The roof/bulge on the second pitch is definitely 5.8, and a pretty physical 5.8 at that. I've never seen that section listed as 5.7 in any guidebook, and I think most 5.7 leaders would have a hard time with it.
You could make an argument for the 2nd pitch possibly being as hard as 5.8, but by comparison, the 1st pitch is consensus 5.8 (except for the opening moves), and I found the 1st pitch to be more difficult than than the 2nd. While the pitch is steep, the holds are large, and the pro secure. I also found the 3rd pitch to be more difficult than the 2nd, but maybe just because I'm not much of a crack climber.
Edit: While conducting some additional online research, I see that you signed in on ST with similar comments. There are a number of other entries on that section, with one fellow estimating as low as 5.5, and a lot of comments for 5.8. So, it is somewhere in the vicinity of 5.5-5.8. It felt like 5.7 to me, and I am inordinately soft...
Wow, someone thought it was 5.5? Geez! I suppose I was basing my view on having led the first pitch without a problem (mysteriously), but really struggling to get through that first move on pitch two. Maybe it just didn't play to my strengths. I'd really like to go back and do it again, though, because it was 5 years ago that I first climbed it and it definitely pushed my limit at the time.
ASteele - Oct 11, 2006 11:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Ah, the bulgeThe roof/bulge on the second pitch is definitely 5.8, and a pretty physical 5.8 at that. I've never seen that section listed as 5.7 in any guidebook, and I think most 5.7 leaders would have a hard time with it.
bearbnz - Oct 12, 2006 1:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Ah, the bulgeYou could make an argument for the 2nd pitch possibly being as hard as 5.8, but by comparison, the 1st pitch is consensus 5.8 (except for the opening moves), and I found the 1st pitch to be more difficult than than the 2nd. While the pitch is steep, the holds are large, and the pro secure. I also found the 3rd pitch to be more difficult than the 2nd, but maybe just because I'm not much of a crack climber.
Edit: While conducting some additional online research, I see that you signed in on ST with similar comments. There are a number of other entries on that section, with one fellow estimating as low as 5.5, and a lot of comments for 5.8. So, it is somewhere in the vicinity of 5.5-5.8. It felt like 5.7 to me, and I am inordinately soft...
ASteele - Nov 7, 2006 7:36 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Ah, the bulgeWow, someone thought it was 5.5? Geez! I suppose I was basing my view on having led the first pitch without a problem (mysteriously), but really struggling to get through that first move on pitch two. Maybe it just didn't play to my strengths. I'd really like to go back and do it again, though, because it was 5 years ago that I first climbed it and it definitely pushed my limit at the time.