Approach
From the main parking lot, take the Moro Rock stairs to the first view point (looking west) on the right hand side. Leave the stairs and scramble down a 3rd class slab. Be sure to follow along the base of a steep wall on the left side of the slab. As the slab steepens to 4th class, make a ticklish friction traverse around a subtle corner. There use to be an old sugar pine growing near this corner, affectionately called the 'Sherman Tree', but has long since met its demise over the seasons. Just around the corner, approximately 30 feet, is an anchor (one bolt and one pin with a rappel chain). Rappel here (100 feet) and down to a large vegitated ledge (Zocolo's Ledge). At the ledge, rappel one more time (two bolts with chains). The bolts are located at the northwest side of the ledge. Once down at the ledge (Condors Ledge, 110 feet below), the start of the route follows the obvious right facing corner.
Route Description
Start approximately 20 feet left of a narrow vegitated ledge and follow a right facing corner (5.6, pro to 1/2" and slings for chickenheads) back up to Zocolos Ledge. The second pitch (5.6) follows up a left facing corner/ramp. This pitch can either be climbed in the corner or out on the ramp (plenty of pro for either choice; gear to 1"). Once at the top of pitch #2, look for a large crack on the steep wall above (10 feet above the anchors). For pitch #3, make an awkward initial move into the large, left slanting crack and follow it up for 120 feet (5.7, pro to 2"). The top of the pitch ends at the railing for the stairs. Belay from the railing.
As a note of caution, 'tourons' have been known to toss trash and watch it tumble from the railing view points. Keep your head on a swivel and report any such activities to the rangers.
Essential Gear
Two 50 meter ropes suggested (for the rappels). Slings and gear to 2" are ideal.
Miscellaneous Info
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