South Ridge

Overview

This route is not listed in Secor's route descriptions for this peak, nor have I read any trip reports that mention it elsewhere.

This route has considerably less sand than the SW face route making it preferable for ascent. It was an enjoyable climb. I did not descend this route. I used the SW face to descend. There could be some difficulties relocating the access point to downclimb the cliffband from above, although there's numerous class 2-3 ways to do that. 

If you have anything further to add about this route, please do.

Getting There

From Mineral King, take the trail approx. 7 miles south to Farewell Gap. From Farewell Gap, either take the trail or travel xc to Upper Bullfrog Lake. (the trail is probably easier)

Route Description

From Upper Bullfrog Lake head east to the low point (saddle) on the ridge between Florence Peak and Peak 12,323 to the south. There is a short cliff band to negotiate below the saddle with several breaks. Any break will work. The left side (north) of the cliffband is easy class 3. The right side looked a little harder. Once at the saddle area, follow the south ridge of Florence Peak to the upper summit area. Near the top, traverse left to the west ridge and follow it a short distance to the summit. It may be possible to stay on the south ridge all the way to the top. ( it appeared to be class 4-5).  I didn't explore that option.      

Essential Gear

A GPS unit may be helpful to relocate the access point if downclimbing the cliffband.

External Links

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