There is so much to say about your report. Much more than there is space here. But in short, it is "wow" on so many levels. I hope that it will help you to find some sort of closure. Thanks for sharing that with all of us. Best, Guido
This is one of the most heartfelt, well-written, detailed trip reports I have ever read on SummitPost. Words cannot truly express how reading this impacted me, as I am certain words cannot really express all of your emotions. Thank you for sharing this story with everyone.
.... one of the most detailed, well written trip reports I've ever read. A story of great loss. Thank you for sharing this with the SP community. May you find peace!
Thank you for taking such care to record the details the wind maps are very valuable and reflect your awareness of the conditions and your evaluation of the situation.
Thank you for letting me know about the wind maps. Though it is all pretty clear in my mind what I saw and experienced, I thought presenting my best understanding/deductions in that way could make it easier for others to understand.
I've tried to find out if I had made any obvious mistakes that I could have avoided and as such avoid repeating in the future, but experts in the relevant areas had pretty much the same opinion. In a strange way, this finding (or lack thereof) leaves me angry at . . . well, nothing, I guess . . . or the fact that it was so unpredictable and senseless, but I guess that's life.
If I make the summit of Shasta this Monday I will say my prayers for Tom up there. He sounds like a very high quality person and an amazing climber. As sad is this story is at least Tom died doing something he loved so much and his spirit will live on forever on Shasta. I wish you the very best on Liberty Ridge. Thanks for taking the time to share this story Mark.
We made it to the summit yesterday via Avalanche Gulch and took the time to have a moment of silence for him. Your TR really touched me and I could tell his spirit is still alive and well on that mountain.
I can't remember if I told you, but Tom's father Tom Sr. read your trip report and wanted to thank you for the thoughtful gesture. Thanks again for keeping Tom in your thoughts when you were on the mountain.
I finally read this TR word for word and you definately put a lot of work into this one. Thanks for putting up this TR. When mountaineering accidents happen people who never share the story, never share the lessons and their experiences that could possibly save someones life one day. It amazes me that so many people climb Shasta and never give it a second thought about how killer that mountain can be on a bad day. All serious mountaineers have pondered about loosing a partner in the mountains but have never had to experience a loss. I took professional resque and the 1st rule is DO NOT BECOME A VICTUM......especailly if they are completely unresponsive. I have had to do CPR for 35 minutes before and it is quite an exausting ordeal. From a resquer and mountaineering point of view you did the right thing out there. I am truly sorry for your loss Mark, Tom will be missed by the people he got to climb with and all the mountains that he was able to climb. Happy Trails out there Mark.
-TyeDyeTwins-
I read this after a friend just forwarded the link to your posting. I have climbed almost every route on Mt Shasta, and have done the almost exact trip you described in the late fall. Your details and explanation are incredibly accurate and it brought back great memories of my time on that special mountain.
I have two small children now and do not climb much anymore. I plan on returning to the mountain late this year for a revisit of the North Side. Just you know a little about me, I spent several weeks climbing in Peru and have been on some very extreme trips.
I want you to know, I defended you vehemently in the blogs on a lot of media stories posted online. I know you have heard of the accusations and armchair quarterbacking by people that have no idea what this climbing life is about. I always stated to them, "No one other than Mark and Tom know what has happened, and no one in the world has the right to second guess their actions."
I am also a ski partol and work as an EMT. You did what any person would do in your situation. As a fellow climber, I would say that anyone would be honored to have you as a partner. I know none of this means anything after losing a partner that has such a bond, but I hope it helps in some way.
One final note, I had the rare opportunity to have a beer with Greg Child many years ago. I asked him, several years before the accident on Everest spawned "Into Thin Air", what he thought about people being guided on extreme mountaineering trips. He said to me, "After leaving friends on mountains such as K2, no guide or client should ever be put in that position, nor are the person to be making that sort of decision when things get so desperate."
I can only fathom the mental anguish you had leaving your friend there, but I do know you did the right thing.
My best wishes to you in your future endeavours and my condolences to you and Tom's family for the loss.
Mark,
Thank you so much for taking the time to share this. I regularly share stories like this with my Boy Scout troop to get them to understand the importance of planning, staying calm, and thinking your way out of a bad situation. I think you set a great example.
As an avid backcountry winter backpacker, I'm fully aware of how a forecast can be missing data or be completely wrong. My family called SAR for the first time in 30 years last year when a light rain forecast turned into 3ft. of snow and I ended up spending Thankgiving in Lone Pine, CA after walking out of the mountains. I did my walk in sunny weather and blue skies, but I used it the experience to teach my scouts that leaving a plan behind with someone can save your butt.
I'm sorry you and Tom had to pay such a dire price, but I gain solace in the fact that we love what we do and if are as careful as we can be and things go wrong, at least we end with our best effort and doing something we love.
I followed much of the media circus after this happened earlier this year, and before reading your trip report today I still knew how the media loves to simplify and mischaracterize mountaineering tradgedies, mainly in an attempt to satisfy their audience that consists mostly of people who do not understand the mountains. Thank you for your thoughtful account of everything that happened, I only wish it would get the same media attention as the original tradgedy. But, we all know that the American media is all about hype, controvery, and ratings, and an honest, thoughtful account of this story certainly wouldn't achieve that.
Thank you for writing this, for spending the time to put it together, for reliving what I can only imagine to be mental anguish. For those of us just who are new to climbing and learning the skills along the way, this piece serves as a amazing source of information: what to do, how to do it, resources to rely on, etc. I know that for you it is as personal as anything could be, but I'd imagine for many it will serve as a resource for a long time to come.
I'm sorry for the loss of your friend. I hope someday to make an attempt on Mt. Shasta, and as others have commented before me, I will have a moment of silence on the mountain in memory of your friend.
Thank you for sharing the details of your experience, and also I am very sorry for you and the family's loss. I appreciate that you took the time to tell us about it; both because I'm sure it was hard for you, and because there might be information that will save someone someday.
I can't imagine how hard it would be to be there with Tom but not be able to help him, and you are much stronger in will and character (and probably physically too, now that I think about it) than some people could ever hope to be. The fact that you were able to continue making decisions that saved your ass is also astonishing.
I'm glad your story has been set straight, and I think you made all the best decisions in the situation. No one else has the right to tell you otherwise; anyone who does is not worth your time, so don't let them get to you.
I think it is highly unfortunate that there still don't seem to be any lessons learned or takeaways that you can apply to the future to reduce the likelihood of similar event occurring in the future.
"There wasn’t much for me to learn here, as later research revealed that I did everything right"
I don't think that comment in your follow up analysis could be any further from the truth, and it's arrogant. There are always things you could have done differently, whether it be in your approach/methodology, itinerary planning, or execution. When putting yourself in a risky situation having contingencies is a critical component. But you say there was nothing to learn here... yet just a year later you nearly ended up in almost the exact same horrific situation again on Rainier.
Really? I wasn't going to post anything negative since he lost a friend, but if he was in another accident again, he is obviously making some bad decisions. Several that I could point out, but the most obvious being not to go to a high, exposed peak in the wintertime.
The main lesson that you SHOULD have learned is that mountains can change unpredictably and very very quickly, and that is my main take-away from reading this yesterday
edit: do you have a link to anything about the situation on rainier you speak of?
SoCalHiker - Jun 3, 2010 10:48 am - Voted 10/10
wowThere is so much to say about your report. Much more than there is space here. But in short, it is "wow" on so many levels. I hope that it will help you to find some sort of closure. Thanks for sharing that with all of us. Best, Guido
Redwic - Jun 3, 2010 12:11 pm - Voted 10/10
"Wow" is right!!!This is one of the most heartfelt, well-written, detailed trip reports I have ever read on SummitPost. Words cannot truly express how reading this impacted me, as I am certain words cannot really express all of your emotions. Thank you for sharing this story with everyone.
TJ311 - Jun 3, 2010 4:49 pm - Voted 10/10
I Agree........ one of the most detailed, well written trip reports I've ever read. A story of great loss. Thank you for sharing this with the SP community. May you find peace!
mauri pelto - Jun 3, 2010 5:25 pm - Voted 10/10
Thank youThank you for taking such care to record the details the wind maps are very valuable and reflect your awareness of the conditions and your evaluation of the situation.
PellucidWombat - Jun 7, 2010 3:52 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Thank youThank you for letting me know about the wind maps. Though it is all pretty clear in my mind what I saw and experienced, I thought presenting my best understanding/deductions in that way could make it easier for others to understand.
benjamin7 - Jun 3, 2010 9:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Crazy...I don't really know what you could have done differently, sounds like nothing really...
PellucidWombat - Jun 7, 2010 3:50 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Crazy...I've tried to find out if I had made any obvious mistakes that I could have avoided and as such avoid repeating in the future, but experts in the relevant areas had pretty much the same opinion. In a strange way, this finding (or lack thereof) leaves me angry at . . . well, nothing, I guess . . . or the fact that it was so unpredictable and senseless, but I guess that's life.
EastKing - Jun 4, 2010 6:01 am - Voted 10/10
Rest In Peace TomMark,
If I make the summit of Shasta this Monday I will say my prayers for Tom up there. He sounds like a very high quality person and an amazing climber. As sad is this story is at least Tom died doing something he loved so much and his spirit will live on forever on Shasta. I wish you the very best on Liberty Ridge. Thanks for taking the time to share this story Mark.
-EK
PellucidWombat - Jun 5, 2010 8:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Rest In Peace TomThanks EK,
Good luck on Shasta, be safe, and may Tom's spirit live on in all of us who climb in the mountains.
- Mark
EastKing - Jun 8, 2010 12:37 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Rest In Peace TomWe made it to the summit yesterday via Avalanche Gulch and took the time to have a moment of silence for him. Your TR really touched me and I could tell his spirit is still alive and well on that mountain.
PellucidWombat - Aug 27, 2010 1:48 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Rest In Peace TomI can't remember if I told you, but Tom's father Tom Sr. read your trip report and wanted to thank you for the thoughtful gesture. Thanks again for keeping Tom in your thoughts when you were on the mountain.
TyeDyeTwins - Jun 16, 2010 11:58 am - Voted 10/10
An Intresting Read......I finally read this TR word for word and you definately put a lot of work into this one. Thanks for putting up this TR. When mountaineering accidents happen people who never share the story, never share the lessons and their experiences that could possibly save someones life one day. It amazes me that so many people climb Shasta and never give it a second thought about how killer that mountain can be on a bad day. All serious mountaineers have pondered about loosing a partner in the mountains but have never had to experience a loss. I took professional resque and the 1st rule is DO NOT BECOME A VICTUM......especailly if they are completely unresponsive. I have had to do CPR for 35 minutes before and it is quite an exausting ordeal. From a resquer and mountaineering point of view you did the right thing out there. I am truly sorry for your loss Mark, Tom will be missed by the people he got to climb with and all the mountains that he was able to climb. Happy Trails out there Mark.
-TyeDyeTwins-
sthrone - Jun 30, 2010 7:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Thank youMark,
I read this after a friend just forwarded the link to your posting. I have climbed almost every route on Mt Shasta, and have done the almost exact trip you described in the late fall. Your details and explanation are incredibly accurate and it brought back great memories of my time on that special mountain.
I have two small children now and do not climb much anymore. I plan on returning to the mountain late this year for a revisit of the North Side. Just you know a little about me, I spent several weeks climbing in Peru and have been on some very extreme trips.
I want you to know, I defended you vehemently in the blogs on a lot of media stories posted online. I know you have heard of the accusations and armchair quarterbacking by people that have no idea what this climbing life is about. I always stated to them, "No one other than Mark and Tom know what has happened, and no one in the world has the right to second guess their actions."
I am also a ski partol and work as an EMT. You did what any person would do in your situation. As a fellow climber, I would say that anyone would be honored to have you as a partner. I know none of this means anything after losing a partner that has such a bond, but I hope it helps in some way.
One final note, I had the rare opportunity to have a beer with Greg Child many years ago. I asked him, several years before the accident on Everest spawned "Into Thin Air", what he thought about people being guided on extreme mountaineering trips. He said to me, "After leaving friends on mountains such as K2, no guide or client should ever be put in that position, nor are the person to be making that sort of decision when things get so desperate."
I can only fathom the mental anguish you had leaving your friend there, but I do know you did the right thing.
My best wishes to you in your future endeavours and my condolences to you and Tom's family for the loss.
-Steve
derekp62 - Jun 30, 2010 10:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Thanks for sharing.Mark,
Thank you so much for taking the time to share this. I regularly share stories like this with my Boy Scout troop to get them to understand the importance of planning, staying calm, and thinking your way out of a bad situation. I think you set a great example.
As an avid backcountry winter backpacker, I'm fully aware of how a forecast can be missing data or be completely wrong. My family called SAR for the first time in 30 years last year when a light rain forecast turned into 3ft. of snow and I ended up spending Thankgiving in Lone Pine, CA after walking out of the mountains. I did my walk in sunny weather and blue skies, but I used it the experience to teach my scouts that leaving a plan behind with someone can save your butt.
I'm sorry you and Tom had to pay such a dire price, but I gain solace in the fact that we love what we do and if are as careful as we can be and things go wrong, at least we end with our best effort and doing something we love.
All my best,
Derek
SFMountaineer - Jul 21, 2010 10:49 am - Voted 10/10
Thank youI followed much of the media circus after this happened earlier this year, and before reading your trip report today I still knew how the media loves to simplify and mischaracterize mountaineering tradgedies, mainly in an attempt to satisfy their audience that consists mostly of people who do not understand the mountains. Thank you for your thoughtful account of everything that happened, I only wish it would get the same media attention as the original tradgedy. But, we all know that the American media is all about hype, controvery, and ratings, and an honest, thoughtful account of this story certainly wouldn't achieve that.
Thanks again, and I'm sorry for your loss.
Jon
gabr1 - Jul 24, 2011 2:36 pm - Voted 10/10
i just stumbled upon......your report.
I am really, really sorry.
Tools_Incoming - May 12, 2013 2:53 pm - Voted 10/10
Thank youThank you for writing this, for spending the time to put it together, for reliving what I can only imagine to be mental anguish. For those of us just who are new to climbing and learning the skills along the way, this piece serves as a amazing source of information: what to do, how to do it, resources to rely on, etc. I know that for you it is as personal as anything could be, but I'd imagine for many it will serve as a resource for a long time to come.
I'm sorry for the loss of your friend. I hope someday to make an attempt on Mt. Shasta, and as others have commented before me, I will have a moment of silence on the mountain in memory of your friend.
Sincerest regards.
LuminousAphid - May 13, 2013 8:15 pm - Voted 10/10
ThanksThank you for sharing the details of your experience, and also I am very sorry for you and the family's loss. I appreciate that you took the time to tell us about it; both because I'm sure it was hard for you, and because there might be information that will save someone someday.
I can't imagine how hard it would be to be there with Tom but not be able to help him, and you are much stronger in will and character (and probably physically too, now that I think about it) than some people could ever hope to be. The fact that you were able to continue making decisions that saved your ass is also astonishing.
I'm glad your story has been set straight, and I think you made all the best decisions in the situation. No one else has the right to tell you otherwise; anyone who does is not worth your time, so don't let them get to you.
mrchad9 - May 13, 2013 9:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Sad...I think it is highly unfortunate that there still don't seem to be any lessons learned or takeaways that you can apply to the future to reduce the likelihood of similar event occurring in the future.
"There wasn’t much for me to learn here, as later research revealed that I did everything right"
I don't think that comment in your follow up analysis could be any further from the truth, and it's arrogant. There are always things you could have done differently, whether it be in your approach/methodology, itinerary planning, or execution. When putting yourself in a risky situation having contingencies is a critical component. But you say there was nothing to learn here... yet just a year later you nearly ended up in almost the exact same horrific situation again on Rainier.
LuminousAphid - May 14, 2013 11:30 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Sad...Really? I wasn't going to post anything negative since he lost a friend, but if he was in another accident again, he is obviously making some bad decisions. Several that I could point out, but the most obvious being not to go to a high, exposed peak in the wintertime.
The main lesson that you SHOULD have learned is that mountains can change unpredictably and very very quickly, and that is my main take-away from reading this yesterday
edit: do you have a link to anything about the situation on rainier you speak of?