Page Type: | Route |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 45.62140°N / 7.47482°E |
Route Type: | Mountaineering |
La montagna chiama i suoi figli, ed essi rispondono fedelmente al suo appello… Osvaldo Cardellina, Diario alpinistico, 1964-65Page texts: @ OsvaldoCardellina "Osva", passed away on May 2, 2022. Page owners: Christian Cardellina e Osvaldo Cardellina. Any updates from September 12, 2022: Antonio Giani, page administrator, friend and climbing companion. Testi della pagina: @ OsvaldoCardellina "Osva", scomparso il 2 maggio 2022. Proprietari pagina: Christian Cardellina e Osvaldo Cardellina. Eventuali aggiornamenti dal 12 settembre 2022: Antonio Giani, amministratore della pagina, amico e compagno di salite. |
01) - N-NW Arête Normal Route from Lillaz: (from Lillaz (Cogne's Village) - Urtier Valley Invergneux's Pass 2.902/5 meters: by routes 10A, 10, High Route n° 2 and 10D TVC (= TOUR of the Cogne's Valley - Great Paradis) Goilles's Dessus Little Village 1.869m - little bridge 105m in Taverona/of Farcoz/Seutse Torrents - little bridge 160m in Gueula's Torrent Crest Alp (ruines) and "Alpine Toups Chapel" (fountain) - little bridge 2.190/5m to "Cote Piemont" (=rocky coastline. In ancient times transit/passage and land iron transport, "magnetite" (loadstone), renowned in the world, from Cogne, Mount Creya Area (Colonna's/Costa's del Pino and Larsinaz's Seams/Veins), to Piemont Region by of the Arietta, Miserino, Scaletta, Rancio's Bocchetta and Acque's Rosse or Eaux's Rousses also Reds Waters's Pass" in Urtier's Torrent - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little brige 2.360m in intersection of the, from North or left, Urtier's/Ponton's and Peradzà's Torrents - Pianas's/Invergneux's Alps - Invergneux's Alps and Pass (2.902/5m) - Serra Madù or Madou (Quota 3.220m) - sides South and East of the Tessonet or Doreire Glacier (in descent from Summit Madou Serra's to glacier) in crossing Southwest/Northeast to pass's base quota 3.200/10 meters and West Slope Tersiva's Pass 3.312m): Pietro Balbassarre Chamonin, Cogne's Curate, and one unknown student; Aug 23th, 1842; First in winter Mario Aldrovandi and wife with Giuseppe Vassoney, mountain's guide of Champorcher; Jan th?, 1930. First skiing Aldo Bonacossa & Company; ? th? 1921; difference in level 1.900m; 300 in terminal part; (35°/30°/42°); F+/PD/F+.
"L'Alpinista" 1875/77 - Magazine of the C.A.I., page 106, Edit, by C.A.I. "Guide de la Vallée d'Aoste", by Charles Bich and Aimé Gorret. Edit Casanova in Turin, 1876. " Bollettino del C.A.I. 1903 -Bulletin of the C.A.I., page 15. Edit. by C.A.I. in Turin 1903/69. "Guida della Valle di Cogne" and " Guida della Valle di Champorcher ", by Mario Aldrovandi. Edit. Lattes in Turin, 1930/32. "GUIDA della REGIONE AUTONOMA della VALLE D'AOSTA", by Mario Aldrovandi, page 150, 195 and 289. Edit. S.P.E. of Carlo Fanton in Turin, Dec 31th, 1964. "Gran Paradiso ITINERARI SCELTI ALPINISTICI ED ESCURSIONISTICI DEL VERSANTE VALDOSTANO", by Pierandrea Mantovani and Renato Misischi, pages 24/5 ( Tersiva ... 1 Per il versante Ovest e la cresta Nord-Nord-Ovest). B&W Map 2 cm: 1.000m in page 22. Edit. Rassegna Grafica RASSEGNA ALPINA in Milan, Jun, 1974. "80 itinerari di escursionismo alpinismo sci alpinismo in valle d'aosta", by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 86/7. Edit. Musumeci in Aosta, Jun 1977.Reprint Jul 1981; third Edit. Jul 1984. In French February, 1978 and March, 1980. "IL PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN PARADISO VOL. 2° Valli di Champorcher - Clavalité - Saint Marcel - Laures - Cogne - Valsavarenche - Conca di Pila", by Giulio Berutto, page 166. Edit Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino in Turin, Nov 21th, 1981; reprint Juny 2000. "Gran Paradiso itinerari alpinistici e sci-alpinistici", by Franco brevini, pages 52/3 ("1a Versante sud e cresta nord-ovest Via normale dall'Urtier"). Edit. Musumeci in Aosta, Jun, 1982. "VALLE D'AOSTA oltre il sentiero 60 itinerari di escursionismo impegnativo e di alpinismo facile dal Mont Avic al Monte Bianco", by Pietro - Matteo Giglio, pages 42/4. Edit. CDA Centro Documentazione Alpina Torino in Turin, Mar 1993. "a piedi in VALLE D'AOSTA VOL. II 116 passeggiate, escursioni e trekking alla scoperta della natura", by Stefano Ardito, pages 225/6 (route 728: "Nel Vallone del Grauson" and 227/8 (route 729: "Punta Tersiva (3.515m)", Edit. GUIDE ITER in Subiaco (Rome), Jul, 2004. "Gran Paradiso Gebietsfuhrer fur Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Kletterer", by Gerd Klotz, page 224 ( "615 Punta Tersiva, 3.515m ... 616 Nordnordwestgrat"). B&W photograph in page 225 (Punta Tersiva von Norden R 616 Nordnordwestgrat). Edit. BERGVERLAG ROTHER GMBH. MUNCHEN, Bad Orb, im Fruhjahr 2005. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, pages 41 and 156/7. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar, 2005. University's of Turin Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva) by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina; (unpublished), 2009. "Diari Alpinisici Ascensioni 1964/2013", di Osvaldo Cardellina con Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni 1964/2013 (inedito) - "Mountain' Diarys Ascents 1964/2013", by Osvaldo Cardellina with General Index and Report's of Ascents 1964/2013 (unpublished).
01bis) - OLD VARIANT HISTORIOGRAPHIC deserted for dangerouness of the glacier; noumerous crevices extant. As a historiographic title integrated; (from Invergneux's Pass: or Hevergnes's also Invergnaou's (= of Winter Pastures's. In ancients times for the whole winter populated; altitude 2.524m!). Invergneux Pass (2.902/5m) - West Slope Serra Madou or Madù - ancient passage 3.178m at NW base Serra's to Tessonet'/Doreire's Glacier,S-SW sector - crossing SW/NE to base of the Tersiva's Pass 3.312m). First in route? In the mists of time by inhabitants of the valleys in transit from Champorcher's Valley - Dondena Alps (by Pontonnet's Pass and West three littles Lakes also called by Fenetre Pass - source 2.742m - little lake 2.756m - source 2.673m - Lake and Alp of the Ponton's Tower - Baita Orlando to Invergneux's Pass). Also called from Urtier's Valley by Crest (Ancient Alp and Old Chapel, at present to war memorial of the Alpine Troups Corps dedicated) , Tvavanis's/Pianas's/ Invergneux's Alps and Pass to of the Grauson/Doreire and Grauson's/Lussert's Valleys, round trip.
"GUIDA della REGIONE AUTONOMA della VALLE D'AOSTA", by Mario Aldrovandi, page 289. Edit. S.P.E. of Carlo Fanton in Turin, Dec 31th, 1964. Priv. inf. by Vincenzo Perruchon in Cogne, Hotel "Roccia Viva", August 1990. Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Studys's University of Turin, Faculty Mathematicals, Phisics and Naturals Sciences/Course Degree. Turin Apr 24th, 2009. Priv. inf. by Renzo Jeantet in Lillaz (Cogne), Jun 02th, 2009. Priv. inf. by Ezio Savin in Cogne Jun 02th, November 15th, 2009 and Mar 22th, 2010.
02) - N-NW Arête Normal Route from Dzimillan and Grauson/Doreire Valley: (from of the little bridge 1.840m upon Gimillan's Torrent (in NE of the Gimillan Village) or Gemillan (Dzeme(i)llan in "patois"(= language)of Aosta Valley's) by route 8 and TVC to Grauson's/Lussert's/Doreire's-Tessonet's Valleys - Reventis Alp (ruins) - Tarabouc Alp 1.831m ( Ancient Chapel) - Ecloseur's Little Chapel - Tzecheu Lower Alp - Ecloseurs's little bridge upon Lussert's/Corona's/Doreire's/Money's Stream and Alps - Pila's Waterfalls Alp - Grauson or Groson Vieux Alp (in tableland "Pré-Vaudan Source" near Ervillières and variaous Torrents) - Grauson/Doreire Valley: Bridge 2.298m on Money's/Tzte's/Grauson's/Ervillières's/Doreire's and Corona's Torrents - Pralognan Alp - Ervillères Alp - section of left in edge (North) Tessonet's/Doreire's Glacier's to pass's base 3.200/10 meters and West Slope Tersiva's Pass 3.312m): D. W. Freshfield and F. Dévouassoud; Aug th?, 1877; First in winter (absolute of the mountain) Giuseppe Corona & Company Feb 02th, 1875; difference in level 1.800m from Gimillan Village; 300m (terminal part); (35°30°/42°); F/F+.
"DAL MONVISO AL SEMPIONE 105 gite con gli sci in Val d'Aosta, Susa, Lanzo, Ossola e altre undici valli delle Alpi Occidentali", by Roberto Aruga and Cesare Poma, pages 106/7. B&W phopo with track in page 107.B&W Map" 1,7 cm:2 Km in page 106. Edit. CDA Centro Documentazione Alpina Torino in Leynì, May, 1979. "3 IL PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN PARADISO Vol. 2° Valli di Champorcher - Clavalité - Saint Marcel - Laures - Cogne - Valsavarenche - Conca di Pila", by Giulio Berutto, pages 158/160 and 287 (ski-mountaineering route). Edit. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino in Turin, November 21th, 1981; reprint Jun 2000. "Gran Paradiso itinerari alpinistici e sci-alpinisti", by Franco Brevini, page54 ("1b Versante ovest e cresta nord-ovest Via normale dal Grauson") and in Second Part ski-mountaineering routes in pages 192/3 ("Punta Tersiva 3.515m"). Edit. Musumeci in Aosta, Jun, 1982."Gran Paradiso itinerari escursionistici 2, by Franco Brevini, pages 116/7 ("55 Traversata Gimillan (1.787 m) Vallone del Grauson Passo di Invergneux 2.905m Vallone dell'Urtier Lillaz 1.617m"). Edit. Musumeci in Aosta, July, 1982."a piedi in VALLE D'AOSTA VOL. II 116 passeggiate, escursioni e trekking alla scoperta della natura", by Stefano Ardito, pages 221/3 (route 724 "Nel basso Vallone dell'Urtier" and "Nel Vallone dell'Urtier") and pages 227/8 (route 730 "Punta Tersiva (3.515m)". B&W Map 1 Km: 1,6 cm in page 184; with tracks in green of the routes. Edit GUIDE ITER in Subiaco (Rome), Jun 2004.
Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Studys's University of Turin, Apr 24th, 2009.
(Besides see above 01 of the: 1875/77, 1876, 1930/32, 1964, 1990, 1993 and 2005 (2 edit.)) and 01bis.
03) - N-NW Arête Fénis's Tersiva Pass: (from Fénis little Town, Barche Village - Arbussayes - La Cerise - Le Plan-Mayen - Le Leffrey - La Servettaz - Lovignana (1.169m) (warning notice for motor vehicles; by route's signals n° 2A) - Les Fontaines - Marqueron - Robbio or Robioz Village/Alp (1.564m) (fountain near Clavalité's Torrent) and Clavalité's Tableland numerous littles villages and alps: Le Chapieux, Chez-Ramin, Bayette Dèsot (=Lower) Chez-Boz or Chez Boche, Milana (Notre Dame de Neige old Chapel), Rovarey, Les Maisonnasses (1.534m) - Maison-Blanche, Chardonney, Bioley Dèsot and Damon (= Upstairs or Higher), between the Bioley's and Bayette's Forests,(various fountains) . From Bioley's Damon/Crin's crossroads 1.551m by signals n° 5 to Val Fénis, by two routes:
A) - in left (E), by a dirt road (Revers's Wood, crossroads Crin's 1.587 meters, Revers, Coujeic, Beneyte, crossroads 1.753 meters, near Clavalité's Torrent.
B) - in right (W), by path along Clavalité's Torrent to La Coutà/Celey Damon/crossroads 1.753 meters.
From junction 1.753m to Bayet, Meney Dèsot, di Meitin and Damon (= Lower,Half/Middle and Higher), to Etsely's Lower Alp crossroads 2.027m. From crossroads by signal n° 6 to Grand Alp 2.120m (= Great Pasture). From Grand Alp in NW, by route n° 7, 102 to Lavodilec Lake until quota 2.127m, then in SW without tracks in "High Little Comba" (=little valley) Tersiva's - right side (North) of the Tersiva Old Glacier (by that time pratically extinct and in permafrost effect-phase) to pass's base quota 3.050/100 meters and East Slope Tersiva's Pass): First? Giovanni Bobba and G. Pession; Sep 08th, 1901, in ascent; A. Lucat, A. Decaroli and J. J. Maquignaz; Aug. 02th, 1875, in descent. First skiing Toni Ortelli, Venturello, Zangelmi & company, in descent; Apr 25th, 1942; diff. in level 2.950m from Barche; 400/50m (term. part); PD+.
"GUIDA della REGIONE AUTONOMA della VALLE D'AOSTA", by Mario Aldrovandi, page 195. Edit. S.P.E. of Carlo Fanton in Turin, Dec 31th, 1964. "IL PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN PARADISO Vol. 2° Valli di Champorcher - Clavalité - Saint Marcel - Laures - Cogne - Valsavarenche - Conca di Pila", by Giulio Berutto, pages 83/6 ("A 31 TRAVERSATA DAL RIFUGIO MISERIN A FENIS PER IL COL FENIS 2.831 m" ; "B 1 PIANO DI CLAVALITE' 1.514 m" ; page 94 ( "B 7 TRAVERSATA DAL PIANO DI CLAVALITE' AL RIFUGIO MISERIN PER IL COL FENIS 2.831m"). Page 94 ("C 2 TRAVERSATA DA LES DRUGES (S. MARCEL) AL PIANO DI CLAVALITE'"). Edit. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino in Turin, Nov 1981; reprint Jun, 2000. "a piedi in VALLE D'AOSTA VOL. II 116 passeggiate, escursioni e trekking alla scoperta della natura", by Stefano Ardito, pages 185/7 (route 612 "Da Lovignana al Piano di Clavalité" and route 613 "L'anello dei valloni di Savoney e di Fénis". B&W Map 1 Km:1,6 cm with tracks, in green, in existence, page 184. Edit. GUIDE ITER in Subiaco (Rome), Jun, 2004. Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Studys's University of Turin 2009. Priv. inf., remarks, reports and connections , by Battista Pieiller Nov/Dec, 2009 and Jan 18th, 2010. Priv. inf., remarks and reports, by Maurice Gaillard Nov/Dec 2009.
04) – N-NE Wall Central and Superdirect Route: (from Fénis, Barche Village - Clavalité' Tableland - Robbio (fountain) - Val Fénis - "High Little Comba" Tersiva's - middle area of the Tersiva's Glacier (See route 03) to wall's base quota 2.860/5 meters): Gigi Panei and Lucien Salval; Sep 05th, 1937; d. in lev. 2.950m from Barche; 650m (term. part); (40°/45°/50°); AD-/AD+/AD. (See route 03).
Sole Document, in the Summit retrouved by Osvaldo Cardellina, in Sep 08th, 1974. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 158. Erroneus Micky Salval (son) but Lucien Salval. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar, 2005. Thesis " Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Studys's University, Naturals Sciences, of Turin 2009. (Besides see route 03).
04) bis – N-NE Wall Left Route, new route, and E-NE Arête: (from Fénis, Barche Village - Clavalité Tableland - Robbio (fountain) - Val Fénis - "High Little Comba" Tersiva's - middle sector of the Tersiva's Glaciers to face's base quota 2.860/5 meters): Maurizio Gaillard, Valpelline's mountain's guide of Fénis and Sergio Pession; Dec 26/27/th, 1980; d. in lev. 2.950m from Barche; 650m (term. part) (470m+180m in N-NE Ar.); (40°/43°/48°); AD/AD+/AD-.(See route 03).
"Montagnes Valdotaines" - Magazine Section's C.A.I. of the Aosta, Year VII n° 1 (17), page 7, May, 1981. Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Faculty of the Naturals Sciences Turin's, Apr 24th, 2009. Privates Informations, remarks, reports and connections by Maurice Gaillard Nov/Dec, 2009. Priv. inf., reports and remarks by Sergio Pession Dec 2009 and Jan, 2010. (Besides see route 03).
04)ter – N-NE Wall Right Route, new route:(from Barche Village - Clavalité Tableland - Robbio - Val Fénis - "High Little Comba" Tersiva's - middle zone of the Tersiva's Glacier to wall's base quota 2.860/5 meters): Battista Pieiller, of Fénis and Andrea Piccot of Fénis; Jul, th?, 1979; First in winter Maurizio Gaillard, Valpelline's mountain's guide and Sergio Pession, of Quart; Jan 04th, 1984; d. in lev. 2.950m from Barche>; 650m (term. part); (40°/45°/50°); AD-/AD+/AD.(See route 03).
Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Faculty of the Naturals Sciences Turin's Course-Degree; Turin Apr 24th, 2009. Priv. inf., remarks and reports by Maurice Gaillard Nov/Dec 2009 and Jan 2010. Priv. inf. by Sergio Pession December, 2009 and January, 2010. Priv. inf., reports, remarks and connections, by Battista Pieiller Nov/Dec 2009 and Jan 18th, 2010. (Besides see route 03).
04 quater - N-NE Wall Direct to Summit:(from Barche - Clavalité Tableland - Robbio - Val Fénis - "High Little Comba" Tersiva's - middle area of the Tersiva's Glacier to quota 2.860/5 meters at of the face base): Battista Pieiller, solo; Jul th?. 1981?; 1° replay Battista Pieiller, of Fénis, and Sergio Pession, of Quart; Jul th?, 1982 or '83?); d. in lev. 2.950m from Barche; 650m (term. part); (40°/47°/52°); AD-/AD/AD+.
(See route 03).
Thesis "Variazioni Galaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Faculty of the Naturals Sciences Turin's, Apr 24th, 2009. Priv. inf., remarks,reports and connections by Battista Pieiller Nov./Dec. 2009 and January 18th, 2010. Priv. inf., remarks and reports by Sergio Pession Dec 2009 and Jan 2010. (Besides see route 03).
05) – E-NE Arête "Fénis's Crest": (from Barche - Clavalité - Val Fénis - "Tall Little Comba" Tersiva's - North-northeast side of the Point Tersiva's Glacier to ridge's base quota 2.220/2.500/2.700/3.000 meters about by various of the Opening VARIANTS): Carlo Giachino, O. May, Giuseppe Pollano, Enrico Bravo, Bartolomeo Garelli, A. Verani-Masin, Angelo Perotti,of Turin?, and Aimé Maquignaz, Valtournenche's Mountain Guide; Jul th?, 1892; replay by Battista Pieiller, in several times (40 or 50?!!!) Battista THE KING of East-northeast Ridge !!! d. in lev. 2.950m from Barche; 800/1.000/1.300m (opening' variants) and 500 meters in term. part; PD+/AD/PD with passages of IV°-/IV° on edge.(See route 03).
"RM C.A.I. 1901, pages 246 and 297; " RM C.A.I. 1902", page 400. "Bollettino C.A.I. 1908, page 150. Edits. C.A.I. in Turin, 1901, 1902 and 1908. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, pages 158/9. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005. Priv. inf., remarks, reports and connections by Maurice Gaillard Nov/Dec 2009. Priv. inf., remarks and reports by Sergio Pession December 2009. Priv. inf., remarks, reports and connections by Battista Pieiller Nov/Dec 2009 and Jan 18th, 2010. (Besides see route 03).
06) - SE Wall Fénis's: (from Barche - Clavalité - (of route signals 2 (or 2A between Lovignana/Marqueron) and 5) Val Fénis Meney (1.949m) and Grand'Alpe Pastures (2.120m) - "High Great Comba" Tersiva's, by route's signal n° 6 - Grand Raye or Reye = Great Balcony/Dress circle) to face's base quota 3.060/70 meters): unknown; diff. in lev. 2.950m from Barche; 2.400m from Lovignana Alp (1.169m); 1.400m from Grand'Alpe; 450/60m (t. part); PD-/PD/PD+?.(See route 03).
Priv. inf., by Battista Pieiller Nov./Dec., 2009 and Jan 18th, 2010. (Besides see route 03 and in "PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN PARADISO", by Giulio Berutto in page 84 "A 32 GIRO DELL'ALTA VALLE DI CHAMPORCHER: LAGO MISERIN - FINESTRA DI CHAMPORCHER - COLLI FENIS E PONTONNET" and in page 94 "TRAVERSATA DAL PIANO DI CLAVALITE' AL RIFUGIO MISERIN PER IL COL FENIS 2.831m". iN PAGE 96 "B 9 TRAVERSATA DAL PIANO DI CLAVALITE' A LILLAZ PER I COLLI FENIS E PONTONNET 2.897m". Edit. Istituto Geografico Caentrale Torino in Turin, Nov 1981; reprint in Turin Jun 2000).
06)bis - E-SE Slope "Grand Raye's" Route; Fénis's Normal Route: (from Fénis-Barche - Robbio in the Clavalité's Tableland - Grand Alp in the Val Fénis - "High Great Comba" Tersiva's (roads signals n°2/5/6) - Grand Raye (Dress Circle) to quota 3.060/70 meters around at base of the Grand Raye's Great Couloir and Pass (3.457m) and terminal part S-SE Crest's): unknown. Old normal Route for Fénis's mountaineers.
First ascent: unknown; diff. in level from Barche 2.950m; from Lovignana 2.400m; from Grand'Alpe 1.400m; Raye's Great Couloir (Gully) 400m and 55/60m around in SW Crest in terminal part PD-/PD/PD+.
VARIANT of opening and departure by of the route signals HIGH ROUTE 2 and 8A in term. part from crossroads 2.540/5m around (From Champorcher Village Chateau: "Chemin du Roi", erect in the end of nineteenth century - Gontier/Byron/Arbussey/Collin/Petit and Grand Mont Blanc (1.683m)/La Cort Villages - two littles bridges up Peuson's and Raty's Torrents Brenvei Alp - Great Champlong's Tableland Pastures (many old old wooden/rocky "rascards" in the verdant plain, scattereds between and amongst Cyclopian rocks hasty from vertical South Wall of the Bec Raty 2.382m) Leytuerie Alp (2.066m) to Dondena Alps (of arrival possibility by motor vehicles along a dirt road) and from Dondena - little bridge upon Ayasse's Great Torrent - Dondena's " Albergo (near ruines old barrack-like building of the Austrian Army Corps in Napoleonics Wars) and Refuge (2.193m) - little bridge in crossroads 2.340/50m upon Ayasse's Torrent - East Pontonnet's Lake to Fénis's Pass and from - "High Comba" Tersiva - Grand Raye to quota 3.060/70 meters about at of the Great Raye Couloir base - Great Raye Pass 3.457m) and terminal part. S-SE Crest's: Abbot Don Noussan of Champorcher; ? th?, 1912: d. in lev. 2.950m/2.400m/1.400m/400m and 55/60m around in terminal crest. Great Raye's Couloir in snow, 35°/38°/42°; F+ or, snowy, PD/PD-.(See route 03).
Priv. inf., remarks, reports and connections by Battista Pieiller 2009/2010. (Besides see routes 01 and 03).
07) – S-SE Arête,"Pontonnet's Crest": (from Champorcher Village also called from Dondena Alps by "Chemin du Roi" (=King's Route). From Champorcher/Chateau: Byron/Arbussey/Petit-Grand Mont Blanc/La Cort Villages - Champlong Alps to Dondena Alps. From Dondena - Dondena's Refuge - crossroads 2.345m and little bridge up Ayasse's Torrent - crossroads 2.545m between to Moutsaillon and Fénis Pass - East Pontonnet's Lake to Pontonnet's Pass (2.992m). From Pass - Tour Pontonnet (South, 3.174m, and North, 3.185m, Summits) to 3.145m Pass (little saddle) and S-SE Crest): Don Noussan, Parish Priest of Champorcher; diff. in lev. 2.300/50m from Champorcher/"Castello"; 1.550/600m from Dondena's Alps (2.097m); 880/920m from Pontonnet's Pass; 370/80m in t. part from little saddle 3.150m); (II°+/III°/II°-) PD+/AD+/PD-.
"Statistica delle prime ascensioni nel Gruppo del Gran Paradiso", in Bollettino 1908 Vol. XXXIX°, n. 72 -Bulletin C.A.I. 1908, by Agostino Ferrari, pages 101/55. Edit. C.A.I. in Turin 1908. "La Valle di Champorcher", by Mario Aldrovandi. Edit. Lattes in Turin, 1930/32. "GUIDA della REGIONE AUTONOMA della VALLE D'AOSTA", by Mario Aldrovandi, page 195. Edit. S.P.E. of Carlo Fanton in Turin, Dec 31th, 1964. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 159. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar, 2005.
08) – S-SE Arête,"Pontonnet Crest": (from Lillaz (Cogne's Village) - Urtier Valley: Goilles Dessus Little Village - "Crest's Chapel" (fountain) and Old Alp (ruins) - Tsavanis' Waterfall and Alp - little bridge 2.360m in Urtier's Torrent - Pianas's/Invergneux's Alps - "Of Hunters Baita (= priv. Alpine Refuge hunters's) Orlando" 2.641m (near Ponton Alp) - West Pontonnet's three littles Lakes to Pontonnet's Pass. From Pass (2.992m) - Tour Pontonnet South and North Summits to 3.150m Pass and S-SE Ridge): unknown; d. in lev. 2.000m from Lillaz Village (1.612m; Parking); 1.580/600m from Crest Alp and Chapel; 960/70m from Hunters "Baita" Orlando; 880/920m from Pontonnet's Pass; 370/80m in t. part from little saddle 3.145m); (II°+/III°/I°-) PD+/AD+/PD-.
(See above 1908, 1930/2, 1964 and 2005).
09) – S-SE Arête "Pontonnet's Lakes's": (from Lillaz (Cogne's Village) - Urtier Valley - Crest Alp (ruins) and "Alpino's Chapel" (fountain) - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little bridge 2.360m Pianas's/Invergneux's Alps - "Hunters's Baita Orlando" (crossroads 2.641m near Ponton Alp and Lake) - Pontonnet's Valley - Pontonnet's West Lakes (three) - little Comba Pontonnet's to 3.145m Unominated Pass (little saddle) (Pontonnet's Towers Pass? New toponym possible) and to S-SE Crest.): J. A. Garth-Marshall, P. Giacosa and Eliseo Jeantet, mountain's guide of Cogne; Jul, 1872; diff. in lev. 1.850m from Lillaz; 370m in t. part from little saddle 3.150m); (II°/III°) PD+/AD-/PD-.
(See above routes 07 and 08),
10) – S Wall "Pontonnet's West three littles Lakes's Face": (from Lillaz (Cogne Village) - Urtier Valley: Crest "Alpino's Chapel" (fountain) - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little bridge 2.360m Pianas's/Invergneux's Alps - "Hunters's Baita Orlando" near Ponton Alp and Lake - Pontonnet's Valley and little comba to wall's base quota 2.980 meters): Domenico Glarey, Eligio Gontier, Nestore Gontier and Ilario Jeantet mountaineers of Cogne or Champorcher?; Jul 25th, 1952; d. in lev. 1.850m from Lillaz; 530m in t. part; (II°+/III°?) PD+/AD-/PD-?.
"Tersiva's Summit Book 1921/74", property of Osvaldo Cardellina (See Books). 1921/1974. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 159. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005,
11) – S-SW Arête "Plan Cerise's Crest": (from Lillaz Cogne's Village) - Urtier Valley: Crest Alp (ruins) and "Alpino's Chapel" (fountain) - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little bridge Pianas's/Invergneux's Alps - Plan Cerise to ridge's base quota 2.800/900 meters): I°? G. Cavagnet and F. Santi; Aug th?, 1895; d. in lev. 1.850m; 800m in t. part); (II°/V°?) AD-/D+.
"RM C.A.I. 1901, page 400. Edit. C.A.I. in Turin, 1901. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 160. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar, 2005.
12) – S-SW Arête,"Western VARIANT of Opening": from Lillaz (Cogne's Village) - Urtier Valley: Crest Old Alp (ruins) and "Alpine Troups's Chapel" (fountain) - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little bridge 2.360m Pianas's and Invergneux's or Hevergnes's also Invergnaou's Alps - little Comba Invergneux's) to ridge's base quota 3.050/80 meters): Don Noussan, Champorcher's Reverend; ? th?, 1912; d. in lev. 1.850m from Lillaz; 400m in t. part); (II°/II+/III°?) AD-?.
"GUIDA della REGIONE AUTONOMA della VALLE D'AOSTA", by Mario Aldrovandi, pages 150, 195. Edit. S.P.E. of Carlo Fanton in Turin Dec 31th, 1964.
13) – SW Wall: from Lillaz (Cogne's Village) - Urtier Valley: Crest Ancient Alp (ruins) and "Alpino's Chapel" (fountain) - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little bridge Pianas's /Invergneux's Alp - "little Comba" Invergneux's to face's base quota 3.050/70 meters): L. Marchelli, R. Marchelli and L. Jeantet; Sep 01th, 1898; d. in lev. 1.850m; 450m in t. part; (II°+/III°) AD.
"RM C.A.I. 1899, page 461. Edit. C.A.I. in Turin 1899. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic" by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 160. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar, 2005.
14) – W-SW Arête "Invergneux Crest": (from Lillaz - Urtier Valley: "Crest's Chapel" and fountain - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little bridge 2.360m in of the Urtier Torrent Pianas's/Invergneux's Alps and Invergneux's Pass - Serra Madù or Madou 3.220m to little saddle 3.198m, of the ridge base quota 3.240/5 meters): Abbé Pietro Baldassare Chamonin and one unknown student; Aug 23th, 1842; d. in lev. 1.950m from Lillaz; 300m in t. part); (I°/II°+/III°-) PD-/PD+/PD-.
(See above routes 01, 01bis and 02).
14)bis - W-SW Crest VARIANT of Opening Plan Cerise's: (from Lillaz (Cogne's Village) - Urtier Valley: "Crest's Chapel" fountain - Tsavanis's Waterfall and Alp - little bridge in Urtier's Torrent Pianas's/Invergneux's Alps - Plan Cerise - S-SE Slope Madù or Madou Serra's to little saddle 3.198m and crest's base quota 3.240/5 meters): Surveyor Ercole Piana; ? th?, ?; d. in level 1.950m from Lillaz; 450m in t. part); (I°/II°/II°+?) PD/PD+?.
"GUIDA della REGIONE AUTONOMA della VALLE D'AOSTA", by Mario Aldrovandi, pages 150 and 195. Edit. S.P.E. of Carlo Fanton in Turin Dec 31th, 1964.
15) – W Arête "Grauson's/Doreire's Crest": (from Gimillan Village (little bridge 1.840m in NE of the village) - Tzecheu Lower Alp - Ecloseur Bridge upon Lussert'/Doreire's Torrents and twelte Alps (source between little wood and near Lussert'/Doreire's Torrents) - Pila Alp and Waterfall - Grauson Vieux Alp (Pré Vau-dan's Source near little bridge on Ervilliéres "Ru" (=little torrent) to Pastures and privates refuges) - Grauson/Doreire Valley: Pralognan Alp - Ervillères Alp - sections of left (North) and high central (East) Tessonet/Doreire Glacier's) - "Colletto" (=little pass) 3.198m between Serra Madou and Tersiva Point, to ridge's base quota 3.240/5 meters): Unknown; d. in lev. 1.900m from Gimillan Village; 270m in t. part); (I°/II°+/III°-) PD-/PD+/PD-.
(See route 01, 01bis and 02).
16) – NW Wall: (from little bridge 1840m c. in NE Gimillan Village's - Reventis Alp (ruins) - Ecloseur little Chapel - Tzecheu Lower Alp - Ecloseur's Bridge (source in little wood near Lussert Stream) - Ecloseur Alps - Pila Alp and Waterfallss - Créuzet Alp ("Bergamaschi's" privates Hut) - Grauson Vieux Alp (=Old Great Valley) - Grauson/Doreire Valley: Bridge 2.298m on Money's and various torrents - Pralognan Alp - Ervillerès Alp - sections North (left) and East (high central) in the middle area of the Tessonet/Doreire Glacier's to face's base quota 3.170/80 meters): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Sep 10th, 1988; d. in lev. 1.950m from Gimillan; 330/40m in t. part); (35°/40°/45°); AD-/AD+/PD+.
"Diari Alpinistici di Osvaldo Cardellina Ascensioni 1964/2013" - "Mountain's Diarys by Osvaldo Cardellina Ascents 1964/2013" with General Index 1964/2010 and Report's File since Sep 03th, 1964 until Mar, 2010. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 160. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar, 2005. Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva), by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina. Studys's University of Turin, Naturals Sciences Faculty, Course/Degree. Apr 24th, 2009.(Besides see routes 01 and 02).
1875: first in winter ( from Grauson/Doreire Valley and N-NW Arête): Giuseppe Corona & company; 17.02.1875.
("l'Alpinista" 1875/7, page 106. "Bollettino" of C.A.I. 1903/69, page 15. Guida dei Monti d'Italia C.A.I./T.C.I. "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 156. Edit. Mar 2005).
1921: ? Arête (from?): Aldo Bonacossa & company; ? th ? 1921; skiing.
( "Bonacossa Book"; Guida dei Monti d'Italia C.A.I./T.C.I. "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic",by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 156. Edit. Mar 2005).
1930: W Arête ( from Urtier Valley - Invergneux Pass and Serra Madù or Madou 3.220m): Mario Aldrovandi and wife and Giuseppe Vassoney, mountain guide of Champorcher; ? 01.1930; skiing.
("Guida della Valle di Champorcher" by Mario Aldrovandi. Edit. Lattes Turin's, 1930/32. "Guida della Valle di Cogne" by Mario Adrovandi. Edit. Lattes Turin's, 1930/32.
"Guida della Regione Autonoma della Valle d'Aosta" by Mario Aldrovandi, pages 150, 195 and 289. Edit. S.P.E. Carlo Fanton's of Turin, Dec 31th, 1964).
1980: N Wall and NE Arête ( from Barche - Clavalité - Fénis Valley - Private Refuge Turati - "High Little Comba" Tersiva's): Maurizio Gaillard, mountain's guide of Valpelline, and Sergio Pession; Dec 26/27 th, 1980.
("Montagnes Valdôtaines" - Magazine Section's C.A.I. of Aosta, Year VII n° 1 (17) May 1981, page 7) (or 27/28 th, 1980, by priv. inform., remarks and reports 2009, by Maurice Gaillard of Fénis and Sergio Pession of Quart).
1984: N Wall Right Route ( from Barche - Clavalité - Fénis Valley - Tersiva's "High Little "Comba"): Maurizio Gaillard, mountain's guide Valpelline's, and Sergio Pession; 04.01.1984.
(priv. inform., remarks and reports 2009, by Maurice Gaillard, of Fénis and Sergio Pession of Quart).
Noteworthy ascents at the beginning sprigtime(*):or in late Fall (**).
1921: Ascension of Bonacossa & company; from? skiing.
(Bonacossa Book).
1942: N-NW Arête and E Slope Tersiva Pass's; in ascent from? in descent from Tersiva's Pass: Toni Ortelli, Venturello, Zangelmi & company; 25.04.1942; skiing.
( "Storia dello Ski Club Torino e le origini dello sci in Italia": Edit. Ski Club Torino, 1971).
1979: N-NW Arête (from Saint Marcel Valley - High Les Druges - Mulac Hunting House - Plan Rué Alp - Grande Chaux Turati's Hunting House - "Colletto" (Little Pass) Tessonet - Grauson/Doreire Valley - Tessonet Glacier to Tersiva Pass): Maurice Gaillard, Valpelline's mountain'guide, Sergio Pession, of Quart, and Nilo Pieiller), of Fénis; May 27th, 1979; skiing.
("a piedi in VALLE D'AOSTA VOL. II 116 passeggiate, escursioni e trekking alla scoperta della natura" , by Stefano Ardito, page 182 (route 610 "Da Les Druges al Vallone di Saint Marcel"). B&W Map 1 Km:1 cm vith tracks of routes in page 184 extant. Edit. GUIDE ITER in Subiaco (Rome) Jun 2004. Priv. inform., remarks and reports 2009 by Maurice Gaillard and Sergio Pession).
(Twentysix Books, five Documents and one Graduation Thesis)
PRIVATES INFORMATIONS, REPORTS, REMARKS and CONNECTIONS by:
Emilio BERTONA, mountaineer and alpine photographer of Aosta;
Alessandro Giusto CARDELLINA, research worker naturalist, phisiotherapist and Author-Writer of Graduation Thesis "Variazioni Glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" (e della Tersiva) of Pian Felina (Charvensod)/Coutateppaz (Saint Christophe);
Anselme FALCOZ, mountaineer and ski-mountaineer of Aosta;
Camillo Roberto FERRONATO, mountaineer and "christallier" or mineralogist (minerals digger) of Pian Felina (Charvensod);
Maurice GAILLARD, Valpelline's mountain's guide of Fénis;
Danilo GARZOTTO, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Pian Felina (Charvensod);
Antonio GIANI, mountaineer and alpine photographer of Saint Christophe;
Renzo JEANTET, mountain's guide of Cogne and ski-mountaineer;
Vincenzo PERRUCHON, mountain's guide of Cogne, ski mountaineer, log-distance runner and hunter;
Sergio PESSION, mountaineer, ski-mountaineer and hunter of Quart;
Battista PIEILLER, mountaineer and ski-mountaineer of Fénis;
Ezio SAVIN, mountaineer and ski-mountaineer of Cogne;
Gianfranco VICENTINI, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta.
PHOTOGRAPHICS CONTRIBUTIONS by:
Emilio BERTONA : action's photos of the Aug 05th, 1998;
Alessandro Giusto CARDELLINA: action' photos 1983/2010;
Camillo Roberto FERRONATO: action's photos of the Sep 08th, 1974;
Danilo GARZOTTO : action's photos of the Aug, 18th, 1993;
Antonio GIANI; of the ridges and faces basic's Colorpictures of the variaous years;
Natalino MASSONI: action's photos of the Aug, 18th, 1993;
Battista PIEILLER : action's photos of the Aug, 2009;
Gianfranco VICENTINI : action's photos of the Aug, 05th, 1998.
MAPS:
The fundamental support given by my friend Antonio Giani.
In addition I want to thank Prof. Ferrari Liana for the translation of the text (Overview) from italian.