Climbed the west ridge on a calm day filled with haze from forest fires. I found the north face to be fairly thin with good footing. "Exposure" is a bit relative even from section to section; much of it is a pleasant footpath while parts are fairly thin where a slip would probably mean curtains. I found this route to be more tenuous than the Reynolds north face traverse, but my memory of that trail is now 19 years old. Downclimbing was scarier than going up; easing down a few sections with a full pack nudging you outward is pretty exhilarating. The route above the traverse is fun; the trail below the western summit cliffs is easy but the yawning exposure below makes it spectacular.
Great summit views even with the haze. Saw a few parties on top of Reynolds, but no other summit groups on any other nearby peaks while we were on top. Saw elk, a fox, bighorns, goats, and a grizzly bear on the drive to and from the park.
As always, a decent day in Glacier is better than a good day anywhere else.
distressbark - Aug 29, 2011 7:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2011
great route
Solo climb on a hot August day. I was swimming in Hidden Lake 1 hour and 17 minutes after leaving the summit. Loved everything about the route!
andymt - Jan 1, 2011 1:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2003
Clements
Lots of fun.
The Levitator - Aug 24, 2009 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2009
West Ridge
Climbed with Rebelgrizz. Very interesting and fun route to climb.
Bob Sihler - Sep 18, 2008 9:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2006
Descent route
Used this to head back down after climbing the complicated and often very exposed South Ridge Route, which goes at Class 3-4 in the guidebook but easily turns into Class 5.
In my opinion, Edwards overstates the exposure on the West Ridge, but maybe it was all relative after enduring the South Ridge. In any event, it was a scenic, easy descent, and not a route I'd prefer for ascending because of the loose scree encountered getting to the ridgeline.
But bottom line: anyone a little nervous about the goat trail after reading the Edwards guide should probably take a second look at this route; it is not as scary as it might sound.
JessDoesThings - Aug 14, 2023 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2023
ClementsFun mountain!
wiredroach - Sep 24, 2012 2:23 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2012
Fun RouteClimbed the west ridge on a calm day filled with haze from forest fires. I found the north face to be fairly thin with good footing. "Exposure" is a bit relative even from section to section; much of it is a pleasant footpath while parts are fairly thin where a slip would probably mean curtains. I found this route to be more tenuous than the Reynolds north face traverse, but my memory of that trail is now 19 years old. Downclimbing was scarier than going up; easing down a few sections with a full pack nudging you outward is pretty exhilarating. The route above the traverse is fun; the trail below the western summit cliffs is easy but the yawning exposure below makes it spectacular.
Great summit views even with the haze. Saw a few parties on top of Reynolds, but no other summit groups on any other nearby peaks while we were on top. Saw elk, a fox, bighorns, goats, and a grizzly bear on the drive to and from the park.
As always, a decent day in Glacier is better than a good day anywhere else.
distressbark - Aug 29, 2011 7:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2011
great routeSolo climb on a hot August day. I was swimming in Hidden Lake 1 hour and 17 minutes after leaving the summit. Loved everything about the route!
andymt - Jan 1, 2011 1:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2003
ClementsLots of fun.
The Levitator - Aug 24, 2009 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2009
West RidgeClimbed with Rebelgrizz. Very interesting and fun route to climb.
bfrench - Apr 28, 2009 12:08 am
West RidgeYep.
Bob Sihler - Sep 18, 2008 9:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2006
Descent routeUsed this to head back down after climbing the complicated and often very exposed South Ridge Route, which goes at Class 3-4 in the guidebook but easily turns into Class 5.
In my opinion, Edwards overstates the exposure on the West Ridge, but maybe it was all relative after enduring the South Ridge. In any event, it was a scenic, easy descent, and not a route I'd prefer for ascending because of the loose scree encountered getting to the ridgeline.
But bottom line: anyone a little nervous about the goat trail after reading the Edwards guide should probably take a second look at this route; it is not as scary as it might sound.