Ansley's Way-- 5.6, 2 Pitches

Overview

Ansley's Way is a two-pitch 5.6 sport route. In all, it's about 160', so you could do this with a single 60 if you have enough draws.

This is a great route for new leaders, as the bolts are pretty closely spaced and the climbing is mostly very easy. In fact, I'm not sure where the 5.6 was; I solo-led this with an 80m rope and instead of doing two raps to get back down, I did one and just downclimbed the last 30'.

Because this route follows an arete much of the way, there are great views; this page's primary image shows one of the views from the top.

Getting There

Follow signs or Google Maps to Mount Helena City Park. From the parking lot, pick up the main trail leaving it, which is the 1906 Trail and leads you to the crags. The crags begin just after you pass the cave at Devil's Kitchen. Expect a moderately strenuous hike of 20-30 minutes. After passing the Devil's Kitchen cave, look for a trail heading up and left through scree shortly after the limestone wall on your left meets the trail.

Ansley's Way is the first route on the left.

Route Description

P1-- 8 bolts and then anchors.

P2-- I forgot to note how many bolts there were, but I think it was 6. Along the way, you will find a spooky-looking anchor of chains and pitons. This is not the top anchor; keep going.

Make two rappels to descend, or walk across the top and go down a gully at the other end of Sunset Slab.

Essential Gear

8-10 quickdraws, whatever you like for bolted anchors, and at least a 50m rope. Because some of the other routes here require a 60 to lower from the anchors, you really should have a 60 or longer.