Like vanman798 suggested. I did the South Summit of Sundial via the Crazy Man Couloir, only difference is that there is very little snow now and the entire route is loose, wet, or otherwise dirty. BUT it was a very fun scramble and only required careful hand/foot placement and good judgement.
vanman798 - Jun 1, 2010 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2013
11th Hour
Sept 6, 2013 - William DaBell and I did the 11th hour route, we each lead 2 pitches.
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June 8, 2012, Tristan Higbee and I climbed Sundial Peak via the 11th Hour route. Tristan lead the first 3 pitches and I lead the last one. We meet at 10:00 am at the Lake Blanche trailhead, and it took as about 1.5 hours to reach the lake. By noon we were at the base of the route. It took us 3.5 hours to do the four pitches, so we arrived on top at around 4 pm. We scrambled up to the highest point of the North Peak, and then rapped down the crazy man couloir area (2-raps). We were back at the route starting point by 5:40 pm, and back to the cars by 7:40 pm (9.5 hours total trip time).
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May 31, 2010 - Via The Crazy Man Couloir. Decided to see if we could find a route up between the two peaks. We did find a sort of psuedo couloir, on the east side, that lead up between the two peaks, which we nick named "The Crazy Man Couloir" (cause it had several tricky spots and some very steep spots). Try it, you might like it!!!
builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 3:46 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006
SW of Corner
Back before I knew any better I tried to solo the route SW of Corner (~5.7, 4 pitches) and probably came closer than I'd like to admit to killing myself. I traversed right to easier ground (but looser!) and got off the thing.
A year later I went back and rope-soloed the route, which was a slow and laborious process, but much safer. I'd like to get back to do Eleventh Hour one of these days.
marauders - Jul 14, 2009 3:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009
Route Climbed: North Face, Eleventh Hour (5.8)
What a great climb in stunningly beautiful terrain! It began raining on the last pitch, but dried up just enough to finish the climb. This is one of my favorite places in the Wasatch.
byates - Dec 1, 2008 1:57 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 1981
Mutiple routes and climbs
This was my first semi technical Peak I climbed in the Wasatch, Did it with a WMC group when I was 18. Many returns since.
renogurt - Sep 15, 2008 1:18 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008
2:15 from TH
Almost got mauled by a moose. Superb scrambling at the end.
mcirque - Aug 7, 2008 1:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007
Via Lake Blanche / Western Slopes
Also bagged the unknown lesser peak to the north
pbogen - Jul 10, 2008 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2008
Via Lake Blanche / Western Slopes
A great scramble at the end... and a superb peak to do in the early summer when the bigger and better peaks are still snow covered. The area above lake Blanche is gorgeous and seldom visited.
Lubos - Dec 8, 2007 7:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2007
once in a lifetime
It is basically a fun climb on a long summer day, a lot of loose rock too
Matthew Van Horn - Jul 26, 2007 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
Thrice
07/26/2007 with Justin A. (Gutloaf). We Went up by the West side of the ridge and descended to the lake via the East side.
09/30/2006 last day of September with Justin A. I camped the night before near Lilian, then met my man Gutloaf as he zoomed up the trail in the dark.
07/04/2006 Independence Day with Justin A. and Travis Atwood (Tatwood).
seanpeckham - Jun 1, 2007 3:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
exciting, and beautiful!
Both times via the hanging canyon, south ridge route.
First time was Summer 1996. I think it was a Tuesday, and we didn't see any other humans.
Second time was with my wife and her parents. Saw a couple hikers and a couple climbers (who had done the Eleventh Hour route) descending on our way up. From the peak I ridge-walked to the Cottonwood Ridge for more great views and exercise.
Rocky Alps - Sep 24, 2006 3:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011
Route Climbed: Lake Blanche
Initially tried it on Sep. 23, 2006, but got a bit spooked by the icy conditions near the top and being alone after seeing cougar tracks in the snow, so I turned back a few hundred feet early. I came back 5 years later and got to the top, and thoroughly enjoyed the exposed scrambling on the south ridge. See "Secluded Scramble" trip report for details. The views of Lake Blanche and the surrounding area were awesome both times.
Jeremy Franchow - Aug 4, 2006 11:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2002
Route climbed: Lake Blanche
Great climb. Waterfalls everywhere. Found the climb a little challenging up the west slopes of the ridge.
J Anderson - Aug 3, 2006 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
Rock and Roll
07/04/2006 with Asher and Tatwood.
09/30/2006 with Asher. The snow had mostly all melted and the leaves were spectacular, making a perfect morning hike.
07/26/2007 Up from the west down to the east with Asher man.
HighCountry - Jul 6, 2006 5:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006
Eleventh Hour
This was a great route. Eleventh Hour starts up the corner on the north/northwest face. We completed the climb in three long pitches. There was a nice variety of face and dihedral climbing. The protection was thin and marginal in places but good pro could be found often enough, I suppose. Beautifuls views from the top, but thunder clouds were coming in. Two 70 meter rope raps of the trees on the east side got us down in time to hike down in a nasty thunderstorm. A natural fouth of July display of lightning and thunder.
Travis Atwood - Jul 5, 2006 12:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006
Lake Blanche to South Ridge
Beautiful area. The ridge was a lot more exposed than I had expected but it made for a fun trip. Great summit views. Climbed with Asher and Justin.
Joseph Bullough - Apr 23, 2006 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2006
Lake Blanche to South Ridge
First visit to this peak on a perfect day in April. Climbed via the south ridge, accessed from the hanging canyon to the west of the ridge.
jamesmc2 - Jul 5, 2010 2:08 am
Eleventh HourIts getting late. Nice adventurous 5.8
x4wheeling - Jul 2, 2010 11:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2010
Crazy Man CouloirLike vanman798 suggested. I did the South Summit of Sundial via the Crazy Man Couloir, only difference is that there is very little snow now and the entire route is loose, wet, or otherwise dirty. BUT it was a very fun scramble and only required careful hand/foot placement and good judgement.
vanman798 - Jun 1, 2010 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2013
11th HourSept 6, 2013 - William DaBell and I did the 11th hour route, we each lead 2 pitches.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
June 8, 2012, Tristan Higbee and I climbed Sundial Peak via the 11th Hour route. Tristan lead the first 3 pitches and I lead the last one. We meet at 10:00 am at the Lake Blanche trailhead, and it took as about 1.5 hours to reach the lake. By noon we were at the base of the route. It took us 3.5 hours to do the four pitches, so we arrived on top at around 4 pm. We scrambled up to the highest point of the North Peak, and then rapped down the crazy man couloir area (2-raps). We were back at the route starting point by 5:40 pm, and back to the cars by 7:40 pm (9.5 hours total trip time).
*****************************************
May 31, 2010 - Via The Crazy Man Couloir. Decided to see if we could find a route up between the two peaks. We did find a sort of psuedo couloir, on the east side, that lead up between the two peaks, which we nick named "The Crazy Man Couloir" (cause it had several tricky spots and some very steep spots). Try it, you might like it!!!
Pfeiffer75 - May 10, 2010 12:21 pm
Standard routeClimbed in October 2009 with the help of byates
builttospill - Feb 5, 2010 3:46 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006
SW of CornerBack before I knew any better I tried to solo the route SW of Corner (~5.7, 4 pitches) and probably came closer than I'd like to admit to killing myself. I traversed right to easier ground (but looser!) and got off the thing.
A year later I went back and rope-soloed the route, which was a slow and laborious process, but much safer. I'd like to get back to do Eleventh Hour one of these days.
marauders - Jul 14, 2009 3:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009
Route Climbed: North Face, Eleventh Hour (5.8)What a great climb in stunningly beautiful terrain! It began raining on the last pitch, but dried up just enough to finish the climb. This is one of my favorite places in the Wasatch.
byates - Dec 1, 2008 1:57 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 1981
Mutiple routes and climbsThis was my first semi technical Peak I climbed in the Wasatch, Did it with a WMC group when I was 18. Many returns since.
x4wheeling - Jul 2, 2010 11:58 pm
Re: The perfect ridge scramble.AMEN!
renogurt - Sep 15, 2008 1:18 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008
2:15 from THAlmost got mauled by a moose. Superb scrambling at the end.
mcirque - Aug 7, 2008 1:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007
Via Lake Blanche / Western SlopesAlso bagged the unknown lesser peak to the north
pbogen - Jul 10, 2008 12:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2008
Via Lake Blanche / Western SlopesA great scramble at the end... and a superb peak to do in the early summer when the bigger and better peaks are still snow covered. The area above lake Blanche is gorgeous and seldom visited.
Lubos - Dec 8, 2007 7:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2007
once in a lifetimeIt is basically a fun climb on a long summer day, a lot of loose rock too
Matthew Van Horn - Jul 26, 2007 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
Thrice07/26/2007 with Justin A. (Gutloaf). We Went up by the West side of the ridge and descended to the lake via the East side.
09/30/2006 last day of September with Justin A. I camped the night before near Lilian, then met my man Gutloaf as he zoomed up the trail in the dark.
07/04/2006 Independence Day with Justin A. and Travis Atwood (Tatwood).
seanpeckham - Jun 1, 2007 3:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
exciting, and beautiful!Both times via the hanging canyon, south ridge route.
First time was Summer 1996. I think it was a Tuesday, and we didn't see any other humans.
Second time was with my wife and her parents. Saw a couple hikers and a couple climbers (who had done the Eleventh Hour route) descending on our way up. From the peak I ridge-walked to the Cottonwood Ridge for more great views and exercise.
Rocky Alps - Sep 24, 2006 3:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011
Route Climbed: Lake BlancheInitially tried it on Sep. 23, 2006, but got a bit spooked by the icy conditions near the top and being alone after seeing cougar tracks in the snow, so I turned back a few hundred feet early. I came back 5 years later and got to the top, and thoroughly enjoyed the exposed scrambling on the south ridge. See "Secluded Scramble" trip report for details. The views of Lake Blanche and the surrounding area were awesome both times.
Jeremy Franchow - Aug 4, 2006 11:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2002
Route climbed: Lake BlancheGreat climb. Waterfalls everywhere. Found the climb a little challenging up the west slopes of the ridge.
J Anderson - Aug 3, 2006 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
Rock and Roll07/04/2006 with Asher and Tatwood.
09/30/2006 with Asher. The snow had mostly all melted and the leaves were spectacular, making a perfect morning hike.
07/26/2007 Up from the west down to the east with Asher man.
HighCountry - Jul 6, 2006 5:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006
Eleventh HourThis was a great route. Eleventh Hour starts up the corner on the north/northwest face. We completed the climb in three long pitches. There was a nice variety of face and dihedral climbing. The protection was thin and marginal in places but good pro could be found often enough, I suppose. Beautifuls views from the top, but thunder clouds were coming in. Two 70 meter rope raps of the trees on the east side got us down in time to hike down in a nasty thunderstorm. A natural fouth of July display of lightning and thunder.
Travis Atwood - Jul 5, 2006 12:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006
Lake Blanche to South RidgeBeautiful area. The ridge was a lot more exposed than I had expected but it made for a fun trip. Great summit views. Climbed with Asher and Justin.
Joseph Bullough - Apr 23, 2006 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2006
Lake Blanche to South RidgeFirst visit to this peak on a perfect day in April. Climbed via the south ridge, accessed from the hanging canyon to the west of the ridge.