Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 48.67139°N / 121.1494°W |
County: | Whatcom |
Activities: | Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
Elevation: | 7360 ft / 2243 m |
Pinnacle Peak is the second highest summit on the north-trending ridge extending from the Colonial-Neve Col, and the Snowfield group. It is flanked on the east by cliffs overlooking Colonial Glacier, and on the west by cliffs, steep slopes, and Ladder Creek.
Approach as per Pyramid Peak.
As per Beckey Guide Vol 2:
East Route: Begin off snow near NE corner of glacier. There is a class 3 route to the ridgecrest just N of the summit.
North Ridge: From highest snow on NE corner of glacier, bear around N to the North Ridge. The first pitch is loose, then two solid pitches follow; the summit is at the far end. Rating: class 3-4.
Southwest Route: From the col facing Paul Bunyan's Stump on the SW, traverse W to a gullyy (snow finger) on Pinnacle's SW corner. Here, moderate left-bearing slabs lead to the ridgecrest just N of the summit block. This is gained by a 40 ft face - a steep class 4 section (both other routes completed here). Rating: class 4.
As this is in the North Cascades National Park, you will need a camping permit, and a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. Parties are limited to a maximum of 6 people
Given the steepness and looseness of the rock, and the relative difficulty and exposure of all the routes, it is only really feasible in late spring through early fall, before the first snows.
There are flat spaces and prepared sites on the ridge just below Pyramid Peak, in the Colonial Glacier Basin, and at the Colonial-Neve Col. If you come late enough in the season, Pyramid Peak's summit itself also has a few small tarns and plenty of flat spaces to camp on.
Pyramid Peak Climb August 2019