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4620 Hits
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72.08% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.74990°N / 12.76410°E |
Route Type:
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Scramble |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Medium Difficult ferrata |
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Approach
The ferrata starts from Zochenpass between Weittalspitze and Simonskopf and can be reached from two sides (for the trailheads compare the "Getting There" Section of the main page.
Follow the Wildensendertal to the north until it bends eastwards. Here the trail starts climbing the southern slopes of the Lienz Dolomites South Ridge. Once over the timberline the trail winds along beautiful narrow ledges (not very exposed) towards Zochenpass. The last 200m of altitude get less and less steep and from the pass you can enjoy the view towards the northern Lienz Dolomites (Spitzkofel, Gamswiesenspitzen) before starting on the ferrata.
Follow Egerländerweg in the direction of Karlsbader Hütte. Either follow the forest road or take the shortcutting hiking trail. To the left you can see the Gamswiesenspitzen Group and once you are below Kleine Gamswiesenspitze (the third of four summits from the north) a trail leaves for the Kerschbaumer Törl Pass. It ascends very steeply to the pass, where you can get a great northeastern view of Weittalspitze. Cross over to Zochenpass along a slope traverse.
Route Description
- Start altitude: 1262m (Tuffbad) / 1616m Lienzer Dolomiten Hütte
- Summit altitude: 2539m
- Prevailing exposition: S and E (Tuffbad) / N and E (Lienzer Dolomiten Hütte)
- Type: 30min over forest roads, 2h(S) / 2h 30min (N) over paths, 1h 30min summit ferrata
- Protection: marked with cables on the ferrata
From Zochenpass follow the Weittalspitze East ridge. The trail is secured with cables and keeps switching back and forth from the northern to the southern side of the ridge. There are several unsecured hiking sections in between the climbing ones. The crux is at the beginning of the summit block: a 25m wall has to be climbed. This part is secured by cables and a couple of iron clamps.
From here on the terrain gets tricky - limestone rock, covered with gravel and debris. It is here that you certainly should put on a helmet. The last impediment before the summit is a narrow chimney and from here on the climb is easy. Enjoy the views.
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Essential Gear
I would recommend a ferrata set (harness, two short ropes and biners) for self securing. On crowded days you must have a helmet!