"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."
--Ernest Hemingway
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GlennD - Feb 18, 2024 8:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2023
TomyhoiScramble trip with the Mountaineers.
zhong - Feb 14, 2023 1:51 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2022
Tomyhoi double takeI actually summited twice this weekend.
Saturday (10/1), after pitching the tent, I went up alone. Had the summit all to myself.
Sunday (10/2), went up again with my 2 partners of the trip right after sunrise. We had the summit to ourselves.
Helmet recommended, especially if there're others climbing at the same time. I ditched ice axe and crampons in the tent.
There's a short stretch of snow, but can be walked carefully in just boots and poles. Spikes will be helpful here.
The tricky part is getting on the ridge. On Saturday, I attempted 3 different routes (see this photo. The one we ended using is the right most one. But you have to scramble up large rocks with a bit of loose sand on them. Not too bad. See this photo for the approach of this route). You'll see a large cairn once you are up there. From then on, it's straightforward. Yes, some exposure, but rocks are solid with good hand/foot holds.
On our way back on Sunday, saw many people trying to go up without helmet.
Fall color is amazing here.
Mike Horm - Aug 7, 2022 7:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2022
Worth itCountless visual rewards along the way. Lots of ridge time allowing views in all directions. Boot path was clearly defined for much of the ascent. A couple of snow fields to cross. Very little snow overall. Final 1/2 mile to summit provided multiple challenges related to route finding. The snow field just prior to the summit block requires ice axe. Snow was soft enough to kick steps without crampons. Final ascent has moderate exposure with mostly good rock with lots of good holds. Great fun!
Redwic - Sep 5, 2020 8:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2020
High Quality PeakGreat trail to ridge. The final summit ridges were dicey and spicy at times. We were the only ones who got to the summit because nobody else we encountered on the way up had a helmet, ice axe, and/or crampons. Fantastic views. Highly recommended for experienced climbers.
Norman - Sep 3, 2019 8:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2019
Tomyhoi successBeautiful weather on summit day, no one else on the mountain, Nick and Norman
rtgomez90 - May 21, 2017 4:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2015
TomyhoiGreat introduction to Cascade scrambles.
JLuthanen - Jun 22, 2015 10:28 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2015
Long fun kickoff to summerThis was more than I was expecting ... I guess I hadn't looked at or thought about overall gain and loss of elevation prior to climbing. Three solid sections where you end up gaining a lot and losing a lot starting at the camp near the lakes (felt a bit demoralizing after awhile). The final scramble made it all worth it
Euphonia - Dec 18, 2014 6:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2014
Beautiful DayFantastic Mountain. Best climb of the year.
wyomtman - Aug 8, 2014 9:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2014
AlmostAmazing view, just touched the top of the south ridge...
Travis_ - Aug 27, 2013 5:53 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2013
Backpacking summitSpent the night at tarns and summited the next day, amazing.
https://facebook.com/travis.linds?__user=711895646
puddlecruiser - Oct 15, 2012 11:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2012
Lots of exposureBreathtaking, clear skies with a Supreme view. I could see the Olympic Peninsula, deep into Canada, smoke from fires way to the south, and the N Cascades were all in crystal clarity. Lots of air up there. It gave me the jitters. There was a 1" PVC holding the summit log when I was there. Amazingly, a 77 year old man did the climb the same day. If you're not comfortable with severe exposure, this scramble will give you pause, or even make you turn back.
jacobsmith - Sep 24, 2012 12:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012
TomyhoiAir was smokey as hell, so no views to speak of but the climb itself was fun. Ice axe and crampons were definitely not needed. I would question whether several spots can really be considered class three, simply due to the steepness and exposure, but whatever.
tcingrum - Sep 17, 2012 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2012
MemorableIncredible scenery. Have to go back
Karl Helser - Sep 16, 2012 10:34 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2012
Very fun...Very fun and straight forward climb. Camped at the tarns. I never saw so many dogs in one wilderness area. I later found that this area is one of only a few areas that allow dogs. Did a nice sunset trip up to Yellow Aster. Almost snow free... Leave the ice axe and crampons at home.
RyanHoover - Aug 28, 2012 1:41 am Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2011
SE RidgeMake sure to find the right path to the ridge, if it feels to hard it is. If the snow is gone, you can bypass the knife edge on a ledge to the right. Very fun climb.
fjes6 - Aug 11, 2012 10:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2012
Great FunNot bad, car to car in 8 hours. The final scramble was much fun! We had a Golden Retriever with us who also made the summit under her own power... Not to scary!
setrent - Oct 21, 2011 1:23 am Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2010
SE RidgeShould have brought the skis! A neat scramble in an scenic area. The final 100 feet is fairly exposed, bring a rope if uncomfortable with exposure.
MMclimbhigh - Oct 4, 2011 8:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2004
SE RidgeGreat, exposed scramble. Well worth the approach. Don't forget to take a dip in the lakes at BC.
Maria - Sep 18, 2011 8:33 pm Date Climbed: Oct 17, 2010
TomyhoiFun :)
ericnoel - Oct 18, 2010 11:27 am Date Climbed: Oct 17, 2010
TomyhoiThis was definitely tougher than expected. But we made it. It was a great day in the mtns with clear skies and the North Cascades out in force with a little dusting of fresh snow.