Mike McL - Aug 4, 2024 5:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2022
Whorl
Solo day hike/scramble up the standard SE Face route
Rockawilliam - Aug 4, 2023 9:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2023
SE Face
This has got to be one of my favorite scrambles of all time. Spiller Canyon is gorgeous, the bench walk relaxing, and the route between each of the chutes were obvious and enjoyable. Thankfully, the chockstone cave was melted out enough for easy passage and the class 1 ledge to the summit block was nothing short of spectacular. Plus, the summit has exceptional views and plenty of room to move around. As you can tell, this is well worth the effort for anyone who can get up here.
Deb - Aug 23, 2021 10:12 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2021
Soggy Solo Slog
With a 30% chance of rain and "lovely" smoke, I made the slog and scramble chute to chute to chockstone with no navigational issues. Pretty fun other than rain starting just as I entered the tunnel on ascent. Short stay on summit with lots of thunder as I downclimbed the tunnel; creepy! Slog and jog out for a decent day in the Sierra.
LincolnB - Oct 24, 2020 3:26 pm Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2020
Standard route
Chute 1 to 2 to 3 to chockstone to walkway. On the return, chute 3 all the way down. One of the more interesting SPS climbs -
BobD3 - Oct 4, 2016 8:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2016
From the tarn at Horse Creek Pass.
This is one of those peaks where researching the route really pays off. Everything went as planned. No surprises.
Going later in the season will most likely insure that the chockstone/tunnel isn't clogged with snow.
Fairweather - Oct 18, 2015 11:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2015
SE Face Day hike
From Twin Lakes with Todd, Jim, and Chris. Very fun climbing in a nice area. Fairly long day.
wmolland - Sep 22, 2015 10:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2015
SE face
Got a bit off route by going up a cute too far west. After reaching the crest we realized our error and descended before traversing into the correct chute and going up the standard route. The chockstone was fun to burrow through and the climb was not anything overly scary or difficult. Overall, a fine peak indeed!
CWessels - Jul 30, 2015 2:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2015
SE Face
Chockstone was passable, but I took the Chute #2 apex variation to ridge traverse on the way up. I know the route description says topping out on Chute #2 is class 3, but it seemed to me that the last move or two before the chute-top was class 4 (a narrow crack up an otherwise smooth slab, with one flake for a handhold).
I think Chute #2 in general is more interesting (but hardly more difficult) than #1, except near the top. There's an easy place to traverse from #1 to #2 about halfway up--which is a nice alternative, since the first chute is basically just class 2.
Romain - Jun 29, 2015 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2015
Southeast face to West face variation (cl. 4)
I set off to climb Whorl Mountain from Horse Creek Pass at 10:42 am, after having climbed Matterhorn. I had no trouble locating the correct chutes and passages across the various chutes, but after I located the chockstone chute I faced lots of route finding issues: the chockstone passage was clogged with snow, so I had to find an alternative. My alternative route was to go back to chute #2 and climb it to its apex (class 4). I then did a downward traverse of the West face of Whorl on some sandy ledges, ultimately finding a chute that led upwards to a snow-filled gap just North of the summit. From slightly below the gap, one can find exposed and insecure right-leaning class 3 ledges to the summit. I reached the summit at 13:55 pm. I found no summit register, only a Ziploc bag under a rock containing some papers and register entries. I left the summit around 14:10 pm and was back in camp at 16:16 pm (camp to summit, it was a 5:34 hour ascent).
Reading Secor's book it is apparent I did not gain the summit ridge immediately upon cresting chute #2, as would have been the case had I gone under the chockstone in chute #3. This caused me to have to traverse the West face, as described above. Overall this was a very interesting route that causes the mountaineer to work hard and do some creative problem solving. Trip report
mengbo - Aug 25, 2014 2:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014
SE face
Climbed with Jeff. No issues of chutes finding. It is a beautiful peak, but be cautious of loose rocks under chockstone.
cab - Aug 18, 2014 1:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014
SE Face
We didn't have too much trouble with the routefinding after reviewing the pictures on the SP page here. The chockstone was pretty cool with the all of the twisting and turning you have to do to make your way through the back of it. We also climbed Matterhorn afterwards which made for a long day.
WayneFry - Sep 10, 2013 12:15 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2013
SE Face
A good challenging route find. Attempted to climb this peak with a team of four but encountered rockfall while climbing behind the chockstone. One of our climbers was injured and we stopped the ascent at that point.
Sept. 18, 2017 From Twin Lakes climbed with Rick B. We setup an overnight bivy in Spiller Creek Canyon and climbed the next day. We climbed directly up the chockstone chute from the bench and avoided traversing across the other chutes. Fun scramble through the chockstone and up to the summit. Especially liked the sidewalk near the summit.
craig512 - Aug 2, 2013 12:27 am Date Climbed: Oct 21, 2012
Great climb
Barely made this one. Route finding was a little tricky, but the climb itself was fairly easy for a mountaineers peak. After summiting it started to snow, our hopes to bag Matterhorn were dashed and we headed back to base camp where it snowed about 1.5 feet overnight. Made the hike out interesting, but we had a blast!
seano - Aug 11, 2012 9:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012
Standard route
After Matterhorn, for day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Surprisingly fun, though I missed the chockstone tunnel. Trip report.
Fun climb with an interesting route. Left from Twin Lakes and camped overnight by a tarn at the base of the mountain.
mdougherty - Aug 27, 2010 3:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010
SE Face
Up from camp at Horse Creek Pass. Really fun climb and great views.
mrchad9 - Jun 13, 2010 8:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008
Spectacular Mountain
Really enjoyed the route finding and scenery on this one. Camped at the lake south of Horse Creek Pass and climbed this in the morning after visiting Matterhorn the day before.
Mike McL - Aug 4, 2024 5:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2022
WhorlSolo day hike/scramble up the standard SE Face route
Rockawilliam - Aug 4, 2023 9:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2023
SE FaceThis has got to be one of my favorite scrambles of all time. Spiller Canyon is gorgeous, the bench walk relaxing, and the route between each of the chutes were obvious and enjoyable. Thankfully, the chockstone cave was melted out enough for easy passage and the class 1 ledge to the summit block was nothing short of spectacular. Plus, the summit has exceptional views and plenty of room to move around. As you can tell, this is well worth the effort for anyone who can get up here.
Deb - Aug 23, 2021 10:12 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2021
Soggy Solo SlogWith a 30% chance of rain and "lovely" smoke, I made the slog and scramble chute to chute to chockstone with no navigational issues. Pretty fun other than rain starting just as I entered the tunnel on ascent. Short stay on summit with lots of thunder as I downclimbed the tunnel; creepy! Slog and jog out for a decent day in the Sierra.
LincolnB - Oct 24, 2020 3:26 pm Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2020
Standard routeChute 1 to 2 to 3 to chockstone to walkway. On the return, chute 3 all the way down. One of the more interesting SPS climbs -
Travissmith2251 - Aug 23, 2019 10:03 pm
SummitGreat route finding
BobD3 - Oct 4, 2016 8:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2016
From the tarn at Horse Creek Pass.This is one of those peaks where researching the route really pays off. Everything went as planned. No surprises.
Going later in the season will most likely insure that the chockstone/tunnel isn't clogged with snow.
Fairweather - Oct 18, 2015 11:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2015
SE Face Day hikeFrom Twin Lakes with Todd, Jim, and Chris. Very fun climbing in a nice area. Fairly long day.
wmolland - Sep 22, 2015 10:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2015
SE faceGot a bit off route by going up a cute too far west. After reaching the crest we realized our error and descended before traversing into the correct chute and going up the standard route. The chockstone was fun to burrow through and the climb was not anything overly scary or difficult. Overall, a fine peak indeed!
CWessels - Jul 30, 2015 2:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2015
SE FaceChockstone was passable, but I took the Chute #2 apex variation to ridge traverse on the way up. I know the route description says topping out on Chute #2 is class 3, but it seemed to me that the last move or two before the chute-top was class 4 (a narrow crack up an otherwise smooth slab, with one flake for a handhold).
I think Chute #2 in general is more interesting (but hardly more difficult) than #1, except near the top. There's an easy place to traverse from #1 to #2 about halfway up--which is a nice alternative, since the first chute is basically just class 2.
Romain - Jun 29, 2015 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2015
Southeast face to West face variation (cl. 4)I set off to climb Whorl Mountain from Horse Creek Pass at 10:42 am, after having climbed Matterhorn. I had no trouble locating the correct chutes and passages across the various chutes, but after I located the chockstone chute I faced lots of route finding issues: the chockstone passage was clogged with snow, so I had to find an alternative. My alternative route was to go back to chute #2 and climb it to its apex (class 4). I then did a downward traverse of the West face of Whorl on some sandy ledges, ultimately finding a chute that led upwards to a snow-filled gap just North of the summit. From slightly below the gap, one can find exposed and insecure right-leaning class 3 ledges to the summit. I reached the summit at 13:55 pm. I found no summit register, only a Ziploc bag under a rock containing some papers and register entries. I left the summit around 14:10 pm and was back in camp at 16:16 pm (camp to summit, it was a 5:34 hour ascent).
Reading Secor's book it is apparent I did not gain the summit ridge immediately upon cresting chute #2, as would have been the case had I gone under the chockstone in chute #3. This caused me to have to traverse the West face, as described above. Overall this was a very interesting route that causes the mountaineer to work hard and do some creative problem solving.
Trip report
mengbo - Aug 25, 2014 2:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014
SE faceClimbed with Jeff. No issues of chutes finding. It is a beautiful peak, but be cautious of loose rocks under chockstone.
cab - Aug 18, 2014 1:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014
SE FaceWe didn't have too much trouble with the routefinding after reviewing the pictures on the SP page here. The chockstone was pretty cool with the all of the twisting and turning you have to do to make your way through the back of it. We also climbed Matterhorn afterwards which made for a long day.
WayneFry - Sep 10, 2013 12:15 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2013
SE FaceA good challenging route find. Attempted to climb this peak with a team of four but encountered rockfall while climbing behind the chockstone. One of our climbers was injured and we stopped the ascent at that point.
WayneFry - Oct 4, 2017 3:10 pm
Re: SE FaceSept. 18, 2017 From Twin Lakes climbed with Rick B. We setup an overnight bivy in Spiller Creek Canyon and climbed the next day. We climbed directly up the chockstone chute from the bench and avoided traversing across the other chutes. Fun scramble through the chockstone and up to the summit. Especially liked the sidewalk near the summit.
craig512 - Aug 2, 2013 12:27 am Date Climbed: Oct 21, 2012
Great climbBarely made this one. Route finding was a little tricky, but the climb itself was fairly easy for a mountaineers peak. After summiting it started to snow, our hopes to bag Matterhorn were dashed and we headed back to base camp where it snowed about 1.5 feet overnight. Made the hike out interesting, but we had a blast!
seano - Aug 11, 2012 9:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012
Standard routeAfter Matterhorn, for day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Surprisingly fun, though I missed the chockstone tunnel. Trip report.
dshoshone - Jul 31, 2012 5:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2012
SE FaceFun cl. 3 climb
ckerth - Sep 2, 2010 8:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2010
SE FaceFun climb with an interesting route. Left from Twin Lakes and camped overnight by a tarn at the base of the mountain.
mdougherty - Aug 27, 2010 3:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010
SE FaceUp from camp at Horse Creek Pass. Really fun climb and great views.
mrchad9 - Jun 13, 2010 8:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008
Spectacular MountainReally enjoyed the route finding and scenery on this one. Camped at the lake south of Horse Creek Pass and climbed this in the morning after visiting Matterhorn the day before.