JRaphaelson - Jul 2, 2022 11:01 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2022
Diagonal
Brutal but typical Adirondack approach for a few good pitches of rock. Really amazing experience, but probably wouldn’t do it again if only because of the approach from the Loj. I guess I could be convinced to come in from Upper Works :P
Oliv - Oct 5, 2010 9:56 am Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2010
Case Route (5.5)
Climbed the Case Route. The description in the book 'Adirondack Rocks' is right, except for the time taken to approach. Book says 2 hrs, it took us 4 (from adk loj)! Pretty tough trail! We camped near the boulder at the base of the route. It took us 9 hrs to climb and descend the route which we did in 7 lengths of ropes and with fixed belays. Climb was easy 4th class scramble except the crux which was an overhanging 5.5 crack. Well protected (BD camalot #2). Belays were really comfy. South face too so it was sunny! At the summit, we started to rappel 50 ft right of the end of the route on double rop rappels (60m). We equipped all trees on this line of descent and reached the ground after 5 rappels. This brought us right at the base fo the climb. It took us 2h15 to hike back to Adk loj while speed walking. The trail tends to be muddy. Enjoy!
Hangovers don't go over well on wallface, lol! Good times though!
Tom Fralich - Sep 22, 2008 12:55 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008
Diagonal (5.8)
Mary and I climbed this excellent route from a camp at the start of the Diagonal approach. We hiked in late on Friday night and bivied at the first lean-to, then to the campsite on Saturday morning. Made camp and headed for the route, started climbing at around 10:30. The first 2 pitches weren't great, but the rest of the route was fantastic. The last 2 pitches were super steep and fun. We rapped down in 4 double-rope rappels and were back in camp by 5:30. The next day was cloudy and damp, so we decided to hike over Indian Pass and then to Lake Colden to complete a round-trip loop from Upper Works. The hike was a lot more rugged than expected and we ended up back at the car pretty late. Definitely a great weekend, but we both could have done without the long hike on Sunday with heavy packs.
Went from the Ti mine N up the Indian Pass trail, to just N of the cliff, then cut SW up along the edge of the cliff. I was amazed how close the brush went to the very edge.
Got a little screwed up on the first two pitches and did some licheny pitches between Lewis Elijah and the correct diagnol start. The ramp pitches are good fun and the final pitch is in your face right to the rim. One of the Daks finest pitches in my opinion.
Route Climbed: Mental Blocks Date Climbed: summer '00
Phenominal route. 5.9 A2. Aid pitch was pretty fun. Stellar rock with a variety of climbing. Little bit easy of a bushwack then the stuff down by the Diagnal route. Classic adirondacks experience.
Great route. Fun 5.7 pitches up top. Hell of an approach hike from the hiking trail. One of the worst bushwackings i've ever done. Worth the effort though.
JRaphaelson - Jul 2, 2022 11:01 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2022
DiagonalBrutal but typical Adirondack approach for a few good pitches of rock. Really amazing experience, but probably wouldn’t do it again if only because of the approach from the Loj. I guess I could be convinced to come in from Upper Works :P
Oliv - Oct 5, 2010 9:56 am Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2010
Case Route (5.5)Climbed the Case Route. The description in the book 'Adirondack Rocks' is right, except for the time taken to approach. Book says 2 hrs, it took us 4 (from adk loj)! Pretty tough trail! We camped near the boulder at the base of the route. It took us 9 hrs to climb and descend the route which we did in 7 lengths of ropes and with fixed belays. Climb was easy 4th class scramble except the crux which was an overhanging 5.5 crack. Well protected (BD camalot #2). Belays were really comfy. South face too so it was sunny! At the summit, we started to rappel 50 ft right of the end of the route on double rop rappels (60m). We equipped all trees on this line of descent and reached the ground after 5 rappels. This brought us right at the base fo the climb. It took us 2h15 to hike back to Adk loj while speed walking. The trail tends to be muddy. Enjoy!
Rockscaler - Feb 3, 2009 6:10 pm
Leave the beer at homeHangovers don't go over well on wallface, lol! Good times though!
Tom Fralich - Sep 22, 2008 12:55 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008
Diagonal (5.8)Mary and I climbed this excellent route from a camp at the start of the Diagonal approach. We hiked in late on Friday night and bivied at the first lean-to, then to the campsite on Saturday morning. Made camp and headed for the route, started climbing at around 10:30. The first 2 pitches weren't great, but the rest of the route was fantastic. The last 2 pitches were super steep and fun. We rapped down in 4 double-rope rappels and were back in camp by 5:30. The next day was cloudy and damp, so we decided to hike over Indian Pass and then to Lake Colden to complete a round-trip loop from Upper Works. The hike was a lot more rugged than expected and we ended up back at the car pretty late. Definitely a great weekend, but we both could have done without the long hike on Sunday with heavy packs.
MoapaPk - Apr 11, 2007 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 1973
a long time agoWent from the Ti mine N up the Indian Pass trail, to just N of the cliff, then cut SW up along the edge of the cliff. I was amazed how close the brush went to the very edge.
Seth Maciejowski - Oct 20, 2005 12:06 pm
Route Climbed: Diagnol Date Climbed: August 2005Got a little screwed up on the first two pitches and did some licheny pitches between Lewis Elijah and the correct diagnol start. The ramp pitches are good fun and the final pitch is in your face right to the rim. One of the Daks finest pitches in my opinion.
iceisnice - Oct 4, 2005 12:55 am
Route Climbed: Mental Blocks Date Climbed: summer '00Phenominal route. 5.9 A2. Aid pitch was pretty fun. Stellar rock with a variety of climbing. Little bit easy of a bushwack then the stuff down by the Diagnal route. Classic adirondacks experience.
iceisnice - Oct 4, 2005 12:53 am
Route Climbed: Diagnal Date Climbed: Summer '00Great route. Fun 5.7 pitches up top. Hell of an approach hike from the hiking trail. One of the worst bushwackings i've ever done. Worth the effort though.
mt10climber - Oct 17, 2003 8:15 pm
Route Climbed: Indian Pass to cliff then Case route to summit Date Climbed: 10/04/03Spectacular cliff. Lots of rotten rock, knocked a car size boulder down from near the top so beware everything is loose. 80 degrees,bright and clear.