The view looking down the...

View High-Resolution Image
The view looking down the...

The view looking down the...

The view looking down the Southeast Saddle Route from the upper rappel station. The middle and south summits are in the background. The easiest route from the west goes up the saddle between these two subsidiary summits, then up and over the middle summit to the start of the route. Even in mid-winter this can be an enjoyable rock climb thanks to its southern exposure. Feb 8, 2003
Bob Burd
on May 4, 2003 7:04 pm
Lat/Lon: 37.70330°N / 119.5167°W
Image ID: 20181

Comments

Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-4 of 4
Dragger

Dragger - Mar 28, 2005 4:16 pm - Hasn't voted

Approach Avy Danger on Mt Starr King in winter?

Hi Bob,



How did you like the hike/climb of Mt. Starr King in winter? I'm thinking of trying it in a couple of weeks. Can you comment on angle and potential avy danger on the approach or climb? Thanks for your time.



Carolyn

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Mar 29, 2005 10:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Approach Avy Danger on Mt Starr King in winter?

The only potential danger area I came across was the Northeast Side of the summit dome which I used for the ascent. It had been several weeks since the last snowfall and the conditions were windpacked powder. It made for great purchase, but I was still nervous. The angle is about 35 degrees if I remember correctly. There were no cliffs on the runout, but the distance was imposing. Fortunately the angle lessens continuously after about halfway up the slope. It was a great outing, and one I enjoyed thoroughly.

Dragger

Dragger - Mar 29, 2005 10:58 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Approach Avy Danger on Mt Starr King in winter?

Well, with all the snow we've been having this year I think I'd like to avoid the northeast side. I think I'll recommend that we start at Happy Isles, follow the JMT to the Panarama trail until adjacent Starr King's Southeast saddle and procede up from there. As someone who's done it, do you see any issue with that?



Thanks again for your time.

jdmorris

jdmorris - Apr 30, 2012 2:12 pm - Hasn't voted

better rappel, lower

There is an excellent rappel station at the lower cluster of blocks in your photo. With a 5' total extension (10' sling) on a super secure horn, a 60m rope got me to the top of the flake at the intermediate belay station, which made for an excellent spot for a rappel back to just above the start of the SE saddle climb.

Viewing: 1-4 of 4