is very very bumpy.
Rick Kent - Oct 7, 2003 7:07 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: October 5, 2003Did a solo dayhike to the summit via the Red Lake trail. Damn that road sucks! Got to watch search and rescue team fly in with a chopper in an attempt to rescue a fallen climber. The climber had taken a fall in one of the steep couloirs the day before and had to spend the night up there while his buddies came down to call for help. The chopper made a number of trips back and forth from the valley to the mountain dropping off gear, supplies, and 4 or 5 crew. I arrived at the top of the couloir (via the North Ridge) at the same time the first search and rescue guy did. On my way down from the summit I talked more with the rescue guys and they said they would probably be spending the night up there with the injured climber. The climber had apparently sustained a broken leg and laceration to the arm. Hope no one got injured getting him out of there. He really was in an extremely difficult location to get to.
sloclimbr - Sep 22, 2003 10:27 am
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: September 17, 2003Had a long and fun climb from the Red Lake Trailhead. I think the hardest part was making my legs go back down again! We did the round trip in 9hrs.
forjan - Sep 15, 2003 11:52 pm
Route Climbed: North Slope via Red Lake Date Climbed: September 13, 2003Day hiked the North Slope of Split via Red Lake with climbing buddies Mike and Alex. It took us just over 16 hours roundtrip. We had beautiful weather all day.
agorokhov - Sep 15, 2003 3:54 pm
Route Climbed: Red Lake/North Slope Date Climbed: Sept. 13, 2003Climbed it in a day from the Red Lake trailhead with friends Miguel and Mike. Had a great time.
mdostby - Sep 15, 2003 1:52 pm
Route Climbed: Red Lake/North Slope Date Climbed: Sept. 13, 2003Day hiked from the Red Lake trailhead with friends Miguel and Alex. Perfect weather. A very long and fun day!
rmjwinters - Sep 3, 2003 3:25 pm
Route Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: 08/31/2003Melissa and I reached the summit after a long trek from Red Lake trailhead. The endless boulderfield and talus was enough for one trip, one week, one lifetime. This particular summit completed my personal Grand Slam of climbing all 14ers in the lower 48 states, all CO 14ers, all CA 14ers and Mount Rainier. My trip report has a few more details.
thebeave7 - Aug 7, 2003 12:40 am
Route Climbed: Northeast slope from Red Mt Lake Date Climbed: August 6th, 2003Another successful peak bagged. Huffed it from just outside the ranch(car wouldn't make the drive) to basecamp at Red Mt Lake on Tuesday. Wednesday hit the trail at 7am, summited at 10am. Then hauled ass down to the car by 3pm. Would suggest taking a 4wd, so you don't have to hike the extra 3.5 miles!!! Weather was perfect though. Split Mt also needs a new register book. If you are heading up, please bring one with you.
Paul Spraycar - Jul 26, 2003 4:03 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 1999We spent a cold, windy night camped on the Split-Prater saddle and woke up to climb the north ridge to the summit by sunrise.
PellucidWombat - Apr 17, 2003 5:05 pm
Route Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: October 2002What a day hike! We got lost in the thick brush on the hike down in the dark, though. Only took us 1 hour to find the trail again.
PellucidWombat - Jul 8, 2008 2:41 pm
Re: Route Climbed: Red Lake -> Bad Idea route -> N Ridge Date Climbed: 9 September, 2001haha, I like the name of your route. I had no idea we were so close to each other in summitting before we met! Small world, eh?
Eric Tipton - Dec 20, 2002 8:35 pm
Route Climbed: East Arete, South Summit IV 5.9 Date Climbed: July 1999This could be the most awesome arete climb I've ever done. This could be the most terrifying route I've ever done. Put these two facts together and you've got a great route. Long and loose, Kenn Kenega and I are lucky to tell the tale after this climb. We got both summits on this one, walked back to camp in the dark.
asmrz - Nov 15, 2002 10:34 pm
Route Climbed: St Jean Couloir Date Climbed: October 24, 1998I soloed the St Jean Couloir on good water ice in late October of 1998. The route in hard ice conditions, is propably the fastest way to get to the top of Split Mountain. Descended the North Ridge to Red Lake.
asmrz - Nov 15, 2002 10:30 pm
Route Climbed: Scrambled up the north face Date Climbed: June 1984Miguel Carmona and I hiked up to Red Lake from McMurry Meadow Rd and the trailhead in 1984.. We were checking out the Central Couloir for later ascent. Since we had no Guide Book, we just scrambled up the face to the left of the Hobbs/Harrington line.