Overview
Very good granit, (good grip and cracks, very solid). Easy to very difficult sport and free climbing routes. In cold wet winters it is possible to find excellent gullies and mixed routes. Easy access as it is possible to park car near the peak, abseil/ walk down and climbing back. It is a small mountain where you can create very difficult routes that possibly now one have climb before.
Getting There
Go to Covilhã (City in the Eastern side of Serra da Estrela) then follow direction to Torre (the highest point in Portugal, 1997 m). Pass by Penhas da Saude, and go to the roundabout in Piornos, just after the "Centro de LImpeza". Here turn Right to go to the base of Cantaro Magro, called Covão d 'Ametade (camping site) or turn Left to go to the the road that pass next to the summit. If you pass by another roundabout near Torre you drove too much! Go to google earth and search coordinates (N 40 19 38.50, W 7 35 58.26.
Red Tape
Cantaro Magro is located inside a conservation area with several botanic endemic species. Avoid walk outside paths/trails... Although Covão D'Ametade present BBQ areas, please avoid light fires as in summer fires can easily propagate.
When To Climb
Rock climbing from March to October. Ice climbing in very special winter days. Winter climbing, such as gullies with snow and mixed climbing from December to February. Winter climbing when weather forecast reports bad weather is not advised, unless you are familiar with the area. Usually during these days it is not possible to pass the village of Penhas da Saude. Zero visibility in the top plateau surrounded by steep valley already resulted in several accident some of them fatal!
Camping
Free camping site at Covão d'Ametade.
Mountain Conditions
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Serra-da-Estrela.html
http://www.turistrela.pt/inverno/estancia/webcam.asp
http://wwwa.accuweather.com/index-world-forecast.asp?zipcode=penhas+da+saude&partner=accuweather
Useful Links
http://rppd.blogspot.com/