Getting There
BY CAR:
- From TORINO, MILANO, etc: Motorway A5. Exit at IVREA or Quincinetto (PIEDMONT) From IVREA Town: in West (Southern side) to Pont Saint Martin, Verrès Municipalities in East from Aosta Town. From Courmayeur Resort: in East-southeast to Aosta, Nus, Chatillon, Saint Vincent, Verrès Municipalities. From Verrès to Val d'Ayas Valley From Verrès (549m), with Regional Road, to Challant Saint Victor (765m), Challant Saint Anselme-Quincod (1.030m), Tollegnaz Village (1.041m), Archésaz Hamlet (1.146m), Brusson (1.332m) Municipalities; wanting, continuing to Northwest to Antagnod-Ayas (1.709m) Commune, below Mounts Tantané and Zerbion also in North towards Champoluc (1.570m) and Saint Jacques (1.670m) Communes at the end of Evançon or Ayas Valley and under the Western side of Monte Rosa (Rollin Hump, Breithorns, Pollux and Castor).
- From FRANCE: through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Entrèves/Courmayeur. By Little Saint Bernard Pass, closed since November until half May to La Thuile Valley - Pré Saint Didier - Aosta - Verrès Municipalities. It is not necessary to take Motorway A5: you can drive on SS.26, in the direction of AOSTA - IVREA - TURIN.
BY PLANE:
- Aeroporto "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).
Summits & Passes
- Description clockwise starting from the West above Estoul/Graines to Hills, Passes & Summits to get to the West-northwest over Challand St. Anselme-Quinçod/Tilly. (For the approaches see above Overview)
1) - Becca di Meriau or Bec de Merian (2.197m). From Allesaz
(1.120m) or Tollegnaz
1.041m) through the two paths
n° 5 or
n° 2B to Raala Pasture
(1.653m); from this point with path
n° 5 towards Cleve de Moula Alp
(1.885m) and through the same and traces in terminal part to Cleve de Moula
(2.241m). With short descent on Northwest Crest to a small carving and by Southeast brief Crest in final part (
EE/F; 3h'15/3h'30).
2) - Cleve de Moula (2.241m). With same preceding route through Southwestern slopes (EE/F; 2h'45/3h'00).
3) - Fourchette or La Forchetta also Nanta Pass (2.202m). From Moula Alp through previous routes to Cleve de Moula; from the path to the same with short deviation North on Southern slopes also through traverse on watershed (EE/F; 2h'00/2h'10).
4) - Pointe Champ-Long or Champlon (2.671m). From Mont Solaron through crossing and East-southeast Ridge also from Cleve de Moula Alp through a small and traces on South Slope and Southwest Crest in terminal part (EE/F+; 2h'15/2h'30 from Moula; 4h'00/4h'30 Allesaz).
5) - Mont Solaron or Punta di Soleron (2.888m). From Alp Pera Picolla (2.242m; see the Approach above in Overview) through steep Southern Slope, pathless, of large Saddle about 2.895 meters and Southeast Crest.
6) - Mont Néry also Becca di Frudiera (+ 3.075m). We list all the routes starting from the East, North and West into the Basin of Frudière:
a) - From Tollegnaz to Chasten Pass (see above Overview with short crossing in descent at the base of Southern Spur; climbing of 650 meters, by Ezio Capello, lone in July 10th, 1955. Safe and amusing climbing on good rock with passages of II°/III° (A/PD+; 2h'30/3h'00 from base).
b) - Always from Chasten Pass with same traverse to base of South Wall; climbing of 550 meters, by Dino Boiardi and Ezio Capello in July 24th, 1954. Less safe and less amusing climbing on rotten and dangerous rock; passages of II° and III° on first part with exit out by a gully on East Crest (A/PD+; 3h'00/3h'30 from the base).
c) - From Chasten Pass, neighbor the Eastern border; from pass before through a small track of 800 meters to the North and after, climbing on rocky slabs, tosmall saddle around 2640/50 meters. Continue through the South-southwestern Slope of large Saddle about 2.890/5 meters and West Ridge to the Western Ante Top (3.027m) and Top (EE/F+; from F+ to PD-; 2h'00/2h'15 from pass; 6h'00/6h'15 from Tollegnaz Village, same time from Issime-Champriond Commune (953m, 967m), through the path n° 2, in Gressoney Valley).
7) - Chasten Pass (2.549m). See the route in Overview (E/F; 4h'00/4h30 from Tollegnaz also Allesaz Vilolages).
8) - Monte Voghel (2.767m). This mountain is located on the end of the Ridge Northeastern of Mont Nery, where precipitates with a large rock face above the Forca Walloon and the Alp Henniciuken (2.000m), in the Gressoney Valley. The constant fall of stones from the same, despite the compact appearance of its plates, to prohibit forced by the beginning of 2000 the path (barrier with sign) downhill to the Village of Trenta (1.158m) at the Lys Torrent; here you have to use to get off the trail n° 1A, after a short climb to Mount Taf, shall be directed towards the Northeast, reaching the Weissmatten Cable Car (2.043m), whence the Camping Gressoney. You can climb from the Pass of Frudiera reaching the collar of about 2.680 meters on the the Northeast Crest of Nery and through the easy and short, but exposed to the Southeast, Southwest Ridge (EE/A; 1h'15/1h'30 from pass); or going directly scree followed by large blocks on the West Slope. So June 25th, 1995 by Osvaldo and Marco Cardellina Cossard starting Estoul Village at the Ranzola Hill and subsequent crossing on Mont Rena, Mont Taille and Mont Taf to the Hill of Frudiera; from this through upper moraine with the final climb through the West Wall and descent to the collar 2.680m, via the Southeast Ridge.
^^^^^^9) - Becca di Vlou (+ 3.032m). Surely it is the highest mountain "flashy", which, although slightly lower than the Mont Nery, features along with Becca Torché this walloon. Together they are known as "Les Dames de Challand" and are already in plain view from the Town of Aosta, in addition to going the Valley of Evançon. From this side has no easy routes and its ascent is made from the walloon following or of the Dondeuil or, rather, the Walloon Valbona over Issime Commune, in the adjacent Valley of Gressoney.
a) - Through North Edge of 400 meters with exit out up to the West Crest (Normal)in terminal part, by Franco Gatta and Gian Luca Peyretti August 30th, 1925 (A/AD+; 3h'00 from base; 7h'00/7h'30 Tollegnaz).
b) - Through the "hollow" North Face of 450 meters with direct exit out to Summit, by Alessandro "Dino" and Jean Charrey August 19th, 1928 (A/AD+/D-; 03h'00 from base; 07h'00/07h'30 Tollegnaz).
c) - Through Northern Spur of 530 meters, passages of II°/III°/IV°/III°+ and one of V° (avoidable) in terminal part with exit out on East Crest near the Top, by Ottavio Bastrenta, lone August 06th, 1955 (A/AD+; 4h'00 from base; 7h'30/8h'00 Tollegnaz).
d) - Through Northeastern Spur of around 270 meters, in total 400 (Variant of left), passages of II°/III° and connection with North Spur, by Ezio Capello, F. Demaestri, F. Ribetti and G. Ribetti July 14th, 1957 (A/AD-; 03h'00 from base; 6h'30/7h'00 Tollegnaz).
e) - Directly through Northeast Face of 350 meters, passages of III°-/III°/IV°, by Ottavio Bastrenta and Ezio Capello August 10th, 1956 (A/AD+; 3h'00 from base; 6h'30/7h'00 Tollegnaz).
f) - Direct Variant in left of 290 meters, in total 350, passages of III°-/III°/III°+, by Edoardo Ferrero solo August 05th, 1979 (A/AD+; 03h'15 from base; 6h'45/7h'15 Tollegnaz).
10) - : Becca Torché (+ 3.016m). The same goes for the nearby Becca Torché, related to the first two ridges "sharp", generally uphill from the Walloon of the Dondeuil by the eponymous Hill and easy South Crest. From this side, or Northern, offering repulsive walls as high as 350 meters (Torché) to 530 meters (Vlou) and also the two opposite ridges are not easy to climb. Even on this side of the mountain but offers an easy route to climb, also through Northwest Ridge; the same, however, is quite long and, starting from the Village of Tollegnaz, first reach the two Alps of Upper and Lower Merendiù (1.915m, 2.184m; 4h'00/4h'30); then, bending arbor South, reaches the wide seat approximately 2.700 meters in altitude between the Torché and Becca Mortens to frinally turn Southeast and go up the easy Northwest ridge formed by debris and easy rock (2h'30/3h'00, in total 7h'00/8h'00). Precisely for this reason it is scarcely frequented, although lends itself well as a way of descent. All other ways, namely via the North Face (from 350 to almost 400 meters) are very challenging from the beginning before Amilcare Crétier with "Dino" Charrey in August 1925, until the last made by Pier Luigi and Edoardo Ferrero with Renato Gasparetto ("Via Malchiavello") August 1982.
a) - Through Northern Slope and Northwest Ridge from Merendiù Upper Alp to carving around 2.700 meters with stony ground, debris and easy rocks in terminal part (EE/F; 1h'00 from carving; 3h'00/3h'15 from Merendiù Alpage; 6h'00/6h'30 from Tollegnaz Village).
b) - Through Northern Wall up to the half face, exit out partially on Northwest Ridge with return to North Face in right sector through more easy rocks in final part, by Franco Gatta and Gino Levi in September 13th, 1925 (A/AD/PD+; about 4h'00 from base; 7h'00/7h'30 Tollegnaz).
c) - Through North Wall with parallel Variant in right of about 390 meters, passages of V°-/V°/IV°/IV°+/II°/III° with very exposed climbing, by Battista China and Giuseppe Solvay September 22th, 1935. First repetition by Ottavio Bastrenta and Ezio Capello August 16th, 1956 (A/TD-; 4h'00 from base; 3h'30/3h'45 from Merendiù Alpage; 6h'45/7h'00 from Tollegnaz Village).
d) - Directly through North Wall of 350 meters, passages of III°/IV°/IV°+/V°-/V° and one of V°+ with more exposed climbing, by Dino Charrey and Amilcare Crétier August 26th, 1928. First Winter by Arturo and Oreste Squinobal March 8/9th, 1977 (A/TD; 3h'30 from base; 4h'45/5h'00 from Merendiù Alpage; 8h'00/8h'30 from Tollegnaz Village; 10h'00 from Issime with the route by the first climbers).
e) - Northern Wall through small spur in left of Crétier-Charrey Via of 350 meters, passages of III°/IV°/IV°+ with exposed ascent, by Edoardo and Pier Luigi Ferrero with Renato Gasparetto July 16th, 1978 (A/D+; 3h'00 from base; 4h'00/4h'15 Merendiù Alps; 5h'45/6h'00 Tollegnaz).
f) - Left Sector of North Wall ("Malchiavello Via") of 330 meters, passages of IV°/IV°+/V°/V°+ and one of VI°- with very exposed climbing, by Edoardo and Pier Luigi Ferrero with Renato Gasparetto August 18th, 1982 (A/TD-; 05h'00 from base; 6h'00/6h'30 from Merendiù Alpage; 7h'00/8h'00 from Tollegnaz Village).
11) - Becca Mortens (+ 2.736m). This pyramid is the Torché as the Mont Solaron is at Nery. In fact, either or both of the big shoulders are positioned to base of Western Ridges though good-looking, rarely rose for both the length and the difficulty of the approach, and because "obscured" by a greater fame than the other two highest pyramid. It reaches from Valfrecha (1.053m) above the Village of Tilly and upper Alps of Renou (1.844m) and Le Tron (1.920m) into a small walloon with the same name , but now already at the interior of the vallon of the next Dondeuil, or depression 2.700 meters (see above) for the short Crest East-southeast (2h'00/2h'20 from Le Tron Alp; 4h'45/5h'15 from Valfrecha Pasture). All other routes are not recommended, as it takes place on steep slopes and dangerous most suited for Hunters who do not for Hikers.
12) - Becca di Chavernie (+ 2.100m). This small mountain, above Challand Saint Anselme and Tollegnaz, "grants" instead of the ascent from the Chasten Vallon through the trail that goes up to Pont Chevalier (around 1.400 meters; old stone bridge); from this it is possible to climb along the wooded trails are not marked Slope Northwest, or, continuing to the Pastures of Grun (1.501m) and the next Seuc take a path to the South, before reaching that of Pra Baluard (1.709m). This achieves the Alps Suvveni (1.504m), Branga Solail (1.650m) and Molinet (1.839m), where, after a short time, ending at a small torrent; climbing through rubble move to the top of the collar and Becca Chavernie Mortens and conclude with the easy Crest East-southeast (3h'15/3h'45 from Tollegnaz).
Mont Nery, Chasten Hill, Monte Voghel & Dames de Challand into Chasten Vallon from distant (Punta Tersiva), by Antonio^^^^^^
Campings
Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2.500m, from darkness until dawn).
Mountain Conditions
- You can get meteo information at the official site of the Regione Valle d'Aosta:
- Valle d'Aosta Meteo
- Meteo: You can find more weather information on the website 3B Meteo:
- Meteo Brusson
Books and Maps
BOOKS:
- "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
- "Guida dei Monti d'Italia" Alpi Pennine (Vol. 2) di Gino Buscaini - Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, Luglio 1970 (In Italian).
- "Guida della Regione Autonoma Valle d'Aosta" di Mario Aldrovandi; Ed. S.P.E. di Carlo Fanton, Torino 1964.
- "Val d'Ayas itinerari escursionistici" di Piergiorgio Bosio Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1983.
- "A piedi in Valle d'Aosta" (Vol. 2), di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Giugno 2004.
- "Gressoney itinerari escursionistici" di Piergiorgio Bosio Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1984.
- "Alpinismo e Escursionismo in Val d'Ayas" di Giorgio Merlo, Ed. CDA Torino Maggio 1984.
MAPS:
- Meridiani Montagne "Monte Rosa" Carta 1.50.000 con carta di dettaglio 1.20.000.
- L'Escursionista "Val d'Ayas Val di Gressoney Monte Rosa" Carta dei sentieri (n° 8) 1:25.000.
- Comunità Montana Evançon "Carta dei sentieri" (n° 2), 1:30.000.
- Kompass "Breuil/Cervinia-Zermatt" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
- I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Cervino e Monte Rosa" 1:50.000.
Important Information
Useful numbers
- Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto n° 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
- Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
- Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.