Page Type: | Route |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 40.61940°N / 111.7874°W |
Route Type: | Trad - Single/Multiptich |
Time Required: | Less than two hours |
Difficulty: | 5.5-5.10a |
About a quarter mile up you can see the Dead Snag wall. Follow a climbers trail right (west) down to the stream. Cross the stream and pick your way over to the wall.
Alternative Approach: Some people park in the last pullout before the one mentioned above, and scramble up a small creekbed directly to the base of the wall.
Descents: From the top of the routes, follow a ledge system south. At a grove of trees are rap anchors. You can descend from here via 2 80' and a 60' rapp, or continue along the class 3 ledge system to a single 60' rapp.
Dead Snag is a large east facing wall of quartzite near the mouth of Stairs Gulch. It offers a variety of moderate grade trad multi-pitch routes, which ascend clean crack systems. Still, since the rock is quartzite, face climbing using square holds predominates.
|
Pitch #1: Head up just left of the arete and climb over a roof (5.6). Stay near the arete and a belay ledge is reached beneath another roof. From here if you climb just right of the roof you are doing the Jig's Up Route (5.6)
Pitch #2: To continue on Steort's Ridge, climb back over to the arete and climb just left of the arete. Another belay ledge directly on the arete is reached after bypassing a smooth slab to the left.
Pitch #3: This last pitch climbs right on the arete straight to the top. Part of the pitch is runout, with a lone bolt in the middle of some smooth quartzite climbing for protection. At the top an anchor can be made on the trees.